Shimano Sidestab 2500 RE spinning reel

BT52 · March 28, 2015, 04:30:52 PM

How do you remove the rear drag assembly on this reel?

Wolli · March 28, 2015, 05:24:31 PM

remove the parts in marked sequence
start with no. 1-4, remove click spring 5, than screw out 6

Good Luck
(i reject such reels for service..... prefer Shimano spinners. they are simple to service)

BT52 · March 29, 2015, 02:58:51 PM

Thanks, just what I thought but didn't want to destroy the planner. I only service front drag spinners but told an old friend I would take a look at it for him....hate these.

Zimbass · February 20, 2018, 10:50:42 AM

I am not a spinning reel aficionado, as I prefer baitcasting gear.

Have a Sidestab Rear Drag, and confused as to how to remove the drag programmer, RD9400, or 1 on Wolli's schematic.

I've tried squeezing and tugging, huffing and puffing, and afraid to blow the house down !!

Must be a simple method, in picture form, as I'm sure that would be more explanatory.

Thanks for any and all help.

Cheers.

Terry.

philaroman · February 20, 2018, 02:53:47 PM

I'm fairly comfortable w/ original '91 Japanese Sidestab/Solstace/Symetre, but that's a completely different animal...

can't fully visualize what's going on from schematic alone, but I would guess that the drag knob (RD-9400) has a lip that bottoms out on the rear cover, before it unscrews completely... so RD 2934, 9592, 9421 need to come off, first

Tiddlerbasher · February 20, 2018, 03:26:25 PM

I avoid rear drag spinners like the plague - I just can't get on with them

philaroman · February 20, 2018, 03:54:35 PM

to be honest, I "cheat" around the rear drag headache when possible & only do a complete tear-down every 2nd or 3rd service... but mine are much more complex w/ worm-gear oscillation & Fightin'Drag lever

works out OK, if you keep 'em away from salt & sand

Zimbass · February 21, 2018, 04:16:51 AM

Thanks for the responses guys.

I managed to work out that you have to hold the rear of the drag, RD9396 (programmer B1 and B2) whilst undoing RD9400. As the programmer A loosens, you need to tighten the two part B1 and B2, then tighten A slightly, working both back and forth until the parts eventually release.

Quite a stupid idea, but, once you work it out, it's simple.

Wish I was capable at posting photos or video to show how this works. Suffice to say 2 hours of trial and error worked out !!

Cheers.

Terry.