What side plates or frames would you want made that would get everyone on board

[Jigtosser]

Put me down for the Squidder/Jigmaster Magnum sideplates.
I missed the boat/ never made the dock when they were available.
Was raising the Family in those days...


G fish, they never made a frame for a TLD 15, at least never saw one.
TLD 20,30,50 2spds
Tiburon and Willfish both made frames, Tib stopped some time ago. Willfish also stopped, but a new owner is going to build them again, the 20 and the 30. The 50 frame will come later...
I don't know if they are available yet???
I also think if someone made a TLD 10/15 frame, a lot of very good old reels would be fished again.
I have fished the Avets, Accurates, Tyrnos, Talicas, but to honest, I still like the TLDs better in the smaller sizes.

Danny 

[fishforfun]

Any narrow magnums and 114hnn would be my pick 

[boon]

mikey and boon.
I just want to thank you guys to agree and disagree without throwing knives.
We all have our own views, and it is nice to see you two respect each others.
Hats off to you both gentleman,
Daron

Differences of view and opinion are what make an online place like this an interesting place to be As you say, nice to be able to exchange these views civilly, and the discussion here caused some introspection.

Keta, I can totally understand the satisfaction and pleasure in using something you built yourself.

My suggestion: a extra narrow frame + spool kit for the Makaira 16, single-piece frame and sideplate, thin the frame out a bit to save some weight. Ultimate super-heavy-duty jigging reel for southern hemisphere Yellowtail and Hapuka/Bass (Wreckfish).

[mikeysm]

Before Randy has a set of frames made he has to have 35 sold before hand. That's the least amount of frames before they will do it. Then there is a set up cost and 50% of the cost up front before they start. So he is putting up his own money to make it happen. He has to sell quite a few to make a profit. He does allot of work before they start. You have to give it to him for his effort so we can enjoy a new frame from tiburon.

Mike

[Tightlines667]

mikey and boon.
I just want to thank you guys to agree and disagree without throwing knives.
We all have our own views, and it is nice to see you two respect each others.
Hats off to you both gentleman,
Daron

Differences of view and opinion are what make an online place like this an interesting place to be As you say, nice to be able to exchange these views civilly, and the discussion here caused some introspection.

Keta, I can totally understand the satisfaction and pleasure in using something you built yourself.

My suggestion: a extra narrow frame + spool kit for the Makaira 16, single-piece frame and sideplate, thin the frame out a bit to save some weight. Ultimate super-heavy-duty jigging reel for southern hemisphere Yellowtail and Hapuka/Bass (Wreckfish).

Hmm...
That would make for an interesting reel.

[Keta]

Before Randy has a set of frames made he has to have 35 sold before hand. That's the least amount of frames before they will do it. Then there is a set up cost and 50% of the cost up front before they start. So he is putting up his own money to make it happen. He has to sell quite a few to make a profit. He does allot of work before they start. You have to give it to him for his effort so we can enjoy a new frame from tiburon.

Mike

When I request something I start setting aside $ and try to be one of the first to pay for it.  Having inventory laying around is never good.

[mikeysm]

I just wanted everyone to understand what it takes to have frames made. That its a group effort to make side plates and frames a reality. Its not easy to get that many people to want the same thing and are willing to buy them.


Mike

[ez2cdave]

Put me down for the Squidder/Jigmaster Magnum sideplates.
I missed the boat/ never made the dock when they were available.
Was raising the Family in those days...

Danny  

REMEMBER . . . The MAGNUM Squidder & Jigmaster will ALSO need special SPOOLS, since the Drive Mechanisms are from a larger reel and the Standard Spool WILL NOT WORK !

I would like the Magnum Squidders and Jigmasters, too.

ALSO, I would like to see a "Topless" 113HLW that uses a 114H Drive Mechanism ( increase the width from 3" to 3.5", too )  . . . a "stretched" MAGNUM 113HLW !

My plan would be to use a double-dogged 114H setup in there . . . It would be a BEAST !

PLEASE make the REEL FEET longer and wider than the Old Accurate and Tuburon frames . . . Those "stubby" little feet NEVER properly fit the hoods on larger reel seats !

Tight Lines !

[mhc]

The MAGNUM Squidder & Jigmaster will ALSO need special SPOOLS, since the Drive Mechanisms are from a larger reel .......

I don't have one to check, but the stock squidder spools should work in a magnum squidder - the 13-140 and 13-500 pinions are the same dimensions and tooth patern, the jigmaster pinion is recessed a bit at one end to accept the bushing. I'm pretty sure a 13-140 or 13-500 pinion will work with a 5-500 main gear in a magnum squidder with a stock spool. I could be wrong though  

Like Dave said the jigmaster magnum with 113H gear set needs a custom spool.

Mike

[mikeysm]

I own a squidder magnum. It requires a special spool to work. A 113 magnum the gear ratio wouhd be quite low because of the spool size. More of a winch reel with slow retrive .

