Knots for heavy Monofilament

[bill19803]

if  you want to check  strength  of  knots    try   paulusjustfishin.com

the  data   there  is   from  actual measurements, nothing  has  been  added in  years  now   but  data is  still  good,  and  its  not  opinionated   but  factual

[Tiddlerbasher]

x2 bill - the data is still good!

[Benni3]

Yeah. Any line I can't double-up before tying is heavy mono. >or= to 40lb. I use an improved clinch--- 2 loops around the hook/lure eye, then there's a 1/2 granny in the end a the line in case it still slips. Last part important, 'cause I don't tighten to the point of creasing the mono., let it tighten by itself, it ain't gonna come undone.
Also, max. of 4 twists can reduce creasing

x2,,,,that's how I do my 8lb and 3lb fly line 3 times stronger 

[MarkT]

I don't like the Palomar. For lighter line I still like/use the improved clinch. I like the San Diego for lures and ringed hooks. It's what we were using for big tuna last week in Puerto Vallarta. The Trilene is good for heavier line and is pretty easy to tie correctly. I caught a cow using the Springer the first time I tried it, it's that easy to get right. I don't know that I'd use it for 40#. The uni is easy and good, that's why it's the UNIversal knot.  Use 5 wraps for 40# and 4 for 80-130#. As always, the best knot to tie is the knot you tie best.

[boon]

if  you want to check  strength  of  knots    try   paulusjustfishin.com

the  data   there  is   from  actual measurements, nothing  has  been  added in  years  now   but  data is  still  good,  and  its  not  opinionated   but  factual

The knot data there is a mess, he has the FG breaking at some stupidly low number where other people who have tested it under IGFA conditions have found it a lot better.

[Three se7ens]

if  you want to check  strength  of  knots    try   paulusjustfishin.com

the  data   there  is   from  actual measurements, nothing  has  been  added in  years  now   but  data is  still  good,  and  its  not  opinionated   but  factual

The knot data there is a mess, he has the FG breaking at some stupidly low number where other people who have tested it under IGFA conditions have found it a lot better.

The FG is an easy knot to tie, but not easy to tie right.  A poorly done FG wont hold hardly any weight, but a well done one will not break at the knot. 

[Reel Beaker]

Yeah. Any line I can't double-up before tying is heavy mono. >or= to 40lb. I use an improved clinch--- 2 loops around the hook/lure eye, then there's a 1/2 granny in the end a the line in case it still slips. Last part important, 'cause I don't tighten to the point of creasing the mono., let it tighten by itself, it ain't gonna come undone.
Also, max. of 4 twists can reduce creasing

Would you consider these twp lines poorly tied? Creasing-->Pigtails?

https://imgur.com/a/KWrgN

https://imgur.com/a/H1o6Q

[Gfish]

It looka like there's a slight crease in the line. Do you think it'ed be enough to cut down on your lb. test? My guess is, if the line gets friction heated enough while being creased,  it'll negitively impact it's strength. Best to test. Repeated tests witha scale might reveal the answer.

I've lost some nice keeper/eaters at,  and just above the knot.

[Benni3]

It looka like there's a slight crease in the line. Do you think it'ed be enough to cut down on your lb. test? My guess is, if the line gets friction heated enough while being creased,  it'll negitively impact it's strength. Best to test. Repeated tests witha scale might reveal the answer.

I've lost some nice keeper/eaters at and just above the knot.

this fly fisherman expert at cabeles said spit on you knots before tightening  but it works

[Reel Beaker]

It looka like there's a slight crease in the line. Do you think it'ed be enough to cut down on your lb. test? My guess is, if the line gets friction heated enough while being creased,  it'll negitively impact it's strength. Best to test. Repeated tests witha scale might reveal the answer.

I've lost some nice keeper/eaters at and just above the knot.

Unfortunately that is 30 lb line. Dont think i can get any lower than that...... It hurts when you arent good at tying knots. If practice makes perfect, a good knot is long overdue.

[Gfish]

Gonna suggest you use just enough line to finish without havin to trim any, or even pull more than 1/4 in. or so to chinch.  For me, this'ed mean 3-4 twists, then just barely get the end through the bottom(double looped around the hook/swivel/lure -eye), so the granny knot is up against the double loop, the whole clinch knot somewhat loose.

[Reel Beaker]

Been practicing tying more knots, snelling hooks and this is what i have concluded...

Hooks have an "ideal" line diameter to use while snelling.... once you exceed this diameter, it becomes really hard to snell the hook properly w/o getting "pigtails" and kinks. This is due to the line rubbing against the inside of the hook eye while pulling the standing line. So either you switch to a larger hook, or you use high tensile, low diameter line to tie your rigs. So forget about snelling high poundage lines to small/medium size hooks... it isnt going to work well anyway....

For tying heavy heavy mono knots, you need to snug the knot and make sure it forms properly before the final draw on the standing line. For light mono it is not a prob as the knots forms readily. For heavy mono, it becomes a large problem as there is too much friction involved and applying too much pressure on your line, stretches it, and brings it beyond its elasticity point, forming "pigtails" as we call it. When tying knots, you need to know the "point of no return" of your class/test line. Unless you have some kind of super lube, it is best to snug the knot by hand, instead of snugging it by pulling the standing/tag end. But of course you need prior knowledge of the knot, how it forms and what it should look like if you use this method.

Do you guys agree on what i said or is it back to the drawing board again?

[Gfish]

Yeah, good points.
Nothin worse when fishin and gettin bit, than a combo. of losin an expensive rig/lure, thinkin about a fish havin to deal with a hook(s) still in it's mouth, then havin to retie another rig.
I launch my yak with 5 rigged poles and always answer the beach people's questions 'bout it: "It's too hard out there to change to a diffrent rig and tie a good knot, best for me to rig-up at home and deal with the excess rod thing out there, as best I can".
Not braggin, but I can't remember the last time I bust off a rig at the knot. Last time fishin I bent a hook ona jig gettin it back offa the reef, and pulled another one oudda a sea turtle's shell under a LOTS a strain. Then there's those 2 big 'uns that shredded my leader on the reef and probably ended up with swimbaits hangin out their mouths(ouch!) and some line... Alright I am braggin. Sounds like ya got it, or your gettin it down, though.

[Swami805]

Seems reasonable. Alot of it is hair splitting tying knots. Pick a few knots, learn to tie them correctly and you should be fine. I've been tieing the same knots forever and know I get them right. I'm sure there's better knots out there but I'm too lazy to re-invent the wheel. That's just me.
I snell hooks too but have never done it with heavy line and normally on octopus hooks with offset eyes or those tiny trout hook with no eye. If you watch it closely as you snell it it's a thing of beauty while you cinch it as the wraps come tight. If it's not looking right cut it off and start over. Same with the San Diego jam, if it's not right you'll see it's not cinching right.

[Rivverrat]

I have found the same thing regarding the FG.
The FG & RP being 2 knots where the line & not the knot breaks when testing using Ande line. Many who claim their knots test out stronger than the line they are using are unaware of the actual break strength of the used.