Where to find part for 2052dc?

[JNG3]

Thanks for posting those Fred. Technology is not my strong point.

[Midway Tommy]

I got to thinking about Mike's epoxy idea and I'm pretty sure I figured out a fix. The shaft has grooves that will hold JB Weld but you could also file a couple more rough areas just in case. I happened to have a McDonald's straw and believe it or not it is a perfect fit over the original plastic bushing. So here's the idea.

Cut off the plastic bushing like I suggested earlier. Below is an example using one of your pics. Use the straw as a JB Weld form and cut it to the appropriate length. Slip it over whats left on the bushing (you could add a small pin into the existing plastic on both sides to help bind the two together). Center the straw form on the shaft & fill it with JB Weld to the old bushing length. Wait a couple of days until the JB Weld has set hard, cut the form off & file or sand the two flat areas to the correct size & depth. On a UL like this, it should last a lifetime.   

[mo65]

   I was thinking first...before any cutting...just spread that crack with a thin utensil and blast it clean. Then cram some 2-part epoxy into the crack...pinch it tight...and tape it off until it's well set. Tommy said the magic words..."on an ultralight it should last a lifetime". The only way you'll bust it again would be to screw that drag knob in as hard as it was when you got it. If by chance this doesn't work, I'm positive Tommy's procedure would.

[JNG3]

Well I finally got all the old petrified grease cleaned out of it last night. No evidence that this reel was ever used. No wear of any kind anywhere. So someone must have at some point when looking at it years ago cranked the drag down as tight as it would go and years of this pressure split the bushing. Greased all moving parts, reassembled and it is ready for business. Or at least until the bushing splits completely in half. I'm going to explore either repairing the existing bushing or finding an older mainshaft with a metal ratchet and bushing. However this is why I ALWAYS back the drags off all my reels when I'm not using them. Not good to leave drags tight for long periods of time.

[mo65]

So someone must have at some point when looking at it years ago cranked the drag down as tight as it would go and years of this pressure split the bushing.

   I just restored a Penn 430ss and had a similar experience. A previous user had torqued the drag knob down and busted it. While searching for a replacement I learned these drag knobs are busted often, and I was perplexed, how could such a tiny reel need the drag knob so tight? In this particular part's case, I discovered that the drag spring underneath it had been installed upside down. This puts a bind on the drag knob...bet it happens all the time...hence all the busted drag knobs!
   I guess that's a long winded way to say I agree with JNG3, user error busts plastic. Maybe we should call steel parts "idiotproof" instead of "bulletproof". All in all...that is a dandy little reel you have there JNG3...and I'm sure you'll either find a replacement part or fix the cracked one. I'm betting under normal fishing conditions it may work just fine as is.

[happyhooker]

Even if the JB Weld idea isn't tried on this reel, the basic technique should be kept in mind for future possibilities.

Frank

[foakes]

I think the repair would work very well, as Tommy, HH, and Mike point out...

However, I will be looking through bins today for the shaft you need, Jim...

If I cannot find one, I will send you a metal complete shaft and arbor from a restore I did about 2 months ago.  The old 2052 is just apart, I already have one completed for personal use, and there are a few hundred projects in front of this little guy.

This example should be the poster child for acquiring reels that have plastic parts in places where they should be metal.  Some could say — well, the spool is plastic — and the metal arbor gouges the spool — but that is another story.  The bottom line is: manufacturers used plastic because it was cheaper to produce a part — and their excuse to anglers was that "the use of composites reduces weight, and results in better handling, no corrosion, and less fatigue".  Give me a break, it is an 8 ounce reel!  It all boils down to putting profit ahead of engineering pride.

Just my personal opinions...

Best,

Fred

[mo65]

I will send you a metal complete shaft and arbor from a restore I did about 2 months ago.

   How many times have I seen Fred come to the rescue like this? I don't have enough fingers and toes to add it up. Way to go Fred...and enjoy that reel Jim!

[Gfish]

Agree with Fred's "poster child" opinion. Advantages of various types a plastic in reels are: no corrosion and lighter weight---worth it? IMO no, not in the long run. Indeed, plastic has it's advantageous uses, but not in reels. I'll take steel, aluminum and rubber any day, along with the extra weight.
Now, if only I can find out which reels are hidin plastic parts that receive alotta pressure/friction, that aren't teflon or delrin washers....and not buy 'em!

[JNG3]

Once again Fred I am floored by your generous offer. Thank you. And thanks to all who have offered their advice and suggestions. I really mean that!

[foakes]

Please PM or email me your full mailing address, Jim —

I will get it off Monday.

Best,

Fred

[Chuck750ss]

So someone must have at some point when looking at it years ago cranked the drag down as tight as it would go and years of this pressure split the bushing.

   I just restored a Penn 430ss and had a similar experience. A previous user had torqued the drag knob down and busted it. While searching for a replacement I learned these drag knobs are busted often, and I was perplexed, how could such a tiny reel need the drag knob so tight? In this particular part's case, I discovered that the drag spring underneath it had been installed upside down. This puts a bind on the drag knob...bet it happens all the time...hence all the busted drag knobs!
   I guess that's a long winded way to say I agree with JNG3, user error busts plastic. Maybe we should call steel parts "idiotproof" instead of "bulletproof". All in all...that is a dandy little reel you have there JNG3...and I'm sure you'll either find a replacement part or fix the cracked one. I'm betting under normal fishing conditions it may work just fine as is.

I did that to my 420ss right after I got it. Realized what I did immediately. If I could have kicked myself in the rear end, I would have at that time! Epoxy back together, no real problem.

[Gfish]

Thinkin 'bout it, when I snag-up and can't finesse it free, I do torque down the drag gettin ready to break the line. Gotta change my habit from doin that, to just grabbin the  spool, holdin on and pullin.
Very artistic, "outta the box thinkin" way to fix it Tommy.

[Midway Tommy]

Thanks, Greg.

I've never really had much luck with epoxy bonding to plastic, even the specialized plastic epoxies. Seems like they adhere for a little while & then separate from the plastic when stressed.

[festus]

I'm scratching my head wondering why Shakespeare would insert a plastic part right there instead of metal knowing it could break with all the success of their earlier 2052......and lest not forget this gives me another opportunity to rant about the DAM plastic ratchet wheel on the Quick 550N.