alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Tutorial Installing IAR bearing
Fishing Reel Repair by Alan Tani
May 22, 2013, 07:13:17 PM *
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Author Topic: Tutorial Installing IAR bearing  (Read 7173 times)
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Ken_D
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« Reply #15 on: October 10, 2011, 07:28:49 AM »

Hi , That's a great tutorial. Im thinking of upgrading my old black 6500 which originally doesnt have an IAR bearing fitted. Just wondered how far to press in , on the photos it looks flush with the inside of the casing ,is that right? Has anyone upgraded the main gears / multi disc drag on one of these old reels?
Thanks  

kewl. But forget it. IAR brg will not fit.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2012, 11:02:49 AM by Ken_D » Logged
Killerbug
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« Reply #16 on: December 20, 2011, 04:27:53 AM »

Thanks to Slowly and Snagged2, this is great stuff.
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Slowly
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« Reply #17 on: December 22, 2011, 05:34:06 PM »

you're welcome!!!   Grin Grin Grin
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« Reply #18 on: December 22, 2011, 07:55:05 PM »

you're welcome!!!   Grin Grin Grin
Absolutely,,ditto
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B Austin
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« Reply #19 on: March 10, 2012, 02:12:25 PM »

I noticed in the pictures in the pictures that one side of the IAR is stamped and the other side is not. I've just broken open a supposedly virgin reel and the stamping (ie. ID #s and the like) inside of the plate. Is this is how it should be, or the other way around? I thought I saw in one of the tutorials the reverse case. I may be mistaken. Sorry that I did not ask this question before, but where is the best place to order these replacements?
« Last Edit: March 10, 2012, 02:18:41 PM by B Austin » Logged
alantani
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« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2012, 09:56:10 PM »

i'd install the inner tube into the IAR bearing and see which way it turns, just to make sure. 
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Killerbug
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« Reply #21 on: March 12, 2012, 04:17:35 AM »

I noticed in the pictures in the pictures that one side of the IAR is stamped and the other side is not. I've just broken open a supposedly virgin reel and the stamping (ie. ID #s and the like) inside of the plate. Is this is how it should be, or the other way around? I thought I saw in one of the tutorials the reverse case. I may be mistaken. Sorry that I did not ask this question before, but where is the best place to order these replacements?

On left handled reels the IAR is reverced.
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« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2012, 06:11:30 PM »

I just did the 14 and 9 mm method, but since I don't have a good vice, would it be approiate to ask for more specific instructions on tnis method. ie. bolt size etc? I hope I'm not just missing something.
Thanks in advance. 
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Ken_D
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« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2012, 10:04:35 AM »

I just did the 14 and 9 mm method, but since I don't have a good vice, would it be approiate to ask for more specific instructions on tnis method. ie. bolt size etc? I hope I'm not just missing something.
Thanks in advance.  

The Vise method is great if you have one. If not: All you need is a socket (Allen-head) capscrew, in inch, about 5/16" x 2 1/2", a hex nut for same, a flat washer, a 3/8" drive socket that catches that little 'lip' on the bearing boss, and a wrench or pliers for the hex nut.
The OD of the capscrew catches the outer race of the IAR.  If you live where metric is the format, then take your sideplate to the shop, and get one of the appropriate measurements.  I bought my capscrew and nut for under 2.00 Canadian.

Method:  From the inside of the side plate, carefully insert capscrew in the IAR, place socket on boss, place washer on socket, place hex nut on washered capscrew, , and walk the IAR up and out into the socket.  Easy-peasy lemon squeezey.  I've modified an old brass doorknob instead of a wrench. The IAR is not all that tight in the boss.

To install a new IAR, place capscrew on IAR, place capscrew from the inside as before, with socket washer and nut, and and walk the IAR into the bearing housing-boss. That's why you want a capscrew about that 2" length...to allow for the depth of the new IAR. I place a drop of sewing machine oil in the boss, and carefully align the bearing to prevent canting and possible distortion on the way back in. Of the dozens so far, all is good.
(Many Abu reels don't have IAR, but are set up to take them, so in they go.)

 
« Last Edit: March 19, 2012, 02:06:20 PM by Ken_D » Logged
GulfOfBothnia
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« Reply #24 on: May 12, 2012, 10:00:29 PM »

Great tips in here!

Yesterday I changed IAR for the very first time... succesfully.
Took it out in vice as described in here.

I used reloading press to put IAR in the side plate.
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fishnetter
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« Reply #25 on: February 15, 2013, 08:23:19 AM »

Has anyone ever used the hydraulic method to remove bearings?  I have filled up a bearing cavity on vehicles with grease and used a rod that just fits in the bearing hole and used the grease as the force and popped the bearings out.  Never used it on a reel bearing yet but it works on vehicles with enclosed bearings.  Just a thought?? Huh?
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Ken_D
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« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2013, 06:40:12 PM »

Has anyone ever used the hydraulic method to remove bearings?  I have filled up a bearing cavity on vehicles with grease and used a rod that just fits in the bearing hole and used the grease as the force and popped the bearings out.  Never used it on a reel bearing yet but it works on vehicles with enclosed bearings.  Just a thought?? Huh?

Hi, it may work in reels with enclosed brgs, but in most abus, they are not enclosed. Some of the Penns are, tho.
Like the driveshaft bb on the 340 345's, and the spool bearing on the 330, in the side plate. But they come out easily enough w/o the aid of grease.
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