Underhead 501 jigmaster

Started by mhc, August 03, 2018, 01:34:35 PM

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Alto Mare

Thanks Mike... got to ask guys that know how its done :).
Yes I've broken many as well, most from following the recommended chart for stainless steel.
I've been using  Dormer taps,  when they were snapping as well, I knew I was doing something wrong.
I contacted Adam and he mentioned not to follow the chart, he mentioned they're usually wrong, so I purchased a few sizes and found the perfect match by trial and error.
These are working the best for me : Black and Gold High Speed Steel Jobber Drill Bits for Metal, I did 10 holes with one and still cutting...we'll see.
Thank you Mike, your input is very much appreciated.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

mhc

For tap drill sizes, I use the 'theoretical machinist' tap drill size calculator that Adam posted a link to in his excellent post on drilling and tapping holes http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17892.0. Following Adam's advice for threaded holes in stainless, I aim for around 55 - 65% thread engagement, depending on what size bits are available. The calculator allows you to enter the thread size, imperial or metric and what % engagement you want.
It's a good resource for anyone doing this work - not to mention the great advice Adam gives in his thread about taps and bits and how to use them.

Mike     
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Tiddlerbasher

x2 on that Mike. Adam's post helped me alot - I've just about stopped breaking taps. I am slowly replacing my taps with HSSE (5-7% Cobalt) types (my drills too) - the cobalt really makes a difference for the modest extra cost ;)

Alto Mare

I've forgotten all about that thread, thanks for the reminder.
Adam knows his stuff!

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

steelfish

seems like a awesome project, Im keeping an eye on this one
The Baja Guy

redsetta

Great work Mike - looking forward to the next installment!
All the best, Justin
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

Donnyboat

Thanks Mike, for taking us along with you, great thread, lots of good info coming through, over & above what your making, that mind of yours never stops, I would hate to be sleeping next to you, you would be throwing your arms around all night, thanks cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Dominick

Quote from: Alto Mare on August 06, 2018, 01:17:11 PM
I've forgotten all about that thread, thanks for the reminder.
Adam knows his stuff!

Sal
I did too.  I bookmarked it so I can refer to it.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

mhc

#23
Another useful tip for keeping the tap vertical while hand tapping holes is to use a small block with a clearance hole drilled for the tap as a guide - Ed (eguinn) mentions it in Adam's thread on tapping and I've seen others mention it on this site. I've made one out of a scrap of 12 mm stainless with holes for 5-40, 6-40 and now 8-32 taps. These photos show using an 8-32 tap through a 4.3 mm hole.

 



Mike
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

mhc

#24
There is still a fair bit of filing and grinding to do but I thought I would update as I go. Using an old set of jigmaster rings as a guide screwed to the spacer rings, I filed the inside of spacer rings with a coarse half round file and sanded them with a 1/2 inch drum on the dremel.



I used a bench grinder and belt sander for the out side of the rings.

 

I've started cleaning up and shaping the frame components, grinding the backs of the spacer bars to reduce weight and shaping the leg.



I tried a quick test fit to see how things were sitting and give people an idea of how it will look,







Now it's back to the files,



Mike

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Alto Mare

This is crazy, Mike...what a masterpiece you're building!

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

broadway

Mike,
   This is getting good, real good!
One question... what are the holes for in the reel seat? Is it for a clamp? Will you be making one of those too?
Awesome project bro,
Dom

Smols

Amazing! I am in awe that you are able to fabricate these parts with only basic tools. I have never fabricated any metal parts, but your posts are making me want to experiment with drilling, cutting and tapping.

How will you lay the line on the reel? The only underhead reels I have seen have a level wind mechanism.

Regards,
Smols

basto

Alveys and trout reels don't have level winds.
DAM Quick 3001      SHIMANO Spedmaster 3   Jigging Master PE5n

mhc

#29
Thanks again guys,
Dom - the two holes in the top of the leg are to screw a reel seat / foot onto. The leg is a bit narrow at 12 mm (~1/2") wide and most reel feet I've seen are around 16 - 20 mm, even round ABU feet are about 14.5 mm. I wasn't looking forward to filing the long groove on the underside of a reel foot so I asked Tom if he had any of the feet he uses on his frames. Not sure how to attach a rod clamp yet - I'll need to give it more thought.
Smols, the Jiggingmaster reels have a level-wind but the accurate mutants I've seen photos of don't have it but they do have very narrow spools. I thought of using the spool from the narrow 501 kits Randy P had made by Tiburon but unfortunately Tib didn't make any extra spools and only sold them as kits. I settled on a standard width 501 spool and was hoping to be able to guide the line with a finger under the rod but I think I might have made the leg a tad long for that. I'll see how this goes when I've finished it - maybe I'll need to put less line on to allow for poor line lay. Basto has a point about the Alvey reels, I used them many years ago and didn't have too many issues with line lay, it seemed to move from side to side a bit by slightly tilting the rod from side to side while retrieving - not sure if being under the rod helped with that or it was the bigger guides on the old side cast rods. ???

Mike

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.