Oval Head Hex Drive

[Swami805]

I'm in for 100

[RowdyW]

My understanding is that a button head has a flat bottom. How will that work in a tapered hole?          

Rudy - the flat based button heads cover the taper. If you fit a standard tapered/oval head screw (and over tighten) you can split the ring. Button heads will not split a ring but still give a neat finish - they are also available - unlike hens teeth . Personal preference I guess

The problem with a flat side under the head it will not alighin the plates correctly. It turns out to be a guessing game as to correct alighinment. A screw with a taper under the head automaticlly lines everything up. I guess to clear the eccentric lever it has to be bent.

[swill88]

My understanding is that a button head has a flat bottom. How will that work in a tapered hole?          

Rudy - the flat based button heads cover the taper. If you fit a standard tapered/oval head screw (and over tighten) you can split the ring. Button heads will not split a ring but still give a neat finish - they are also available - unlike hens teeth . Personal preference I guess

The problem with a flat side under the head it will not alighin the plates correctly. It turns out to be a guessing game as to correct alighinment. A screw with a taper under the head automaticlly lines everything up. I guess to clear the eccentric lever it has to be bent.

Good point Rudy.  Maybe secure and align the plate with stock screws then add the ss flat bottomed screws one at a time?  Thanks for bringing that up.
Steve

[foakes]

Still waiting for 3 more quotes on the oval head 5-40 hex drive in SS.

In the meantime, I needed to order a few hex drive socket flat head countersunk for the bins — since they work very well — and keep everything below flush surface, and the holes aligned.  These are 5-40 - hex socket drive - SS.

4 different lengths — 200 of each.  Averages 4.3 cents per screw.

Not sure how this compares with others — but if anyone needs these, let me know and I will add to the order.  I have done business with these folks for over 45 years.  They are a local wholesaler to me.  So no shipping charges.

10 day turnaround due to the TG holiday for me to receive them.  They do not charge me extra for sourcing or shipping.

Best,

Fred

[Frank]

Hi Fred,

I will take 100 of each if it's not to much trouble. Please let me know your preferred payment.

Thanks,

Frank

[Frank]

What are you using for the 6-40 bridge screws?

[foakes]

Glad to add them to my order, Frank —

For the bridge SS hex socket drive SS cap screws in 6-40, the threaded ones are easy.

And all I do for the ones that go to the clutch springs is chuck them up in a drill press, or on my lathe with a chuck I just file down the threads smooth like on factory screws — then just clean up the end threads a bit.

For two screws per reel, it is just a few minutes — and since they are SS — they are solid all of the way through — not chrome over brass.

I will keep this order open until tomorrow PM — but then we can always order more at any time.

The owner is a personal friend, and has been in business nationally for 66 years — 3rd generation.

They have (5) large warehouses full — and source worldwide if needed.

Pretty cool to go to their counter and and buy 5 pounds of floor sweepings for $8.00.   But they never match.  They can not afford to sort their droppings — just move them out.

They are fairly unknown since their main clients are government, public utility, military, and large tech firms.  It is not unusual to see a 8" hex nut for a turbine that sells for $165 to $370 each.  They are made to government specs.

They just do me a favor by selling me this small stuff. 

In another lifetime, they kept stocked all of my bins for automotive and trailer builds.

Best,

Fred

[Frank]

On the 6-40 bridge screws I'll take:

100 ea. - 13/32"

100 ea. - 1/2"

100 ea. - 5/8"

If that's okay with you.

[Reel 224]

To shorten a screw - I screw them into the appropriate die then cut with a dremel - then unscrew the die. Maybe de-burr the end afterwards.

This process is close but you have to chanfer then chase the thread with die. I use a thread cutter to cut small screws on the lathe, SS is very brittle.

Joe

[foakes]

Yeah, Joe —

It takes a little finesse, either an SS nut or a die — and until you get the hang of it dialed in — you might waste a few screws.

But I think most anyone on here who could service, upgrade, and build a reel — could do it competently.

Just my opinions.

Best,

Fred

[Alto Mare]

I agree with Fred, anyone here could shorten screws with a little common sense.
I use a bridge plate, screw them in at the length I want them and hold the plate on a belt sander. When you back them out, the threads will usually get cleaned on their own.

Sal

[gstours]

  Sal and others,  you are right on.  the bridge is a light bulb on for the length.  I also find things hard to do.  then somebody sez. how to.... thats why i like this place....    thanks to all.

[Reel 224]

I sort of agree with that aproch, If you want to develop a true say 6-40 SS screw for the bridge that is none threaded shoulder and partial thread like the Penn Bridge clutch screw then filing a full thread screw weakens that screw. A partial thread screw with a shoulder is stronger because of the remaining material that is on the none thread shoulder. I hope this explains this.

Joe

[foakes]

Perhaps one thing we should keep in mind — these are just screws that hold the sideplates and bridge.

Outside of a salt fused screw left to die in an aluminum frame like an International, Accurate, or Tib frame I cannot recall over a couple of screws that were broken — maybe none...and I have been doing this for awhile now...

Most of the issues regarding broken screws come from yard sales, Mr. EBay, or someone's uncle who passed on 20 years ago — and never knew how to service his reels.

If they are properly greased, almost any screw will do the job of holding these parts together.  There is little stress on these screws.

Personally, I just like the hex socket because there is less chance of scratching a sideplate or frame when assembling, it is a quicker operation, and it looks cool...the SS is nice also.  A little stronger, and much better paired with upgraded sideplates and frames like Tom's, or Tib's, old Accurates, or others.  There is no goobering of the drive slots — we can torque it exactly where we want it — and it makes a neat and sanitary touch to our reels.

I have drilled out many a screw broken in aluminum frames — but never one that was properly greased and serviced regularly by folks who know about that trick like on our site.

Best,

Fred

[Reel 224]

Fred: I hope I'm not steeping on toes here. Just my background in Engineering gets in the way ......................Joe