Cardinal drag clicker spring

[Whit]

Embedded onto two mounts (for rigidity) on the right sideplate on all Zebco Cardinals is a stiff straight spring that engages with a cog on the driveshaft and produces a line-out buzz.  The noise-maker function is similar to a spring loaded ratchet on the back of a traditional spool on a spinning reel.

Anyway, this spring is a weakpoint on Cardinals (along with plastic bail stopper and bail arm mounts).  The spring tend to break off flush with the rearmost mount.

Some schematics show the spring as a separate item from the sideplate, but every sideplate I have bought had the spring embedded in it already.

I see where a person could buy just a spring on ebay.  But how to remove the residue of the old one and install the new one?  And does the new one get glued in?

Any guidance appreciated.  

Thanks!

[PacRat]

You first need to remove what's left of the original spring. I either use wire-cutters or a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut the little stub of wire remaining between the lugs. These remnants of the original spring may or may not just fall out. Sometimes you will need a small needle nose plier to wiggle the little stubs out.
For the new spring; you can either purchase one on line or just pick up a piece of music wire and make your own. I'm not at home or I could tell you the diameter and length. Diameter is not as important as it will just change the tone of the click. Length is more important. I cut mine a little long then trim it to length once it's installed. If the spring is too short you will need to cut it and start over.
To install the spring I use a hard rubber matt and a punch. I put the wire between the two lugs and give it a couple whacks. You don't need to kill it as you could potentially damage the side-plate. If the wire rotates a bit, whack it again. The wire needs to be held firm for it to have a good clean click tone.
If you PM me your address, I'll send you some wire N/C. I can't get it in the mail until next week.
-Mike

[Midway Tommy]

Mike is correct. They only get week, though, if people continually bend them back and forth. They are a separate part. You can buy one or you can make your own out of same size stainless steel wire purchased from your local Ace or other hardware store. Wire size differs between the 3, 4 and 6/7. I have made many. The originals are crimped in between the two brackets on the side plate. They can be driven out with a small punch. I have replaced a few on used reels I have purchased. I just slide them through both holes and re-crimp them behind the rear post, then tap them into the hole. I have also crimped them between the holes, too, before tapping them forward. It's a simple procedure and you can buy a 24" piece of SS wire for what one spring costs on da'Bay.

[Whit]

Friends:

Thanks for your help.

Mike is generously sending me some wire. 

Reading the posts a bit closer I still don't quite get how to secure it in place once the old wire is removed.

With the new wire inserted into the pinholes, am I to clinch each of the pillars to tighten down on the wire itself?   

Thanks again!

[PacRat]

Do not clinch the pillars! This will likely ruin the side-plate. Insert the new wire through the pillars and then use a small punch or even a screwdiver and a hammer to give the new wire a couple of solid whacks right between the pillars. Be sure to support the side-plate with something soft but not too mushy. I use a piece of hard rubber that lays flat on my bench surface. You don't need to kill it but you need to strike it with enough force to bend the wire enough that it will stay put. Take a look at it and make sure that it is held solid and not able to spin at all. I haven't done a 6 or a 7 yet so the heavier wire I sent will likely take a harder strike to bend it. The angle of the long clicker end may change when staking it but you can bend it back and 'tune' it once it's done. I cut the wires a little long (you have two different diameters and three lengths). Once everything is situated (tight and at the correct angle) you can cut the tip back to the desired length. I do this by comparing it to a good one or you can put a little grease on your clicker gear then put the side-plate on and turn the spool. This will leave a bit of grease on the clicker wire so you'll know where to cut it. I just keep tweaking and tuning until I like the way it sounds. I think some people use to cut these off to make them silent but I like to know what's going on at the end of my line.
Good luck
-Mike

[Midway Tommy]

I cut mine to the correct length and file the ends flat prior to installing them. I have a mini pair of dikes (diagonal cutters) with the sharp cutting edge filed flat. I slide the wire through both posts with a little sticking out behind the rear post and then crimp the wire with my adapted crimping tool immediately behind each post. Then I stand the side plate on end and, with a hammer and flat bladed screwdriver, tap the wire down into the posts. That is the only way I have ever found to prevent the wire from spinning in the posts. You can also bend the wire between the posts as Mike suggested. I suggest you make sure the ends of the wire are flat, not pointed or sharp.     

[Whit]

Got it.  Thanks again Mike and Tommy!  When the wire gets here and I'm done hammering on things I'll issue an update!

Whit

[PacRat]

Tommy,
I'm very interested in your method. Would you please do some photos next time you do one? I've only done two myself and I don't recall where I got the advice.
-Mike