ROD REPAIR ON OLD BAITCAST ROD

[happyhooker]

Lookin' good--seeing lots of promise!

Frank

[steelfish]

IMO no need to wait 2 weeks , 3 days is enough just dont use lot of presure while winding the thread

[oldmanjoe]

IMO no need to wait 2 weeks , 3 days is enough just dont use lot of presure while winding the thread

I would wait 2 weeks going on my past experience .    Rust-oleum  paint is most likely a enamel paint ,they take longer to cure .
   You can test it with your finger nail or a test wrap.       I will put up a picture of a wrap that i did , all was fine when i put it on .
  Day later poof this happen ..   " possible a soft spot from a little more paint than the rest of the rod ."

    Second time it happened to me i was  able to clean the paint between the threads , but it had that open look , because of sink it .      Joe

[Swami805]

The only ones I paint are Harnells that I restore. Less is more,just enough to get it back to black. I do a light sanding (600-1200 grit) just around any spots I missed on the first pass The thicker the paint the more material to dig into. Lighter colors usually require more coats to get good coverage. I'll let it sit for a week or more after painting.

[droppedit]

I've painted a number of blanks and let dry for at least a week before wrapping. I'll then squeegee a finish over the blank before wrapping. I use to use Aftcote rod finish for the finish as it took about a week to cure but hardened nice to allow wrapping and pushing threads without digging into the finish.
U-40 permagloss works well or even minwax polyurethane but that might take a couple of coats. I modify my squeegee process from the one in the picture but it is more or less the same idea. I take a film canister (old 35 mm in the plastic can) cut off the bottom and cut a large hole out of the ring on the top. For a membrane I'll use Terra-band (any medical supply store will have it). The smaller the hole the better and to slide the cup down the blank a light wipe of alcohol will lube it up. Then put in the finish and slowly slide the cup up the blank and put it on the drying bench. I have a rebuild of my own I'll be doing soon and see if I can get my wife to do a video and post it. Pretty easy.

Dave

[steelfish]

I do a light sanding (600-1200 grit) just around any spots I missed on the first pass The thicker the paint the more material to dig into. Lighter colors usually require more coats to get good coverage. I'll let it sit for a week or more after painting.

I do pretty much the same thing, I think I wait just 3 days or 4 max but thats because I live in a dry climate with desert hight temps, so sprayed can paint cure faster, a week period is pretty acceptable, rod building is never about rushing a process.

[oldmanjoe]

I do a light sanding (600-1200 grit) just around any spots I missed on the first pass The thicker the paint the more material to dig into. Lighter colors usually require more coats to get good coverage. I'll let it sit for a week or more after painting.

I do pretty much the same thing, I think I wait just 3 days or 4 max but thats because I live in a dry climate with desert hight temps, so sprayed can paint cure faster, a week period is pretty acceptable, rod building is never about rushing a process.

Good point on climate  , I am 70% plus in humidity most days .             rod building is never about rushing a process.                Maybe after the second one you do , we are kids on Christmas morning for the first 2   .      joe

[Swami805]

I've tried using rod finish for coating the blank even going as far as rubbing it on very thin with my finger. It took awhile but evenually it started flaking off. If you want a clear finish CPXTRA is the way to go and it looks almost like a factory finish. It will disolve paint though so don't try that. Read the directions carefully as it drys and is unworkable pretty quickly, It also evaporates quickly. One draw back is once the bottle is opened whats left will dry up inside. The bottles are small and it doesn't cost too much. Voodoo has several other handy rod building products, The D2 diamond finish is a good product too.
That film canister is a great idea, thanks for posting that.

[Eddie Hernandez]

Thank you all for the info very much appreciated, I deff going to check out the voodoo website. I can't wait to start rod wrapping I have all the thread picked out!

[Eddie Hernandez]

Finally finished repairing this rod, it deff wont win any beauty contest but I deff learned a lot about the rod  building process messing around with it. Even attempted a feather inlay in place of a butt wrap.

[oldmanjoe]

     I think you did a good job .      You can still add thread to your guide wraps to make trim bands.

[Fishy247]

That feather looks SWEET! I really like how it turned out. How did you get it on there? Lay it on the first layer of clear coat?

