alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Breakaway/Coaster or Non-Traditional Reel Seat
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 21, 2018, 06:47:34 AM *
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Author Topic: Breakaway/Coaster or Non-Traditional Reel Seat  (Read 495 times)
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thorhammer
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"You can't drank all day if you don't start..."


« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2018, 10:45:45 AM »

35 bucks beats your time to strip and paint an old one, if it just to learn with. go for it
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Ron Jones
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« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2018, 11:22:56 AM »

I have seen heavy spinning blanks used as lighter conventionals and light spinners used for baitcasters. The listing of the blank is what the manufacturer thinks you should use it for, not what you want it for.

No one is better at explaining this than Alan. Once you see his picture and how it all should work you immediately understand that the last thing you should consider is line rating and intended use.
Ron
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Ronald Jones
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oc1
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« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2018, 12:15:50 PM »

There have been times when rod manufacturers used the same blank to make spinning and casting rods.  Also, fly rods and spinning rods from the same blank although the tip and butt may have been trimmed differently.  The manufacturers are not going to admit it, but when the materials, production techniques, inside and outside taper are the same, it is the same blank.

There are advantages to stripping down an old rod versus buying a new blank.  If you look for old rods at the local flea market you get to waggle, bend and fondle it first.  Maybe even cast it first.  A beat up old rod can hide a really nice blank inside.  Cut off the guides, scrape off the finish, use a rotary tool with cutting disc to remove the seat, then lightly sand the whole thing.

All blanks are not created equal.  This has never been more true than right now.  A cheap blank from ebay is going to be just that and you will not get the performance and longevity of a quality name brand blank.

Don't bother with the slip-up guides.  They can only work if the guides are  manufactured for a very specific blank and build.  Guide placement is important and the slip-on guides will not end up in the right places.

-steve
« Last Edit: September 27, 2018, 12:17:17 PM by oc1 » Logged
sundancer
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« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2018, 05:01:57 AM »

Steve

That's why i asked.  With all the cross Models and Parts for Penn Reels alone, I thought there might be the same on Rod Blanks..

I will go thru my 'stuff' and see if there is something worth using. I also have one coming from eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rod-Building-Wrapping-2pc-66-rod-blank-fishing-Matte-Grey-color/223122688176?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



that might work..  Most of my 'saved' stuff are short 2 piece boat rods with the wooden handle.  not really the stuff to convert.

I will let you know how it goes.

Steve
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akadashoe
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« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2018, 04:01:31 PM »

UPDATE

got 4 and still waiting on another group of 4 light duty 'plate-type' reel seats..  4 have a rubber cushion on the bottom of the plate. 

will be doing a split butt.

these will be for Penn 9's...  Couple of the Reels will be loaded with 20# Braid.  they will be for Boat fishing, dragging bait, light jigging...  nothing technical...

now to the question.........

when looking at Rod Blanks, they have Casting and Spinning as different categories.  is there a functional difference in a Casting v Spinning on a Blank?  seems once the Blank is splined, the location dictates the usage - Casting v Spinning.

I am looking to go as cheap as possible for my first couple of attempts with building a Rod

thanks

F.Y.I.
 Building on the spine or "spline"  has no effect on the performance of any blank.
The deadlift capacity will always be highest on the straightest axis of the blank.
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sundancer
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« Reply #20 on: October 03, 2018, 06:24:49 AM »

UPDATE and open to suggestions

Like i have mentioned, I have a virgin Blank, little less than 3/8" diameter at the Butt and a Plate-type Seat (too wide for the Blank) that i plan to use. 

My plan is to use a short length of ~1/2" PCV to build up the area where I intend to attach the Seat.  Then do the Split Grip arrangement. 

Might even drill the Penn 9 Foot to accept a Reel Clamp.

How bad is this plan?  This is my first attempt at building a Rod.

As always, thanks
Steve
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sundancer
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« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2018, 08:10:00 AM »

UPDATE II

2 models of the Reel Seat complete with one better than the other but neither real pretty.

all components stacked on the Rod for viewing.

Butt Cap glued on. 

QUESTION

is there a formal dimension on the distance between the Butt Cap and the Rear Grip, or 'whatever works..'?

Thanks
Steve
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