alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Daiwa Coastal 153HL teardown attempt - Questions inside
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
August 19, 2018, 01:43:29 AM *
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Author Topic: Daiwa Coastal 153HL teardown attempt - Questions inside  (Read 576 times)
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bpm2000
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« on: May 21, 2018, 07:20:07 PM »

Hey yall

Getting started with my first attempt at servicing with an old Daiwa 153HL Coastal which has been sitting locked up and cast aside for a while. 
http://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/baitcasting/CL153HL.pdf



I followed fishmeluck's guide and have broken it down partially but am at a stopping point here to ask some questions.

First issue that I have is that parts 48,49,50 are all stuck together.  This piece was completely frozen in place - maybe why the handle wouldn't turn at all?  I sprayed a little Corrosion X at the base of it and let it soak for a bit, and now I can get it to spin around but the parts are all still inside the hole and not budging thus far. 

-These pieces should come out yes?

-Just more time with a solvent/degreaser or should I put some elbow grease on it instead?  I am afraid of breaking/bending something inside the reel so I am taking a real conservative approach to this session.

-How corroded does a bearing need to be to warrant replacing?  Any good sources for finding a replacement that will fit this reel?

-Should part 76 also be removable from the hole it is sitting in?  Currently feels pretty stuck, but not sure I should even be taking it out at all...



-Same questions for part 54, 55.  Is that post/thumbscrew supposed to be completely removable?  Do I remove part 54 to do so?  Should I just leave it in and clean it with it still attached to the reel instead?

-I have Corrosion X, 99% Iso, and Simple Green.  Are any of these recommended over another for cleaning the Drag Washers?  Definitely not felt - a stiffer type of washer (carbontex?).


-Is there a "general" guide for tackling this portion without a step-by-step?  There are a ton of little springs and stuff that look like they want to get lost and be a difficult time putting back together, but I also want to get the stuff off so I can get some grease on the surface under all of that...


Thank you for looking!



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alantani
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« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2018, 07:51:01 PM »

you're going to have to tap out the pinion gear.  that has to come out.  then replace any bearings that are the least bit rough.  don't  bother trying to clean them. 

you can leave the anti-reverse roller bearing where it is.  do relube it with corrosion x or a similar light oil. 

the long side plate screw can stay in place. 

don't clean the drag washers.  they have to be replace with greased carbon fiber.  hopefully smoothdrag.com will have a replacement for you. 

good luck!!!!!
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bpm2000
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« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2018, 12:17:59 PM »

Got new drags (smooothdrag carbontex) and bearings (EZO) on the way... If I'm going to do this I'll do it right!  Also have Alan's bearing packer coming as well.

Appreciate the guidance.
« Last Edit: May 26, 2018, 04:29:49 PM by bpm2000 » Logged
bpm2000
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« Reply #3 on: May 26, 2018, 04:28:23 PM »

I've decided to go for the full teardown/service/reassembly.  Unfortunately I've hit a bit of a roadblock.


(photo pre-stripped)

I've halfway stripped out these two little phillips screws holding down the driveshaft retainer.  Apparently the bit I had for this was too deep - guessing these are JIS, but now any attempt with assorted bits seem to be taking it to the point of no return.  I've tried some paslode and corrosion-x to attempt to loosen as well as the rubber band trick no to avail.  

I have some precision screw extractors coming in the mail so hopefully that will work because I'm out of ideas after that.  Not a whole lot of room to play with if needing to cut a slot on these recessed screws.  Stay tuned...

« Last Edit: May 26, 2018, 04:40:57 PM by bpm2000 » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2018, 04:41:05 PM »

they probably had loctite on them........  Undecided
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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #5 on: May 28, 2018, 09:37:55 AM »

Take your time, patience is the key.  For the stuck parts lots of penetrating fluid, I use a mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid, 50/50.  If the side plates are aluminum, try freezing and baking At 350 degrees a couple times with the 50/50 mix.  Your bearings are most likely toast and be replaced.  But you have those parts in the mail.  During reassembly, lightly oil the ar bearing, less is better, Cals Drag grease for the drags, oil the spool bearing and grease the rest, bearings and gears.  Shout out if you have any more issues, and let us know how it all turns out.  Bill
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It may not be very productive,
but it's sure going to be interesting!
RUSTY OLD COLT
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« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2018, 12:21:18 PM »

decide on the method your going to  try freezing , soaking or heating  then before twisting them with off with  the screwdriver again  apply a small amount of valve grinding paste the tip of the screwdriver (available from a auto parts store or auto machine shop ) it fills the space and the screw will usually just twist right off with a little downward pressure .
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alantani
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« Reply #7 on: June 05, 2018, 09:37:29 AM »

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bpm2000
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« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2018, 12:12:56 PM »

Thanks to Alan I was able to move ahead and get everything cleaned and serviced.  Managed to ruin one bearing attempting to pry the shield off (had a much thicker shield than the others I've removed) so salvaged the original sideplate bearing.  The spring that re-engages the thumbar also lost enough tension during all of the mucking around that I needed to add another "loop" to get it to pull the part back against the teeth again.

The final piece of the puzzle is the brass raceway for the brakes to run against:


It sits on the little lip inside of the plate but once reassembled will fall off and not stay in place.  Is this supposed to be originally glued in or is there some mechanism that is supposed to keep this ring in place that I am missing?

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alantani
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« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2018, 01:45:21 PM »

it was probably glued in.  i'll bet loctite would work!
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bpm2000
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« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2018, 12:27:43 PM »

Ended up using a tiny bead of some gorilla glue epoxy laying around to glue the race in place.  Everything feels great now and took it for a spin over the weekend.  The carbontex drags are very smooth but I think I will have to swap the handle washers to the stacked config versus the () way as I am finding that the range has been lessened quite a bit.  Does it matter if its facing (( or )) at all?  Also swapped out the handle for a Lexa swept version as I had it laying around from a power handle upgrade.  A feisty lil 3lb bass made a good test subject on the post-service feel:


Otherwise been pretty busy since finding this place.  Serviced two Lexa 300s (HL/HSL) and the Zillion after the Coastal.  Cleaned the Pflueger spinner although something in there is damaged as it is still "sticky" on the revolutions after the teardown.  Just finished the Revo T2 S61 preventative service which was the reel that brought me here.  Still left to do are the drag swap on the Tatula and a full service on the Okuma Induron 250x which is seized and unusable currently.


Thank you Alan and everyone for all the advice and the wealth of knowledge on this forum.  It's really been an accelerated course and a huge resource.

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