alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial tld 20/25
Fishing Reel Repair by Alan Tani
May 24, 2013, 07:11:59 PM *
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Author Topic: tld 20/25  (Read 28712 times)
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #45 on: April 14, 2012, 10:20:03 AM »

The spinning shaft/know will not damage the reel at all.  The whole assembly floats on bearings.  Let us know how it turns out.
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nagz
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« Reply #46 on: April 14, 2012, 10:42:00 PM »

All sweet now. Unfortunately I chewed up the dial a fair bit with multigrips due to corrosion sealing the spring between the dial and the other element.
Going to be tricky to clean up
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robmacgregor
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« Reply #47 on: April 17, 2012, 02:00:02 AM »

Hi Alan my tld 20 gets harder to wind the more drag I set can't seem to fix any ideas on how to fix
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #48 on: April 17, 2012, 06:05:19 AM »

Sounds like the pinion bearing (the bearing mounted in the right side plate) is bad, and should be replaced with a greased packed new bearing.
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alantani
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« Reply #49 on: April 17, 2012, 09:19:18 AM »

yup, bad right main side plate bearing.....   Undecided
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robmacgregor
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« Reply #50 on: April 17, 2012, 04:29:44 PM »

thanks will give that a go
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boogie
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« Reply #51 on: April 20, 2012, 08:58:51 AM »

Hi i want to order the pre program dial on a TLD20 the number on the schematics i found are 0009 and 0050 ,this is the cross pin on the spool shaft, but those numbers dont match anny criteria on the sites i tried, it seems all shimano parts now beggin with BNT?  thoes anny one know how can i order them? thankyou.
Saludos.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #52 on: April 20, 2012, 10:03:27 AM »

If you call or email shimano, you can give them the original part number and for what reel it's for and they can do the cross reference.  It's very common for me when I'm ordering parts from Shimano.
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alantani
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« Reply #53 on: April 20, 2012, 03:51:02 PM »

shimano's phone number is 877-577-0600. 
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boogie
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« Reply #54 on: April 20, 2012, 04:05:13 PM »

thankyou.
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coores14
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« Reply #55 on: April 25, 2012, 05:27:52 PM »

I just serviced two 25's and I did the masking tape on the drag plate trick. Worked great, took out all of the slop.  I did it because...well...Alan said so.  But what exactly does taking out all of that play achieve? Will it make any difference with the amount of drag?
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JGB
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« Reply #56 on: April 25, 2012, 08:12:21 PM »

Taking the play out of the drag plate allows a slightly higher drag setting while still maintaining complete free spool even if the reel is tilted. Sleeving or shimming will also improve the max drag with complete freespool. Together they produce a well tuned reel with great free spool and drag over the stock versions.
Please do note that if you use a soft material to shim the drag plate that the shim material will compress over time when high drag settings are used. Alan and I prefer using thin metal shims to prevent this. It is also possible to reform the thick bellville behind the plate so there is no shim required ( this is what I do). To do this requires a hydraulic press and forms to allow one to make the belleville deeper.

Jim N.
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Westii
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« Reply #57 on: May 13, 2012, 10:14:22 AM »

Added the extra belleville and the drag pressure plate shim, per the tutorial.  Now, when shifting the lever from strike back to free, the spool does not always go back into freespool.  It is obviously catching on something.  Seems to be more of a problem at higher drag settings.  Any ideas on what I may have done wrong or what to check to fix the problem?  I already took it back apart and everything seems to be in proper order.
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alantani
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« Reply #58 on: May 13, 2012, 12:53:42 PM »

most commonly the spool shaft hangs up somewhere.  the common culprits are the left side plate, the spool bearings, and the cam. 
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Westii
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« Reply #59 on: May 13, 2012, 01:17:27 PM »

Thanks.  I'll check those areas next.  I'm assuming I need to make sure the spool shaft is oiled and the left side plate and cam areas are properly greased?
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