140/145/146 squidder

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:58:51 PM

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alantani

here's another old standard from penn.  the squidders continue to remain popular among long distance surf casters.  they also performs well for many inshore light tackle applications.  a single screw also allows you to remove the side plate and easily clean the reel or change spools.  



first, go to mysticparts.com for the schematics and parts lists.  for this particular rebuild post, i will be working off the 145 schematic.

140L - https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn140L.aspx

140L-LH - https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn140L_LH.aspx

145 - https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn145.aspx

146 - https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn146.aspx

what we're going to do with this reel is to hotrod it a little, with a jigmaster power handle (#24-56), a narrow frame and spool conversion kit https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/KIT140-146CK.aspx, a new set of three #6-60 drag washers inside the main gear, a new #6-113 drag washer under the main gear, and a stainless steel gear sleeve that was made up custom for me.  please note that this is not the same #98-60AT or #98-505AT stainless steel gear sleeve carried by mysticparts.com.  this was a limited run made by pete kolekar at my request.  there are only a few left.  



one of the nice features of this reel and the jigmaster is the take apart thumb screw (key #40).  turn the screw counterclockwise, lift this spring-loaded screw a little, then turn the entire left side plate counterclockwise and remove the right side plate assembly.  



we're now down to three pieces, the frame assembly, spool and right side plate assembly.  



we'll start by removing the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 39).



note that the post screws (key #39) are longer than the stand screws (key #32).  



grease the screw holes of the new frame posts (key #37) and new stand (key #30) and install them.  



remove the left side bearing (key #40).



pull out the bearing shield (no key #).  



the old bearing is toast.



a new bearing is a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172 in stainless steel.  it's going in degreased, lubed with corrosion x and left open.  



grab that ratty old toothbrush and brush on a light coat of grease.



a little on the spool (key #29L) as well.



there.  much nicer!



remove the right post (key #38) and stand (key #31) screws.  note that they are also of different lengths.



grease the screw holes and re-install the right side ring (key #2).



throw the spool in and set them both aside.



now for the right side plate assembly.  remove the handle lock screw (key #23a).  



remove the handle screw (key #23).





remove the handle (key #24) and note the damage to the top of the soft brass gear sleeve (key #98).



remove the star (key #10).



remove the spacing sleeve (key #9).



back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).



the bridge assembly will drop straight out.  note that the dog and dog spring came with it.  



this dog is a little different from the others.  it has a hole drilled into it and the spring rests inside making the installion much easier.  



here's the bridge (key #3) with the main gear (key #5), drag washers (key #'s 4, 6 and 7) and tension spring.





to remove the brass gear sleeve (key #98), push (or punch) out the retaining pin.  





install the new stainless steel gear sleeve and the retaining pin.  sometimes the pin sticks out a little.  just file it flat and the main gear should be able to slide over with no trouble.  



the first washer that goes under the main gear is a #6-113. a generous coat of cal's drag grease works well here.  



rebuild the gear stack with a generous coat of drag grease on all of the drag washers.  don't worry about the excess.  it will simply squeeze out the sides.  note that we will also be discarding the tension spring (key #8).  the extra thickness of the #6-113 drag washer underneath the main gear means that there is no room for the tension spring.  



now for the right side plate bearing.



our handy dandy bearing pulling tool will remove the bearing cover.



it will also remove the bearing (key #26).



this bearing was rusted as well.  this new bearing is also a 0.125 x 0.5 x 0.172.



let's line everything up.  



first, install the bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).  note that the screws that are threaded just at the tip go on top.  



your left index and middle finger cover the bridge screws.  the right side plate (key #1) is held between your left thumb and ring finger.  



now you can flip the side plate over with no risk of having the screws fall out.  



install the clutch springs (key #18).



install the pinion yoke (key #12) and pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.



install the eccentric jack (key #11).



install the bridge/main gear assembly, turned 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.



install the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) as a unit.  lay it down over the bridge screw and note that the dog spring sticks out too far.



press down on the bridge assembly with your left thumb.  use the blade of a small flat screwdriver to push the dog spring down into it's final position.  





rotate the bridge assembly 90 degrees clockwise and push it down into it's final position.



with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly over.  



start each bridge screw half way, then cinch down each screw until they are snug.  



verify that the freespool lever (key #21) works properly.



verify that the secondary freespool lever (key #21C) functions properly.  this lever allow the handle to turn backwards by disengaging the dog.



install the spacing sleeve (key #9).



install the star (key #10).



install the upgraded handle (key #24).  add a light coat of grease.



install the handle screw (key #23).



install the handle lock screw (key #23A).



press the right side plate assembly down into the right side ring (key #2) until it seats, turn the right side plate assembly clockwise until the take apart thumb screw (key #41) lines up with the threaded screw hole, and turn the thumb screw down until it seats.



congratulations!  you're done!



now, for a couple of comments.  honestly, there is no way that this upgrade was anywhere near worth the time and expense that was required.  but this was never about money, was it.  i know one thing for sure.  the new owner was a very proud and happy man.  personally, i much prefer the balance that the narrowed frame offers.  i like my reels "boxed out," having a spool that is as wide as it is tall.  with greased carbon fiber drag washers, this reel will deliver a maximum of 12-15 pounds of drag at the top of the spool.  the stock brass gear sleeve will start to round off at drag settings in excess of 8 pounds.  the stainless steel gear sleeve will easily hold up under 15 pounds of drag.  that means that this stainless steel gear sleeve is a worthwhile upgrade ONLY if you are going to fish a 10 pound drag setting with, say, straight 30# mono.  that works out well, because the gap between the spool and side plate rings can be so large that the reel will eat 25 pound mono or less.  it will also obviously eat spectra.  this is an important point.  this is not a spectra ready, or spectra worthy, reel.  

maintenance of this reel is very simple.  the screw holes and drag washers will be good forever.  it would be a simple matter to strip off all the line, take the reel apart, flush it out with a full blast of water from a hose, blow out the bearings with compressed air, lube the bearings with more corrosion x, reassemble the reel, spool it up with more 30# mono, reset the drag and set it aside for the next fishing trip.  if the bearings foul, you now know how to replace them.  other than a fresh water rinse and blow dry, only the bearings are at risk for failure.  if you are distance casting, you know that bearing maintenance is critical.


