Servicing a Sea Wonder 2070 FB

Started by sandbar, November 07, 2020, 09:00:46 PM

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sandbar

Hey guys
I'm tearing down a 2070 FB and ran into a couple of small parts that are a challenge for my giant fingers.
The spring on the throwout lever doesn't want to come off. It seems to fit it a groove on the bottom of the post and is flush with the inside of the casing. I don't want to damage it trying to remove it.
There is also a little tiny cotter pin(?) that holds on the non-reverse pawl that I am sure I can remove but I am not confident I could re-install without great difficulty. Any suggestions or encouragement would be appreciated.
-Steve

mo65

   There is really no need to remove those parts if they are fully functional...like you said...you'd stand a chance of damaging something. Just wash them off with soap and a toothbrush...she'll be good as new. 8)
~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


sandbar

#2
Thank You Mo.
I appreciate your input. I have enjoyed reading your posts.
I'm new at this and trying to live up to Fred's high standards. I know he is correct in saying all parts need to be removed and cleaned and lubricated in order to do a proper service. My mindset is like his but my skills currently are not. I just might try to get the pawl removed because I think I can.
I'm also having trouble removing the bearing from the pinion. It is named in the parts list as an assembly and not separate parts. I think I'm done banging on it and will just soak it in lacquer thinner with all the other metal parts and repack it with grease/oil. They may not be meant to be serviced separately.
-Steve

oc1

It sounds like a challenge.  The trouble with breaking everything down as far as it will go is that when you finally get through you are only back where you started.  Not much satisfaction in that.  If it ain't broke then don't bother to fix it.
-steve

mo65

Quote from: sandbar on November 07, 2020, 11:04:38 PM
I'm also having trouble removing the bearing from the pinion.

   Ideally...yes...the best servicing is always a complete tear down. BUT, sometimes taking the chance of damaging a piece or part that is not readily available just isn't necessary, as long as the part can be completely cleaned without removal.  Like that stuck pinion...if it cleans up nicely and turns smooth...there is no need to tax your skills trying to remove it. Now if it's toast...hammer away on it...learn how remove one.  8)
~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


sandbar

Thanks.
I hear you guys.
They say discretion is the better part of valor.
I decided to clean these parts in place as advised.
Looks pretty clean for a reel made in the 50's.
Now on to the pinion/bearing issue.

sandbar

When I first received this reel the handle would not move in either direction. I wish I had taken a picture of the inside when I removed the side plate. The grease was like concrete.

sandbar

Here are all the parts cleaned and ready for assembly.

sandbar

I need to get clear on which parts should be greased and which should be oiled for the best performance and longevity.
There seems to be differences of opinion.
I oiled the bearings first and then packed them with grease.
I know the drag washers get grease and the gears also.
Bail spring and parts ?
Bail trip lever?
Clicker and spring?
Pawl Assembly?
Anti reverse ?
Spool shaft?
Looking for some guidance please.
Thank You
-Steve

Gfish

What's up sandbar!?
Spool shaft = oil
All other parts you mentioned = oil + grease mix
Also, I'd "paint" marine grease on all interior surfaces and into screw holes.
These are what I do, others may know better.
Looks alot like my Pflueger Sea Star 1050.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

sandbar

#10
Hey G
Thank You for the advice.
I got 'er done. My first almost total rebuild. It feels good to take a reel that wouldn't crank and turn it in to a smooth running machine. I've got a long way to go but I'm feeling it.
I'd like to learn how to do a tutorial like you experienced guys do. I have a larger model in this series, the 2090, that I'm going to do next. I'll take better pictures and maybe I'll attempt a newbie tutorial on it.
-Steve

foakes

Excellent job, Steve!

That reel was manufactured in 1959 — solid 61 year old reel.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

happyhooker

If the drag washers (friction) are leather (like the later Maroons), I believe oil is the preferred lube, perhaps neatsfoot oil.

Frank

sandbar

Thank You for the encouragement Fred.
I'm liking this hobby. I hope to get proficient at it someday.

Frank,
I think the drag washers are leather.
I'm new at this and they weren't a familiar looking material.
They were very flexible, probably leather if that's what is OEM for this reel.
I don't think it was serviced very often. The grease was petrified.
I coated them with Reel Defense brand grease. It's what I had and is fairly liquid for a grease. I'll probably use Penn Blue grease and Super Lube on the 2090 that's next up. Cal's drag grease is on the wish list
-Steve

oc1

Quote from: sandbar on November 09, 2020, 01:05:41 AM
I'll take better pictures and maybe I'll attempt a newbie tutorial on it.

Uh, I think you just did a tutorial.  It's only a matter of the amount of detail included.  Sometimes, the amount of detail becomes overwhelming and the important stuff gets lost.
-s