Parts cleaner

[Chuck750ss]

Looking at this parts cleaner. Thoughts,suggestions please.
https://www.amazon.com/Homgrace-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Digital/dp/B075YY8VB9/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531868565&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=ultra+sonic+parts+cleaner&psc=1

[foakes]

It would likely do a good job.

Because of my constant and long experience with these, the things I would be looking for in a unit would be:

S/S, highest ultrasonic wattage available that makes financial sense, and the biggie for me — no electronic touch or digital controls.

Best units have mechanical analog dial controls.  Less to go wrong, simpler, and with the inner vibration of the unit — touch pads and digital electronics have a short shelf life.  Mechanical seems like old school — but if you look at the best rated units for performance and longevity — they have mechanical analog dial controls.

Wattage is a major factor.  Wattage is power.  The more watts for the ultrasonic transducers — the more effective and complete cleaning that is possible.

If I was getting another unit for reel parts to replace the one I have — I would get this one through
Amazon Prime, or more likely Wal-Mart because of their simple return policy, and very inexpensive warranty.  220 watts, analog dials, SS — less to fail, commercial grade.  $179 at WalMart, same on Amazon.


https://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-HB-23MHT/dp/B00J4468J0?tag=jewelsclean-20

Just my opinions, most will do a good job.  They have come down in price drastically since I bought mine 18 years ago.

Best,

Fred

[Chuck750ss]

Thanks Fred. Exactly the type of information I was looking for.

[Spyderman]

So, given the amount of 'stuff' that needs to be removed from the internals of most reels being serviced, do ultrasonic cleaners need to have their baths cleaned/emptied frequently?  Do you need to remove a goodly percentage of the 'stuff' before running parts through an ultrasonic cleaner?

I've been using a benchtop parts cleaner running odorless paint thinner, and using a series of old toothbrushes, and small stainless steel and brass bristle brushes to clean all the reel pieces when I do a tear-down and rebuild.  None of the pieces/parts I've ever cleaned was so tiny and inaccessible that I haven't been able to get them sparkly clean using this setup.  The odorless paint thinner cuts through any grease I've encountered, and the paint thinner doesn't leave a residue that would impact re-lubrication when re-assembling the reel.  Just a note of caution, I wear disposable latex gloves when handling the parts in the paint thinner stream.  Prolonged exposure to paint thinner on skin can result in a chemical burn, like a sunburn.

[foakes]

I just use plain water in my reservoir —

Then use glass jars for the various mix of parts with their own individual solutions.

For example, tear down a reel such as a Penn conventional — all chrome, brass, aluminum and metal parts go into one container with whatever type of thinner you prefer — or HD purple degreaser.

The crank, sideplates, etc. either go into another wide mouth jar of simple green or Dawn dish soap.

14 minutes on the metal parts, 7 minutes on the Bakelite or plastic parts generally takes care of them.

Pour out the parts into a strainer — then pour the solution back into their jars for the next reel.  Put a lid on the thinner and mineral spirit stuff — because it will evaporate otherwise.

I generally get  8 to 12 reels completely cleaned using the same solution in the jars over and over.

Plus, it is much easier and cleaner to handle with no slopping or spilling.

Different ways to approach — for me, this is the simplest, quickest, cleanest, and most efficient.

Painted parts just get done by hand with warm water, Dawn dish soap, and a clean toothbrush.  Otherwise, paint removal or dulling will occur.

A separate hint —if you have large side plates or rings that will not go into a jar — just fill a ziplock with simple green — then drop it in the water filled reservoir.  Reuse the SG by pouring it back into a container.

Sometimes, after 7 or 8 cleanings with thinner, SG, or  purple degreaser — I strain the solution through an old metal gold coffee filter to remove the crud.  Cleaners are expensive when doing any volume of reels.  Thinners are approaching $20 a gallon, SG is around $12 a gallon.

If it gets much more expensive, I may need to charge a little extra just to help cover the cleaning solutions used.  Like the car guys do when you when you see your repair order — a flat $5 - $10 charge for miscellaneous small nuts and bolts.  Of course, they get $100+ an hour — and I work on a reel for an hour, and charge $20 to $25 for the whole deal, plus maybe a few parts that are a break-even at best.  But it is not a living for me — just a hobby that I enjoy.  