[Eddie Hernandez]

One of the most effective ways to add a genuinely unique look to your own custom built rod is to personalize it with feather inlays. This is a very simple process, and once you have mastered the basic skills of inlaying a single feather, you will be well on your way to creating your own feather weaves and designs. The following step by step photos and accompanying language should help you master the feather inlay process. 
1. Preparing the blank for the inlay is important, as the blank surface may have factory release agents, hand oils, or any variety of contaminants not compatible with epoxies. Thoroughly wipe the blank down with isopropyl alcohol prior to doing any inlays or thread work. No additional preparation is required. 
2. For a number of reasons, the choice of feather is also very important. For the sake of 
simplicity in explaining the inlay process, I will use a single Jungle Cock Eye feather. They are readily available from most well stocked fly shops in packets of 10 or 12. They will be free of natural oils, and the quality is generally quite good for a reasonable price. 
3. I will always use an acrylic based color preservative to set the feathers on the blank prior to epoxy. I prefer to use Guderod 811 color preservative for the following reasons : A. It is crystal clear from the bottle. This allows easy viewing of the feather while placing it on the blank. B. The Guderod can be cut with Isopropyl alcohol to thin it. The thinned C.P. allows full saturation of the feather, and minimizes trapped ah" within the feather's fibers. (This truly becomes an issue when weaving multiple layers of feathers.) I will generally cut my Guderod with approximately 25% to 30% Iso. This will give it a near water hike consistency, perfect for fully penetrating the feather fibers. The Iso. also allows a relatively rapid, but manageable working and curing tune for the C.P. The Guderod will be cured and ready to epoxy within 4 hours air drying time at room temperatures. C. If for some reason, you do not like the look of your feather inlay after curing, you can easily remove it by re-wetting the entire inlay with straight Iso., wipe it clean, and re-do it. No worries ! 
4. I will completely saturate the feather in the C.P. prior to placing it on the blank. To do this, I will fill the bottom of a Tablespoon size stainless steel measuring spoon with the Guderod. Dip the entire length of the feather in the C.P., and pick it up for placement utilizing a small stiff bristled hobby brush. The feather is placed on the blank to it's approximate final location, and then adjusted to it's final location by nudging it into place with the bristles of the brush. In order to adjust each feather filament into it's proper location, you may have to flood the entire feather, and actually float the fibers into their best location. Once you have the feather placed and arranged exactly where you want it, leave it alone, and set the rod section on a horizontal plane and allow to dry. The C.P. will evaporate, and leave the feather perfectly arranged as placed. To center the feather correctly on the blank, mount the reel. With the reel seated in place, it will automatically locate the blanks center radius. 
5. After the inlay is dry, you are ready for your first coat of epoxy coverage. Like the C.P., the epoxy should be applied in such a manner that it will flood the entire inlay. 

Pg 2 

a stiff bristled hobby brush. With the rod turning, place the brush bristles against the rod at the top of the inlay, and evenly progress down the inlay. The excess epoxy will accumulate, and occasionally drop from the brush as you progress. Leave just enough epoxy behind to very thinly cover the inlay. 'Hie feather (especially multiple feathers) will generate lots of bubbles in your epoxy. Leaving the first coat of epoxy coverage very thin will minimize this problem, but some will appear never the less. Now is the time to remove them. This can be done by lightly brushing the inlay with the grain as it turns. For this, I will use the same type of hobby brush as mentioned earlier. Watch the inlay for a few minutes, if more bubbles appear, brush it again with the grain.. .Repeat as needed. Allow the epoxy covered inlay to turn and dry for 24 hours, and re-coat as needed. Following coats will not generate nearly as many bubbles. The heavier feather weaves will often require 3 or 4 coats of coverage, a single feather will generally require only 2 coats. 
6. The inlay can be placed directly to the blank, or it can be applied to a thread background. I will often background the inlay with an opaque thread color that will enhance the color scheme of the feathers. The feathers are placed directly onto the thread, and covered with C.P. in the described fashion, making sure that all of the thread is FULLY saturated as well. This may require two coats of C.P. coverage over the entire inlay and thread area. With the Guderod mixture as described, you will need to wait at least 4 hours between coats. 
if you follow these recommendations carefully, 1 absolutely guarantee that you will be on your way to creating your own beautiful feather inlays. 1 have used this process to inlay literally hundreds of rods. 
As with all things within the crafts, practice make perfect... Practice, Practice, Practice I Experiment with various feathers, and thread combinations. Be creative, and most importantly: Have Fun II! 
If you find that you may require moral support, feel free to contact me. I am usually found in my shop building rods, if not... Fm out fishing! 
Bob Meiser.. .R.B. Meiser Fly Rods

[Reel 224]

Nice setup and very nice repair.

Joe

[happyhooker]

Quite an experience & results look good.

Frank