Underhead 501 jigmaster

[mhc]

I've been wondering what the underhead reels made by accurate (mutant) and jiggingmaster (underhead?) are like. Since both these are pretty expensive, I thought I would have a go at turning a 501 into an underhead to try the concept. I've learnt from watching Chris (Rothmar2) and others here that making templates and jigs can save time in the long run so that's where I've started.

First was to make a template of the jigmaster screw holes, including two new holes to attach the 'top' stand, for drilling the screw holes in 3mm SS spacer rings.



I'm using the 3mm spacer rigs so I don't need to drill new holes in the side plates where the top stand attaches. The template was made from 10 mm (~3/8") mild steel so it will double as half of a jig to drill the screw holes for the frame pieces. The plan is to use screws as stoppers to rest the frame pieces against at a consistent distance from the screw holes - to do this I made a small template that is held in place by the center hole and the screw holes.

 

Same template with a wider gap from the screw hole was used for the end stop of the stand piece, the holes for the end stops for small frame bar were drilled the same distance as the side stops (with a new drill bit  ).



To make the jig, I screwed the 10mm template to another piece of 10mm plate and transferred the hole locations by drilling through the first. This included four 9.5mm holes for guides and four 1/4 inch holes for screws to clamp the pieces together, clearance hole on top and threaded on the bottom plate. I used a couple of mild steel pieces for a test run





Jig screwed together with test pieces in place (one of the clamping screws head was too close to the stop screw and will need to be moved)



Drilling the screw holes



It seems to have worked, but I wont really know until I make the actual parts and screw it all together with a spool.





That's all for now, I'll follow up after the weekend.

Mike

[Swami805]

Wow!  This is going to be good. Way outside of the box. Thanks

[xjchad]

Wow Mike, can't wait to see the next steps.  Great jig work!

[mo65]

   I'm so out of the loop...I had to google underhead...HA! Interesting!

[Alto Mare]

Mike, I want to come and hang with you, too bad you so far asway . Can't wait to see what you'll come up with.

Sal

[mizmo67]

I didn't know what an "underhead" reel was, either.

Example of the Jiggingmaster https://www.evike.com/products/59542/


Very neat!

[STRIPER LOU]

Very cook Mike. Big project.

I think it might keep you busy for a while!

......................Lou

[Rothmar2]

Glad to see something come up for everyone to see. This will be an epic thread.

[basto]

   I'm so out of the loop...I had to google underhead...HA! Interesting!

Hi Mo
Us Aussies call conventional reels overheads. I guess knowing this helps to understand what an underhead is., although I have never heard an Alvey or trout reel called an underhead.
Greg

[mhc]

Thanks for the interest guys, I hope it works as planned - the jiggingmasters look like great reels, Keith (handi2) seems to like his, but it was the 'simpler' design of the accurate mutant that gave me the idea that this concept might be possible with other reels.

I've made more progress with the frame parts and cutting the spacer rings. There are two curved spacer bars and one flat bar that forms part of the new stand - the curved pieces were cut from a piece of 40 mm x 6 mm 316 SS plate that was bent around a 60 mm rod for frame parts when I made the 2/0 "bait special" last year. First step was to cut a section long enough, clean it up and square one end on the belt sander;





Then cut two curved pieces from it and a piece of flat 6 mm to size



Sand the three pieces to 36 mm width on the belt sander,



Next was put the pieces in the new jig for drilling,



I used a rubber band to hold the pieces against the stops while I tightened the clamping bolts,



Drilled and tapped the 5-40 screw holes and tried a quick test fit,





So far so good!  Next step was to make the 'leg' section of the stand, I'm using 12 mm x 40 mm x 48 mm long 316 SS,



The frame components marked for drilling holes to help shape them,



With the holes drilled,



I used a cut off wheel in an angle grinder and a thin cut off wheel in a dremel to cut between the holes,



Instead of chain drilling the inner space of the spacer rings like I've done on previous projects, I asked a friend to have a go using a plasma cutter. It was quicker but will need the same amount of filing to finish it off, if we had time to make a guide we could have cut closer to the line,



The frame parts shaped as much as I can using belt sanders and bench grinders, the rest will be with files and the dremel,



That's where I'm at with this - the filing will take a little time.

Thanks
Mike

[Rothmar2]

Getting in shape for summer Mike?!
That's a lot of filing ahead, but I'm sure it will be worth it when done. Keep the pics coming.

[broadway]

Mike,
   I'm loving this thread! I can't wait to see your final goal... it will certainly be a one-off.
Out of curiosity, how much more will it weigh than the stock 501 and the aftermarket frame, spool, and side plates made 501's?
You have me wanting more.  Let's go with that filing, pal! LOL
Thanks for sharing your creativity,
Dom

[Alto Mare]

Very cool Mike, I love that Jig you made as well. What type of bits are you using for drilling? I"m drilling a 1/4" bolt , top and bottom to use for handle shaft and noticed that high speed steel bits are doing a better job than Cobalt bits. I do drill ss in the lowest possible speed.
Also, plain water is working better than oil, my best result is to soak the part every 1/8" of drilling and its doing a good job, but keep in mind I'm no expert on this stuff, stone,brick and wood I could make anything, but working steel is another story. I'm just experimenting with what works best for me.
Keep it coming Mike.

Sal

[Dominick]

Yep, keep it coming.  Dominick

[mhc]

Getting in shape for summer Mike?!
That's a lot of filing ahead, but I'm sure it will be worth it when done. Keep the pics coming.

HaHa - incidental exercise will be one good outcome from this project.

Out of curiosity, how much more will it weigh than the stock 501 and the aftermarket frame, spool, and side plates made 501's?

Thanks Dom, It will be a fair bit heavier than a stock 501 or a full aluminium 501 - I don't know how much yet, I've got more weight reducing grinding and filing to do but I'll weigh it when I'm finished just to see.

Very cool Mike, I love that Jig you made as well. What type of bits are you using for drilling? I"m drilling a 1/4" bolt , top and bottom to use for handle shaft and noticed that high speed steel bits are doing a better job than Cobalt bits. I do drill ss in the lowest possible speed.
Also, plain water is working better than oil, my best result is to soak the part every 1/8" of drilling and its doing a good job, but keep in mind I'm no expert on this stuff, stone,brick and wood I could make anything, but working steel is another story. I'm just experimenting with what works best for me.
Keep it coming Mike.

Sal

Thanks Sal, I've been using cobalt bits most of the time for SS with the drill press set at the lowest speed it has - 510 RPM. I use a cutting fluid 'tap magic' for drilling and thread cutting - I don't flood the work, just a few drops to start the hole and a few more after each 1/8" or so (more on the holes over about a 1/4") I also stop drilling while I add more fluid which helps to stop the bit from overheating. I do use high speed bits when I don't have a cobalt one in the size I need but the cobalt seems to cut better for me. I'm no expert either, most of what I know has been picked up from Chris and other experts on here - when I first started messing around with these projects I burnt a lot of bits and broke a lot of taps on stainless.

Thanks Dominic, I'll get on with it!