Then, you will also discover which solutions will clean a reel well, which ones mediocre, and which ones will discolor or melt parts completely.  For example, using purple degreaser on Mitchell aluminum gears and cranks will color them black — and that takes about 30 minutes to removes with steel wool and elbow grease — then 2 or 3 additional cleanings — no fun.  Nothing like dropping a few plastic or cheap alloy parts into a solution overnight — only to find a gooey liquid mix the next morning, and no parts!

Enough soap box for now...

Best,

Fred

[chockpish]

I was wondering? When you have your jars of solution in the cleaner, do you put them directly on the bottom of the cleaner? Or do you use the rack that comes with the cleaner? Would having the bottles directly on the bottom of the cleaner damage it?

Thanks in advance, Mike!

[Reel 224]

Looking at this parts cleaner. Thoughts,suggestions please.
https://www.amazon.com/Homgrace-Commercial-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Digital/dp/B075YY8VB9/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1531868565&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=ultra+sonic+parts+cleaner&psc=1

I got that Ultrasonic Cleaner for parts today. I felt it was good enough for my use, and I had some credit coming so the price was right.

Joe

[foakes]

I was wondering? When you have your jars of solution in the cleaner, do you put them directly on the bottom of the cleaner? Or do you use the rack that comes with the cleaner? Would having the bottles directly on the bottom of the cleaner damage it?

Thanks in advance, Mike!

Just right on the bottom, Mike.

Best,

Fred

[oc1]

I have a small cleaner (less than a liter I think) full of water.  I take an old mayonnaise jar, put in an ounce or less of solvent, drop in small parts, and then let the corner of the jar sort of float in the cleaning vat with the jar lip propped up on the side of the vat.  No jar lid.  The parts and solvent fall to the lowest corner of the jar.  The vibrations seem to be the same.
-steve

[chockpish]

I was wondering? When you have your jars of solution in the cleaner, do you put them directly on the bottom of the cleaner? Or do you use the rack that comes with the cleaner? Would having the bottles directly on the bottom of the cleaner damage it?

Thanks in advance, Mike!

Just right on the bottom, Mike.

Best,

Fred


Thank you very much Fred! I followed your advice on ultrasonic cleaners! Simple Green and water, Simple Green purple and water! Works very well! Thank you for the info! I've learned so much from this site, with the wealth of information that the members bring is so helpful!

[Reel 224]

Fred: Do you use the basket that comes with the ultrasonic cleaner for parts or just a jar for the smaller parts. I was thinking if I can line the basket with widow screen, I think that would work.

Joe

[handi2]

So, given the amount of 'stuff' that needs to be removed from the internals of most reels being serviced, do ultrasonic cleaners need to have their baths cleaned/emptied frequently?  Do you need to remove a goodly percentage of the 'stuff' before running parts through an ultrasonic cleaner?

I've been using a benchtop parts cleaner running odorless paint thinner, and using a series of old toothbrushes, and small stainless steel and brass bristle brushes to clean all the reel pieces when I do a tear-down and rebuild.  None of the pieces/parts I've ever cleaned was so tiny and inaccessible that I haven't been able to get them sparkly clean using this setup.  The odorless paint thinner cuts through any grease I've encountered, and the paint thinner doesn't leave a residue that would impact re-lubrication when re-assembling the reel.  Just a note of caution, I wear disposable latex gloves when handling the parts in the paint thinner stream.  Prolonged exposure to paint thinner on skin can result in a chemical burn, like a sunburn.

That's what I use on greasy parts. I will then use the US if needed.

Using the US cleaner on greasy parts will end up costing you too much money on cleaning fluid like Simple Green.

Clean them like you have been then use the US cleaner. If you work on spinning reels like Shimano's you can put the rotor and body in there and get it super clean. The white comes out like new.

[foakes]

Fred: Do you use the basket that comes with the ultrasonic cleaner for parts or just a jar for the smaller parts. I was thinking if I can line the basket with widow screen, I think that would work.

Joe

Any type of strainer screen with tiny holes will work, Joe.

You would be surprised what great values you can find in your local thrift and veterans stores. 

Best,

Fred

[Reel 224]

Thanks Fred.

Joe

[Chuck750ss]

Fred, carried one of my Mitchell 300's to work to clean in my spare time a while back. We had some new degreaser, don't recall the brand. Environmentally safe stuff, orange in color. Anyway, turned aluminum parts black. Mess to clean up.