Yet another grease - Which grease for Brake Caliper Ears

[Gobi King]

The white stuff is coming down tomorrow, that is my queue to get my Honda Ridgeline buttoned up for winter use.

The brake calipers keep sticking and I am guessing the brake caliper ears have rust which is causing this.

What grease do you use on the brake caliper EARS?

Whatever honda dealer used washed out and stopped working after 1 season, arrrgh.

Will this work?

https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-4/?

[Crow]

Yup !  I, personally, have always used "never seize" (the original 'silver colored').  It's a Permatex product, as well...and probably the same stuff

[Lalo13]

For that application a marine grease is probably your best option . Specially if you are one of those pressure wash my rims demon type . It resist salt , water and car wash demons as well .

[PacRat]

Gobi,
The grease in your link is good stuff. I use a very similar product and have had good results. It stays put and holds up well to saltwater.
-Mike

[Gobi King]

Thanks guys,

I am going to take them out later this week, I have a height issue, my jack does not lift high enough,

Pics of the metal liners between pad and calipers.

[Gfish]

Whoa dude! So, they're salting the roads up there, huh?

[Crow]

Ouch !

[Gobi King]

Whoa dude! So, they're salting the roads up there, huh?

just a little 

I have new brackets I believe
I might just replace the brackets, let's see how they are,

[Brewcrafter]

Shibley - Depending on the supplier of the shoes, usually those metal sliders, hardware, etc are part of the package.  Of course, living where I do generally they don't look like that when the pads are worn and replaced 

[Gobi King]

I was being silly about the salt.
Where I live in MI, we get about 190 inches of snow on average,
Salt is on our roads many months of the year.

This truck is a 2007, I used it in winter mostly, the brakes were worked on the dealer 1.5 years back. They are sticking again.

I found this on the  while internetting,

Crow, this guy says anti seize is not recommended for brake calipers




Main Rust concern is between the caliper bracket and guide plate, especially after I file it and clean it to expose virgin metal.

[Gobi King]

Shibley - Depending on the supplier of the shoes, usually those metal sliders, hardware, etc are part of the package.  Of course, living where I do generally they don't look like that when the pads are worn and replaced 

I have a couple of complete calipers sitting in my shop, can't remember if they are the fronts or rear, I could steal the metal sliders from those :-)

but i think the sliders are fine, it is rust below them that is pushing and locking the pads.

[Bryan Young]

The sliders are normally stainless steel and should be fine. I clean up all contact parts with a dremel with a SS wire wheel and apply anti-Sieze grease on those contact parts.

I have been doing this since I was a little tyke following in my dad's footsteps when working on cars. I also add anti-sieze on the hub but not not the lugs. I don't want the wheel to stick to the hub. I don't want the lugs st get loose dur to the lubrications.

Let me watch the YouTube on the guy not recommending anti-sieze

Oh, I see. I use brake formulated anti-seize grease. Not just ordinary anti-seize. Normal anti-seize does not have a high enough temperature rating and will bake and get sticky.

[Crow]

    We're on the island, now, so I can't check the can, but I'm *sure ?* the Never-Seize ' i use is the "regular" (red can...thick composition....mixed with "aluminum"flakes....darn near impossible to wash off your hands, or tools) not sure of the "heat rating", but we always used in on turbo bolts, muffler clamps, etc. I know they also have formulations for stainless steel fasteners, and one for brass, or copper fasteners. Anyway, I've always had good luck with their products, so I'm sure their "brake formula" is excellent, as well. As Bryan said, clean everything up, as best you can, lube the area UNDER the slide, as well as the ears on the bad.............Just had a thought, I'll bet they are 'worried ' about the metal "flakes' getting on the brake pad surface ! as i said, it's almost impossible to get that stuff off, and on the porous brake material...it IS impossible, so........be careful where you put ANY lube, on your brakes !  Grease,or oil, on the pads, shoes (or clutch) surfaces causes them to be "grabby" when they are cold (as when first applied), and then "slippery' when they "heat up"

   By the way, Gobi...Ceder Point REALLY got hammered this year !  Not much left but pilings!

[Gobi King]

Crow, that very unfortunate for Ceder Point, I wonder if the local fishermen will start a gofundme for them,
They were decimated few years back, I am afraid at this rate they just might go under.

I have the permatex anti seize,
Yes, I am most concerned about the metal under the stainless steel slide brackets. Gotcha, yeah we don't want grease brakes :-)
I am going to take em off today, more pics  later today.

[oc1]

Crow, that very unfortunate for Ceder Point, I wonder if the local fishermen will start a gofundme for them,
They were decimated few years back, I am afraid at this rate they just might go under.

You have to wonder if privately owned piers are a thing of the past.  The state or county can afford to rebuild after every storm (albeit they take forever).  I doubt that a private company could afford either insurance or rebuilding these days.  Since the pier has been through the permitting process or is grandfathered they could try to give it to the government in exchange for being able to operate it as a concession.  Fishing piers are for the public good and always have a lot of public support.
-steve