AX 300

[Scattergun2570]

So I dug out old reels I never junked..I'm sure no one serviced it.,so I figure why not? Anyway..this crosspin is stopping me from being able to get the rotor off..what can I do to get the pin out?

[foakes]

Just need to remove the entire spool shaft by opening up the sideplate and removing the pin, screw, or keeper holding the shaft in.

Remove the shaft — then the rotor will come off.

With most modern spinner disassemblies — pop off the spool — remove the crank handle — open up the sideplate — remove the spool shaft keeper — remove the rotor nut & rotor — then decide how much farther you plan on going.  All of this takes just a couple of minutes.

No need to remove the cross pin.

Best,

Fred

[Scattergun2570]

Just need to remove the entire spool shaft by opening up the sideplate and removing the pin, screw, or keeper holding the shaft in.

Remove the shaft — then the rotor will come off.

With most modern spinner disassemblies — pop off the spool — remove the crank handle — open up the sideplate — remove the spool shaft keeper — remove the rotor nut & rotor — then decide how much farther you plan on going.  All of this takes just a couple of minutes.

No need to remove the cross pin.

Ok ...I'll try it..thanks,,hope things are good on your end..R

Best,

Fred

[philaroman]

that's pretty much a permanent crossbar -- not a pin to be removed each service
reversed disassembly sequence: do the gearbox, first; pull the shaft out the top; get under the rotor, last
[NOTE: sometimes, because of extra grime or stupid design, you have to loosen the the nut & let the rotor dangle, before you can pry off the sideplate...  PITA, but still easier than trying to remove that "pin"]

[Scattergun2570]

that's pretty much a permanent crossbar -- not a pin to be removed each service
reversed disassembly sequence: do the gearbox, first; pull the shaft out the top; get under the rotor, last
[NOTE: sometimes, because of extra grime or stupid design, you have to loosen the the nut & let the rotor dangle, before you can pry off the sideplate...  PITA, but still easier than trying to remove that "pin"]

Thanks...the side plate came off easy...but I haven't disassembled yet..

[philaroman]

sorry, the "stupid design" dig applies to much later Malaysian rear-drag (Spirex?) -- not your reel

when you disassemble, go slow & take pics (esp. the rear drag) -- if I recall, there are parts you DON'T want to flip & the schematic is too fuzzy to show which way they go!

[Scattergun2570]

sorry, the "stupid design" dig applies to much later Malaysian rear-drag (Spirex?) -- not your reel

when you disassemble, go slow & take pics (esp. the rear drag) -- if I recall, there are parts you DON'T want to flip & the schematic is too fuzzy to show which way they go!

I've never been inside a rear drag reel,,maybe I should leave that part alone.

[philaroman]

1) best to take a look -- who knows what's in there after 30 yrs.?

2) if you leave it alone, the keyed parts will likely get misaligned after you take the spool shaft out -- might be tough to wiggle it back in

3) is exact model "AX 300Q"?  ...schematic is surprisingly clear, for an oldie: http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf
...and drag is an impressive 6-stack+1 -- upgrade to CF, and you get a BEAST

P.S., your older post mentioned you want braid; line-lay won't be great; IMO, go 40-50# so diameter is closer to intended mono line-class

[Scattergun2570]

1) best to take a look -- who knows what's in there after 30 yrs.?

2) if you leave it alone, the keyed parts will likely get misaligned after you take the spool shaft out -- might be tough to wiggle it back in

3) is exact model "AX 300Q"?  ...schematic is surprisingly clear, for an oldie: http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf
...and drag is an impressive 6-stack+1 -- upgrade to CF, and you get a BEAST

P.S., your older post mentioned you want braid; line-lay won't be great; IMO, go 40-50# so diameter is

closer to intended mono line-class


Actually,no it's an AX 300..I have an AX 300Q,,this is a bit different.

[philaroman]

very similar rear drags

also, I'm guessing both reels have plastic bushings on the main gear, which are prob. brittle after 30 yrs.

bearings (or brass bushings, for S/W) would be a nice upgrade

pretty sure it's the most common Shimano size (7 X 13 X 4 mm), but check

[Scattergun2570]

very similar rear drags

also, I'm guessing both reels have plastic bushings on the main gear, which are prob. brittle after 30 yrs.

bearings (or brass bushings, for S/W) would be a nice upgrade

pretty sure it's the most common Shimano size (7 X 13 X 4 mm), but check

Yes plastic bushings...I can't imagine these were expensive reels...wpyou would really consider adding bearings? I can't imagine these being worth much.

[philaroman]

if you're going to use the reels -- why not?  ...makes them smoother & stronger

guess I'm thinking from my own perspective: I have too many later models w/ dead gears & perfectly good bearings -- plenty of spares

I've also fixed & sold quite a few -- "upgraded to maximum bearing count" is a good selling point

[Scattergun2570]

if you're going to use the reels -- why not?  ...makes them smoother & stronger

guess I'm thinking from my own perspective: I have too many later models w/ dead gears & perfectly good bearings -- plenty of spares

I've also fixed & sold quite a few -- "upgraded to maximum bearing count" is a good selling point

Well, I will think about it,but the bearings will probably be worth more than the reel lol.
Anyway,I took the gearbox apart,and the first small issue..the end of the shaft running through the main gear,had some pretty significant burr,preventing me from sliding the bushing off. Sandpaper wrapped around it took care of that in about 10 seconds. So now that I have the bushings off,how do you degrease plastic parts? I use brake cleaner to degrease metal,but wouldn't use it on plastic. So what should I use?

[philaroman]

many options:

1) dishsoap + elbow grease    Dawn Power Clean + old tooth brush

2) Fred says, Simple Green -- I wouldn't doubt him

3) WD40 soak w/ thorough water rinse (WD40 residue degrades grease)

4) oil soak, but don't waste reel oil -- sewing machine oil is MUCH cheaper


...if "some pretty significant burr" was S/W pitting, DEFINITELY open/inspect rear drag

[Scattergun2570]

many options:

1) dishsoap + elbow grease    Dawn Power Clean + old tooth brush

2) Fred says, Simple Green -- I wouldn't doubt him

3) WD40 soak w/ thorough water rinse (WD40 residue degrades grease)

4) oil soak, but don't waste reel oil -- sewing machine oil is MUCH cheaper

...if "some pretty significant burr" was S/W pitting, DEFINITELY open/inspect rear drag

Ok ,but how should I approach disassembly of this section..not familiar at all with this type of system.