alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial will Ultrasound remove anodized finish
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 19, 2018, 11:41:45 AM *
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Author Topic: will Ultrasound remove anodized finish  (Read 202 times)
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Navidad Nutcase
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« on: October 12, 2018, 07:30:58 AM »

Greetings real reel people.  I picked up this Penn 80TW off ebay. My plan was to use it for parts. As you can see, this baby has been exposed to some heavy corrosion. What surprised me is that the guts are in excellent condition.The only thing I can figure, is that the reel was stored (and never fished) on a boat someplace where it was exposed to either salt spray or condensation for a very long time. The pitting is deep but only on the outside. The spool must have had line on it because it to is also in good condition.
 
I now want to clean it up and fish it. I saw on an other post, Herters alumi hyde, and have picked up a can along with a primer and  - as suggested - a dozen nozzles for the can. ( I gather they clog easily) .
My question to you  ( read tightlines 66 ) is this.  How long can I leave this in an ultrasound cleaner  without damaging the finish on the the insides. Like both end plates and the spool.  I'd like to remove the blue paint from the pits before I start applying the Herters. Perhaps just using some varnish stripper, pen knife and Q-tips and vetoing the ultrasound altogether  would be the way to go.  I know I read a post where Dave left a reel in the machine to long and the resulting removal of the original finish resulted in a very nice looking rebuild/color combo on a reel he owns.
I'll leave it at that for now. this is going to be a winter project and it is not cold enough to be inside just yet.
Cheers, Greg


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Navidad Nutcase
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« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2018, 07:42:46 AM »

P.S  I asked similar questions before and received good advise.  One suggestion was this product but, I can not locate '' aircraft paint remover'' . Also, I learned I do not have to remove the anodized finish before using the Herters but I am betting the blue paint has GOT to come out of those pits.
Greg
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ReelClean
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« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2018, 02:42:22 PM »

P.S  I asked similar questions before and received good advise.  One suggestion was this product but, I can not locate '' aircraft paint remover'' . Also, I learned I do not have to remove the anodized finish before using the Herters but I am betting the blue paint has GOT to come out of those pits.
Greg
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/surestrip.php?clickkey=4516

This type of stuff. 

Cheers
Steve
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George6308
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« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2018, 05:04:07 PM »

Auto parts store should carry air craft paint remover. I got my can at Auto Zone. It's put out by Rustolium. PS it's Brownell's Alumin-Hyde. Herter's  went out of business in the 70's. Brownell's has video on their site which shows how to use Alumin-Hyde. No primer is needed but primer can be used.
Those pits are deep and you may have to use a metal  or nylon filled epoxy putty, Marine Tex epoxy will also work, to fill the pits and sand surface smooth with wet or dry sand paper down to 400 or 320 grit. Spray  the paint remover and use a brass bristle brush like the small brushes sold at Harbor Freight to remove the blue paint as best as you can. Although removing the pain residue should not matter. Then use the Alumin-Hyde as a top coat.
« Last Edit: October 12, 2018, 05:20:00 PM by George6308 » Logged
oc1
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« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2018, 09:16:28 PM »

I don't think the ultrasonic will make the anodizing fall off.  If it does fall off then it's loose any you do not want it there anyway.  The ultrasonic with some solvent may make the paint fall off without damaging the intact anodizing.  I wouldn't use anything acidic because it might eat under he anodizing.  Just a petrochemical solvent of choice.

-steve
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Navidad Nutcase
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« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2018, 10:45:42 PM »

thanks  to you all for the advise. I will look for those products in the next week. I am in Canada. We do have rustoleum products but I can't seem to locate aircraft paint remover.  Re: herters Vs. Bronells, I don't know why I said Herters. I already have the paint and I new it was Brownells. Perhaps this rusty old brain was pulling information from my ''1970's files '' instead of ''current files''.  I will also check out there
 video.
Regarding anodized finish coming off from ultrasonic cleaning,  I am sure I read somewhere in these posts that tightlines66 left a reel in for (don't know how long ) and the finish did come off. Perhaps it was not anodized, maybe something else. I am pretty sure now that if I do use the ultrasonic cleaner, it will only be to lift any loose material. I really don't want the finish to come off the inside of the end plates. I don't want to have to put Brownells on the inside.
To be continued.....
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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2018, 01:33:46 AM »

I have use an US cleaner for some years on all types of fishing reel parts (except ceramic bearings - I had one disintigrate) - I clean bits 5-10 mins at a time in soapy water and solvents various. Never had a problem with anodizng. Obviously care must be used with a paint finish and solvents. I know Fred has had a lot of experience with US cleaners and liquids various.
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Tightlines666
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« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2018, 04:20:41 AM »

thanks  to you all for the advise. I will look for those products in the next week. I am in Canada. We do have rustoleum products but I can't seem to locate aircraft paint remover.  Re: herters Vs. Bronells, I don't know why I said Herters. I already have the paint and I new it was Brownells. Perhaps this rusty old brain was pulling information from my ''1970's files '' instead of ''current files''.  I will also check out there
 video.
Regarding anodized finish coming off from ultrasonic cleaning,  I am sure I read somewhere in these posts that tightlines66 left a reel in for (don't know how long ) and the finish did come off. Perhaps it was not anodized, maybe something else. I am pretty sure now that if I do use the ultrasonic cleaner, it will only be to lift any loose material. I really don't want the finish to come off the inside of the end plates. I don't want to have to put Brownells on the inside.
To be continued.....

I did have an older International 12 that had most of the anodizing come off with a 15min stint in my sonic cleaner in 50:50 Simple Green:water solution.  However, his is the only reel off the 100s I have ran through the cleaner where the anodizing was removed so I wouldn't consider it a proven method for removing anodizing. 

There are some products available that may do the job better.

John
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mhc
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« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2018, 05:01:21 AM »

I'm no expert but from what I've read the anodizing process is a clear aluminum oxide layer when first formed using electrolysis and then dyed in a separate step with whatever color you choose, and then sealed in yet another step. I suspect with John's ill-fated int 12 plates the dye was leached or washed out by the cleaning but the anodizing was probably still intact - not very attractive but still functional in terms of scratch and corrosion resistance.

Mike
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It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.
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