Mike

[mhc]

I own a squidder magnum. It requires a special spool to work.

I stand corrected   and keen to learn. What is different about the magnum squidder spools Mike - is it the shaft length at either end? I'm thinking maybe the accurate magnum plates might not be as thick or wide as the stock squidder plates.

Mike

[mikeysm]

The shaft is larger and maybe longer I'm not sure. I haven't had it apart in a long time. But I do know that you can't use a stock squidder spool.

[thorhammer]

over the years I've come to own three or four TLD's, normally as parts of other deals I've done. i fished others' on their boats, but was never impressed with the overall quality vs. Penn GLS. Now, if plates and frames come available, all of a sudden you have my attention. It occurred to me that a red one with the red trim on the donor pieces might be pretty sharp, especially with matching Lou  swirled knobs.

echo above sentiments...if all of us had the same vision, we'd all be fishing the  same 113's on ugly sticks with no upgraded anything, now wouldn't we? Great civil discourse...something lacking in the world in general.

[RUSTY OLD COLT]

I would love to see 3/0 penn senator side plates or newell 220 side plates made

[jurelometer]

I own a squidder magnum. It requires a special spool to work.

I stand corrected   and keen to learn. What is different about the magnum squidder spools Mike - is it the shaft length at either end? I'm thinking maybe the accurate magnum plates might not be as thick or wide as the stock squidder plates.

Mike

Here is why the spools have to be different: 

1. On a typical classic penn conventional,  the lip of the spool extends over the bridge plate.   Switching to a bigger/stronger gear set means the bridge plate has to get wider, so it will no longer fit under the spool.   On "magum" style conversions,  the bridge plate is moved past the spool, and the spool spindle is extended still be able to reach the pinion and bearing cup.    Moving the bridge out from under the spool also  allows for the use of an existing bridge plate assembly from a larger reel.

2.    In order to be compatible with an existing gear set from a larger reel, the spindle  dimensions are  increased to accomodate the new pinion.

I was playing around with the idea of a poor-man's magnum kit which would consist of a ONLY  a new spool and a simple adapter plate. For example, a squidmaster  kit  would allow someone to join  an existing fully assembled jigmaster right side plate  to a squidder without touching any of the internals.   Just use the one-screw disconnect and move the whole thing over.   You could even go back and forth between the squidmaster and standard jigmaster without any tools.   The adaptor plate is a very simple part that provides just the right amount of spacing to accommodate the magnum spool spindle, and providing the  holes for the squidder frame one side, and the jigmaster sideplate ring on the other.   The spool spindle dimensions should be about the same as a standard magnum spool.   The spindle ends should have the right diameter to support the existing bearings.

I was going to prototype  some adaptor plates if/when  Alan C , Tom or another member came out with a new generation of magnum kits and spools, but then my shop closed down  . 

So, I am not not 100% positive that this will work,  but it is not too hard of a garage  project for several of you folks if all the details work out to allow using an existing magnum spool.  An adaptor plate with a spool spindle made for the job should be pretty straightforward, but it will take a bit of luck  for an existing magnum spool to work. My  biggest concern was dealing with the bearing cups if the Accurate magnum spools require  a larger bearing ID.  Probably still doable, but then it  might  require some custom bushings to have enough room in the side plates. I never got my hands on a magnum spool to measure the whole thing out.  Feel free to PM me if you want to attempt this and want more details. 

I would encourage whover is looking into designing a new full squidder magnum kit to also look into the adaptor plate option, and also to consider making after-aftermarket spools for  the Accurate kits.    When I was messing around with the adaptor idea, it was basically impossible to get an Accurate magnum spool without  buying the full reel.  There should be at least a small demand for more spools for the Accurate kits already out there.   Randy at Vintage Offshore Tackle probably has a good idea on the demand/scarcity.

The markets for franken-reel kits and new spools for magnums is probably tiny, but if somebody is already making a magnum kit, it might be possible to kill three birds with one stone.

On a completely different tack,   I think that the  primary purpose of aftermarket aluminum  sideplates is not strength/rigidity but rather dimensional accuracy and stability. The reel works better, especially casting when everything is aligned properly, and stays aligned as the sideplates get exposed to water, sunlight, or just general aging.   A stiff  frame is the key.  It keeps the sideplates from  taking significant  torsional (twisting)  load, and the remaining load is mostly directional  pulling on the bearing housing against the widest dimension of the sideplate.  I ran some load simulation software on a jigmaster type reel,  and as long as the frame was stiff enough, a properly designed sideplate out of reinforced nylon (AKA "graphite"), or even maple was doing just fine at the point where the spindle would start to permanently deform (bend).  But it would be hard to make a sideplate out of these materials that would be as accurate as  machined aluminum.

I'm not a mechanical engineer, so take all this with a grain of salt.  The wide availability of material science information and design and simulation software means that I can try to figure this stuff out on my own.   It does not mean that I am right   


-J