alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Rust prevention on Channellock pliers
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
November 18, 2018, 09:03:31 PM *
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Author Topic: Rust prevention on Channellock pliers  (Read 524 times)
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #15 on: November 04, 2018, 05:49:19 PM »

I just spray with TSI301
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #16 on: November 04, 2018, 06:08:18 PM »

I think the vinegar etch will make it rust faster until the metal skins over again.

Fred, we used to have a bucket of sand with burnt oil poured over it.  After use, garden tools were plunged in and out of the oily sand before going back on the rack.  The bucket always looked really nasty but the tools didn't rust.
-steve 
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Tiddlerbasher
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« Reply #17 on: November 04, 2018, 06:27:45 PM »

The cord on the handles will still allow rust/corrosion to develop underneath
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broadway
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« Reply #18 on: November 04, 2018, 06:31:30 PM »

Hey PJ,
   Yes, I have plenty of experience with Salt Away and absolutely love the product, however this isn't the job for it.  It will get rid of salt residue but won't keep them from rusting even with the inhibitors it has in it.
The crew is correct when they say to wrap it in an oiled rag and drop in a ziplock.  If they get corrosion or rusted shut you can try the salt away, but as Rudy said it's more of a rod and reel rinse down to remove salt without warm water.  It works excellent for screws or any part that is "stuck" in a reel.  If a reel is very badly corroded I just drop it in a bucket of water and add salt away.  The next day it's freed up.
Best of luck,
Dom
PS- nice wraps on this pliers Wink
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Ron Jones
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« Reply #19 on: November 04, 2018, 07:05:53 PM »

I am working on my knots in order to wrap a set of tools, and my plan is to bake on a layer of cerakote before I wrap. It is sort of like treating disk brake rotors. Once you use them, the coating wears way where it needs to but continues to protect everywhere else. If Cerakote isn't good enough, I don't know what would be.
The Man
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Ronald Jones
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« Reply #20 on: November 05, 2018, 12:10:33 AM »

Salt Away
It works excellent for screws or any part that is "stuck" in a reel.  If a reel is very badly corroded I just drop it in a bucket of water and add salt away.  The next day it's freed up.
Thank you for the tip Dom.  I'm going to try that.
-steve
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« Reply #21 on: November 05, 2018, 09:39:37 AM »

I am working on my knots in order to wrap a set of tools, and my plan is to bake on a layer of cerakote before I wrap. It is sort of like treating disk brake rotors. Once you use them, the coating wears way where it needs to but continues to protect everywhere else. If Cerakote isn't good enough, I don't know what would be.
The Man

Ron, when I wrap tool handles I apply a thin coat of epoxy or gorilla glue (careful, it expands!!!) then handlay the cord on with a whip finish. This holds the cord in place forever and also provides a water impermeable barrier to the metal...well maybe not forever but it's been about nine years since I did a set and no signs of coming loose...I did needle-nose, dikes, pliers, and wire nippers that are my primary rigging / bench tools.
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Lunker Larry
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« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2018, 09:54:55 AM »

I don't buy expensive tools that could end up in Davie Jones' tool box. Don't care what they look like as long as they do what they's supposed to do. WD40 when needed but I follow it up with a heavier oil for the joints etc. The WD40 carries the heavier lubricant into those tight fittings and it lasts longer. I also keep one of those small cans in the boat.
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« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2018, 10:31:25 AM »

I consider them a disposable item. I keep mine stored in Liquid Wrench when not using. Usually lose them over the side before they rust up bad enough that they are unusable. As a Party and Charter boat mate/captain for over 50 years I can't tell you how many pair of pliers I've been through.
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« Reply #24 on: November 05, 2018, 12:25:47 PM »

Or, just get some of these:
https://www.tackledirect.com/calcutta-cg10p-7-5-7-1-2in-pliers-w-carbide-cutter-sheath-lanyard.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA8f_eBRDcARIsAEKwRGewKH0ChofMhq15h2QD8vAOouM12gGqzZsFTQC1PziX5oADhEKwQYEaAlrTEALw_wcB
Mine pretty much stay wet and salty.  The finish holds up and they just get a drop of oil on the hinge every few months.  They cut braid too.
-steve
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Bill B (Tarfu)
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« Reply #25 on: November 05, 2018, 01:41:47 PM »

I treat my needle nose and side cutters like my reels....After every trip they get cleaned and oiled (anything within arms reach) then put away wet (with oil).  The nylon belt sheath I carry them in has so much oil on it it stains my pants and is somewhat water proof, think oilskin slickers.     Bill
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« Reply #26 on: November 08, 2018, 09:59:45 AM »

So I found out that the tool handles were coated with Flexcoat 5 minute epoxy after they were wrapped with the cord. The epoxy should offer some good protection but I can always reapply if I see anything bad happening...

As far as the surface rust issue I decided to give Penetrol a try since my local hardware store had a quart on clearance for $7....After researching the product provided plenty of great reviews I'm sure it will more than meet my needs

 
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Gfish
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« Reply #27 on: November 08, 2018, 02:20:16 PM »

Yeah. The worst deal is grab your pliers when you really need 'em(i.e., unhookin a barracuda) and they's froze-up. I gave up gettin gooduns and use bargin-bin ones that I godda check and lube(joints only)the night before, sos I don't get lube all over my hand--fish slime only, please.
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« Reply #28 on: November 08, 2018, 03:45:08 PM »

I've been using the absolute cheapest I can find for the same reasons that Frank stated. If I lose em, I'm out what, 3 bucks? What's kinda strange to me though, is my cheapies seem to last longer and hold up better than the more expensive ones I've had. They cut braid almost as well as scissors and when they get a little dull, they are easy to touch up with a file because the steel tends to be softer. They also don't tend to develop much side to side slop. Since I discovered TSI321, I've been using it on anything metal that moves and it really seems to keep my cutters from seizing. They might get a little stiff if I don't use them in a while, but another drop or 2 on the joint and it opens right up.

As far as the surface rust goes, I just leave it on there and wear it like a badge of honor...lol

That's a really nice set though. To protect that finish, I'd do a light coat of TSI, wipe off the excess, then do a light coat of grease prior to putting them away. If you have a pliers sheath, just keep them stored in that.

Mike
« Last Edit: November 08, 2018, 03:51:30 PM by Fishy247 » Logged
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