alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Kenstix ~ older Penn 20 troubleshoot
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
September 24, 2018, 07:39:05 PM *
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Author Topic: Kenstix ~ older Penn 20 troubleshoot  (Read 2303 times)
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UKChris
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« Reply #30 on: February 25, 2018, 09:48:58 AM »

Good luck with the 20.

I've just fiddled with a couple of old-school Int 50 (honey handles and chrome bars). One has been fine with ()() belleville arrangement but the other was always not quite right. Even with the pre-set screwed right back, there was too much drag immediately you moved the lever out of free.

Popped the belleville in as ((() and all is now fine. Gives me a better drag curve than the steep (()) and fixed the spacing arrangement too. I now have a soft 'stripping drag' for letting out line when drifting for sharks or holding against  fast drift and plenty of drag available for 50lb line.

The point is don't be worried about changing the bellevilles around till you get what you want. Sometimes it may take a few goes, as with the 80STW I did a couple of years ago.

Voice of experience - make a brief note each time of the belleville arrangement and any spacers and the effect it has on the drag, freespool, any rubbing etc. or you find you go through everything more than once as you get confused over which did what!

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Kenstix
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« Reply #31 on: February 25, 2018, 04:25:09 PM »

 Thanks , UKChris  -  Received the Inter- m. Drag from Scott's this week (Donnyboat ) but have a couple of other chores to do on it, as well . After getting it back together , I will check how the drag Ramp-up seems , but I have a couple of other things to dial-in before reassembly . I am cutting some W-house Micarta right now so I have to finish some intricate Ripping for knife scales but will Return in a few of Hours with Side-plate Pics for question as well . Do these need to be knocked , Punched +/or Drilled out  ?  Any help with these Procedures would be Appreciated .  Thanks ~  Kenstix




* 2 Side Pl..jpg (139.75 KB, 779x538 - viewed 22 times.)
« Last Edit: February 26, 2018, 09:47:49 PM by Kenstix » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #32 on: February 26, 2018, 10:34:13 PM »

for the white nylon buttons. you have to remove the e-clips, then the chromed buttons. then the white nylon collars.  not sure about the bearing cup, but it is threaded in some models.  the sleeves for the clicker and handle drive shaft are pressed in and will have to be pressed out. 
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #33 on: February 26, 2018, 11:02:23 PM »

First remove the 3 flat head screws that hold the main gear retaining plate on the main gear (Make sure you use a screw driver thst fits, cause you can damage them).  Then remove the drive shaft, then the main gear, then the screws that hold the bridge, then the bridge, then the nut that holds the clicker pawl in place, then the clicker knob, then spring, then pawl (install them in reverse in the other side plate.  Then remove the c-clips on the indicators, then the indicators, and springs, fibally use a piece if wood or rubber mallet to remove the indicator cups.  Reinstall in reverse.  If they are sticky, polish the outside of the metal indicators a bit.  Reinstall everything in reverse in the other side plate. 

I think this is all covered in some of the posted tutorials.  I will be travelling for the next week or so, so hopefully Keith or someone else can help you along.

John
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Kenstix
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« Reply #34 on: March 17, 2018, 03:38:55 PM »

 will have the rest of my parts this week, so wondering if You guys Loctite Any of these Screws down ( Please check pic  Or, Howabout punchlist of screws on an international ( Interior + exterior ) to Loctite or Not to Loctite ?      p.s. , Alan the bearing cup was easy it just slides in + out with the Set Screw - retainer


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« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 01:16:39 PM by Kenstix » Logged
Tightlines666
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« Reply #35 on: March 18, 2018, 02:12:28 PM »

I would go ahead and use a drop of blue loctite on each of the 4 screws that hold the ratchet plate, metal drag plate, CF drag disc, and 3 screws that hold the main gear retainer plate.  Also, some red loctite on the hut that holds the clicker.  

We're you ever successful in changing out the clicker pawl retainer from 1 plate to the other?  

There are actually 3 different types of clicker assemblies that were available on these reels over the years.  

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/36C-50S.aspx

Oldest is not threaded w/ no retaining nut on the inside of plate (I believe it is threaded into the plate, second gen is threaded through plate, and has a retaining nut and washer threaded inside plate, latest gen has notched ears in plate and is adjustable through a knurled nut on the outside of plate.

For gen 1 and 2 (which your plates appear to be), use a piece of leather and vice grip, along with heat and penetrant to slowly unread the clicker.  It is easy to damage the chrome on the bronze here, and the aluminum may have corroded and be holding the clicker firmly.  I have replaced a few, and have upg4aded from a gen 2 to a gen 3 side plate w/an entirely new clicker assembly, but the 1 and 2 always seemed a bit troublesome.  You may be able to clamp the part in place and turn the plate itself to remove.  If you have trouble removing the old, you may want to try to find a new clicker part by contacting someone with a stock of older parts (JDL treasures? Or someone on the east coast who specializes in servicing older internationals).  You would need to find tye first gen 36-50 complete clicker assembly (no longer available from Penn or Scott's) since tye 36C-50 (with 36N parts) will not work.  The change in clicker parts always creates some problems for me since the second and 3rd gen clicker knobs, pawls, and retainers do not work on the origional gen 1 reels.  I have actually had machinist friends machine down a newer style pawl to the correct specs of a gen 1, or have tried small shims under the clicker knob to extend the hope pawl slightly when the correct part was unavailable.  I run into this problem the most in the 130H reels.

I like the 3rd gen style clickers the best, and parts are still available, so when looking for a used International II reel, try to find one with the newer adjustable clicker assembly (I Don't believe this was available on the size 20 reel?).

Here's the gen 2 and 3 for an 80STW...

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/36C-80STW.aspx

Hope that helps?

John



"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"


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« Last Edit: July 02, 2018, 10:27:25 AM by mizmo67 » Logged

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Kenstix
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« Reply #36 on: March 18, 2018, 03:32:30 PM »

Thanks John , the 1st. plate was so messed up Prior to me that I was at liberty to remove stuff Any Method I chose , with no consequence : i.e Cobalt bits around clicker and so forth . everything went fine ~ Will use best parts from the 2nd. Gen Clickers , Check pic.  I have the Parts for 1 Good assembly now  (  Note : the washer under nut is Curved like belleville - dont think visible in Pic tho

P.S. ~ I do have to admit , Penn makes Me Shake My Head at some of the Designs on these things ( So Close but So Jacked in some ways


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« Last Edit: March 18, 2018, 04:00:25 PM by Kenstix » Logged
Kenstix
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« Reply #37 on: March 21, 2018, 01:32:10 AM »

I found a pretty easy way to Remove the Locator Pin Bushings , a broken off cobalt bit with the bottom hex base worked Perfect for correct diameter ( but I oiled 1st. )  then just Push


* pinPush 01.jpg (45.26 KB, 592x444 - viewed 59 times.)
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Kenstix
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« Reply #38 on: April 15, 2018, 02:58:36 PM »

 Hi Folks ~ Does Anyone know How I can get a-hold of John Baker or His frames ?

   Thanks ~ Kenstix
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