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

Quote


Alan – having read  some of the posts – wanted to throw in my experiences.  I fish old reels and old Harnell rods – the Harnells match the color of my boat-what can I say.  Use 65# Power pro on my narrow squiders, with the fine thread drag.  Have greased them – either by you or me.  On halibut – especially the larger ones at Bonita or the Bars, I have had great landing to hook up results.  Use a long rod, and keep the drag light during the fight, and always gaff any obviously legal fish.  Have also had some great long – 45 minute plus – fights with huge rays at Bonita, where the rod & drag wore them down – even when foul hooked on a wing or tail – more like fighting a Bull Redfish.  I am surprised you note the squidders ore not spectra ready as I have never had any problems.  My reels have mainly the plastic spools.

Also you  noted somewhere recently you had not rebuilt any 1/0 Senators – you did two for me a couple of years ago, and they are great with the greased drags.  Probably one of the most attractive old style reels.

Hope you are well – I have not been fishing enough.

Marc




marc, my memory is not what it used to be!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

sculpin1

Hi all,

I've been having a ball rebuilding my old Penn Squidders using Alan's tutorial as a guide.  I have made all of his suggested upgrades and even outfitted a couple with Tiburon frames and spools.  Recently I purchased a No. 140 on Ebay and noticed that the right side plate is retained on the reel by a ring with stamped "dimples" and riveted hard points instead of the staked steel lugs I'm used to seeing.  Seems to me that this change is inferior to the old method.  Can anybody tell me when this manufacturing change occurred??  I would love to find out before buying any others built like that.  Many thanks!

Mike Godward

alantani

yeah, i've seen those too.  they seem to work ok, but i share your concern.  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Gxnefishing

I wasn't sure if this is where my post should be but here we go. I just finished going through a older 140 with the chrome/steel spool. My question is on the spool itself. it appears to me that the spool is sitting to far into the handle side of the reel the clicker side is almost flush with the rim  maybe a little to far to the right towards the handle side. The bearing cup is backed off 1/4 of a turn from its "Bottomed" out point to achieve a slight rock. The spool spins like a top and almost forever. I didnt grease the bearings just a drop or 2 of Speed X. I believe its a product of corrision x its reallly good. I just was wondering if there is possibly something I put in backwards after alot of looking there really doesnt appear to be anything i could have done backwards. I thought I should have a little more adjustment on the bearing cup. The handle side is solid and doesnt seem to adjust. Is this normal to have the spool seem offcenter?

alantani

having the spool centered is probably the best.  a small shim washer in the bearing cup (underneath the bearing) should take care of that problem.  the trick is to fine a washer that will touch the outside race but not touch the inside race. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Alto Mare

Also, your clutch springs might be too soft. A new set might help.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Gxnefishing

#7
I thank you both for your quick responses, I think I will take it apart again and try a set of springs from another reel or pull these out a little before cutting and grinding on a washer. I assume were talking about the two that sit in the side plate and push up on the yoke.
revised:
ok well cancel that, I grabbed the gear with my pliers and it doesnt pull up any further than it already is. Thesprings are tight and it has plenty of resistance I will possibly take a washer and make it to fit once I get home. Ill update with the details once I get home from this lovely place some call Work.

Alto Mare

Correct! Pulling them out will help, but eventually you'll be right back to where you started. Test the spool by pulling the springs out, if it helps still get yourself a new set of springs.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

reelynuts

Is that reel purple or is it just a camera or lighting thing?

Irish Jigger

Quote from: sculpin1 on September 16, 2011, 04:50:10 PM
Hi all,

I've been having a ball rebuilding my old Penn Squidders using Alan's tutorial as a guide.  I have made all of his suggested upgrades and even outfitted a couple with Tiburon frames and spools.  Recently I purchased a No. 140 on Ebay and noticed that the right side plate is retained on the reel by a ring with stamped "dimples" and riveted hard points instead of the staked steel lugs I'm used to seeing.  Seems to me that this change is inferior to the old method.  Can anybody tell me when this manufacturing change occurred??  I would love to find out before buying any others built like that.  Many thanks!

Mike Godward

Hi Mike,
          Ordered a new Right Side Plate recently for a 500 Jigmaster which is similar to your Squidder. It has been "Value Engineered" with three pressed  location "dimples" around the circumference of the Inner Ring.  New stock, made in China!  ;)
Cheers,
          IJ.
         

broschro

Just did a 140, now that its back together it does not look like the sleeve for the drags , is sticking up far enough. Is this normal?

alantani

the star should have an under cut, so it should still work.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

broschro

Quote from: alantani on March 06, 2012, 05:10:20 PM
the star should have an under cut, so it should still work.
looks good can i put a longer sleeve in to get more out of drags ? in need of aluminum  spool for the 140

Panama

Quote from: broschro on March 06, 2012, 07:18:55 PM
Quote from: alantani on March 06, 2012, 05:10:20 PM
the star should have an under cut, so it should still work.
looks good can i put a longer sleeve in to get more out of drags ? in need of aluminum  spool for the 140
I have a chrome spool.  Let me know if you want it ..... Free!
Get on the water, Man!!!