Shimano Tiagra 50 WA - what needs to be done

[Gobi King]

Finally got around organizing the fishing stuff, 2 shiny new shimano tiagra  50WA are ready to be spooled with something.

Before I go about spooling them with line and start dreaming about that 500 lb hog, I have a few questions [my apologies in advance for my lack of knowledge in this area]
1. Drag - Do I need to upgrade the drag to CF, if yes, I am guessing give Dawn a call?
2. Upgrade bearings to annular bearing, if yes, which ones?

Here is my list from reading here:
1. give the entire inside a light coat of marine grease
2. lube the bearings with tsi 321 and/or repack them with marine grease
3. Set drag (have to wait for reel to get spooled first)

Danke!

[Tightlines667]

Just to make sure it the TI50WA, not the TI50A, or the TI50WLRS model?

I ask, because you may want to consider ordering a Drag Cam, and new Belleville washers from the TI50WLRS and changing these parts, and Belleville orientation to give you a steeper drag curve, with more max drag if it's not a TI50WLRS.

Here is a link to the WLRS schematic and parts page...

https://fishshop.shimano.com/vip/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=845524441848474&SKU<>sku_id=1689949372103191

Either way, just follow the tutorial we have posted here...

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1355.0

*You should be able to download a plug in for your browser that allows you to view the photobucket photos

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=22453.msg249521#msg249521





Not sure what you have for available greases/oils, but I usually use Cal's drag grease on the drag, and any parts inside the drag chamber, Penn Blue on all other metal parts (pack non spool bearings), and Penn Blue thinned with corrosion X on the 2 speed mechanism, and corrosion X on the spool bearings.  Any blue marine grease will substitute fine for Penn though.  If you Don't have any lubes, and you are only doing the one reel, you may consider ordering some Shimano grease and just use it everywhere, including the drag.  You can also use TSI instead on corrosion or reel X for an oil.

If it's an older first gen model, you may want to consider purchasing the drag tool from Shimano to help remove the threaded cooling shield.  Also, if the clicker trainer in cast bronze, consider upgrading to the newer Stainless steel one, since these were prone to failure.  

Replace any bearings with felt roughness with new ones, and consider a new clicker ratchet plate if it is excessively worn/groved/w/oblong holes, and the clicker springs (outside the head plate have also been known to break on occasion.

Let us know how it goes, or if you run into any troubles.  

John  

[Gobi King]

Definitely 50WA :-)

I have everything except for a blue marine grease, I picked up a marine grease tub from Oreillys and it is grey to blank, anyway, I am sure it will work.

I tried looking up the shimano drag removal tool but I did find one, could you please help with a link.

On the topic of bearings, is it worth switching out the bearings with angular bearings?

[Tightlines667]

Definitely 50WA :-)

I have everything except for a blue marine grease, I picked up a marine grease tub from Oreillys and it is grey to blank, anyway, I am sure it will work.

I tried looking up the shimano drag removal tool but I did find one, could you please help with a link.

On the topic of bearings, is it worth switching out the bearings with angular bearings?

You likely don't need the drag cover removal tool since your reel is not likely a first gen.  Provide the serial #, or just crack the reel for confirmation if you like.  The tool is shown right on the schematic...part TT0146

TT 0146
» TLD0230   WRENCH   US $3.62

As long as you intend to fish the reel within specs and will service it regularly, there should be no need for this likely expensive upgrade.  I am not even sure which bearing you would use here.

I typically disassemble the reel, clean and inspect all parts, then order new parts, then lube/reassemble, then test/shim/adjust as needed.

Just don't put any hydrocarbon-based lubes on the drag, or preferably within the drag chamber, as they can degrade/damage the CF over time.

John

[Gobi King]

Phew I am glad last week is done, gone, missed my connecting flight by 5 mins and it was down hill from there.

here is my serial # for one of them, I bought both on the same order:


TI-63402

Gothca, yes, I am planning on using it with the limits. I yanked the drag all the way to max and there was minimum binding when I reeled.

I did some looking on the bearing,
looks like it takes a 8x22x7 bearing, it this is a very common bearing used by skate boarders too. Given the amount I fish, I am pretty sure I will not be looking at new bearings  very soon :-)

Thanks for the part #, I found the drag tool.

Yes Sir, I am a fan of synthetic lube/grease. I ordered the yamaha marine grease, I also found peak synthetic marine grease at Pepboys, they have the 3 oz sized tubes, and in 1 lb tubs, very inexpensive.

Sounds good,
1. brush insides with marine grease
2. grease screws
3. Cals on drag

[handi2]

You will find that all 4 of the bearings are that same size. Its a very good reel that will serve you for a long time.

[Rothmar2]

....and make sure you remove the plastic piece from the right side plate that holds the drag arc stops, and get plenty of grease in under there. Salt water has a habit of getting in underneath this part, but doesn't always get out, and corrosion will take hold around the crank sleeve. Seen this plenty of times from Tiagras that were not pre-serviced prior to spooling with line. Shimano's prepping their reels from the factory is rudimentary at best.
Don't believe Shimano's ARB hype either, those bearings rust with the best of them, and factory pre-lube 99% of the time seems to be a single brush stroke their white grease. Pack the end plate bearings full of grease, and what you do with the spool bearings is up to you depending on how much free-spool you want.

Properly prepped and maintained these are adequate reels, but there are better built reels in the same price range IMO.

[Tightlines667]

....and make sure you remove the plastic piece from the right side plate that holds the drag arc stops, and get plenty of grease in under there. Salt water has a habit of getting in underneath this part, but doesn't always get out, and corrosion will take hold around the crank sleeve. Seen this plenty of times from Tiagras that were not pre-serviced prior to spooling with line. Shimano's prepping their reels from the factory is rudimentary at best.
Don't believe Shimano's ARB hype either, those bearings rust with the best of them, and factory pre-lube 99% of the time seems to be a single brush stroke their white grease. Pack the end plate bearings full of grease, and what you do with the spool bearings is up to you depending on how much free-spool you want.

Properly prepped and maintained these are adequate reels, but there are better built reels in the same price range IMO.

X2