broschro
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« on: May 10, 2012, 11:30:21 AM » |
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Will I did it again  Went out this past weekend and did not put the scales on the drags to test. Drags were set to tight and snap big fish gone  If I’m using 50 lb# braid main line and 50 fluorocarbon leader what should I set my drags at? Also should I use 80 or 100 # fluoro  I’m using my 113 h with greased carbon drags any one? I did catch some nice flounder with the 505 :)we were fishing in 65 ft around rooks and coral.
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akfish
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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2012, 11:46:07 AM » |
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AS a general rule, set the drag at no more than 25% - 33% of the breaking strength of the line, so something like 15# of drag with 50# line is max.
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2012, 11:46:51 AM » |
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Where is the line breaking? At the knot? It possibly could be the knot and not the line. Good knots where the line does not criss cross cutting itself takes practice. I've tied a bunch of knots and when I re-inspected them, 50% had to be re-tied. Now, I take my time tying knots and have to re-tie maybe 1%-5% at most.
Assuming that you are using knots that are 90%-100% of line strength, I would sent my drags at 18# on the rod angled at a 45 deg., or 15# at the reel only. Whether you use heavier leader has it pluses and minuses based on type of fishiing. If you are live-bating, the lighter the leader the better. If trolling, it doesn't matter much of the line thickness.
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john2244
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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2012, 01:22:16 PM » |
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I agree with AKFISH (Bill) 15# max. But, I never start out fishing with max drag. When flylining live bait I like to start with a lighter drag setting knowing I can move up. I would probably start out fishing 8 to 10# of drag and move up if needed. This may not be the way most people do it but it is the way I like to fish. Also, as the fish is taking line your drag # is increasing. If you are fishing 50# line and have your drag set at 15# with a full spool of line you will have approx. 22# of drag with a half spool of line. With a near empty spool of line your drag will now be in the range of 42# of drag. But, if I am yo-yo fishing for yellowtail then I will start with a heavy drag so I can stop the fish before he cuts me off in the rocks.
John
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 03:19:35 PM by john2244 »
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broschro
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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2012, 02:10:15 PM » |
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Where is the line breaking? At the knot? It possibly could be the knot and not the line. Good knots where the line does not criss cross cutting itself takes practice. I've tied a bunch of knots and when I re-inspected them, 50% had to be re-tied. Now, I take my time tying knots and have to re-tie maybe 1%-5% at most.
Assuming that you are using knots that are 90%-100% of line strength, I would sent my drags at 18# on the rod angled at a 45 deg., or 15# at the reel only. Whether you use heavier leader has it pluses and minuses based on type of fishiing. If you are live-bating, the lighter the leader the better. If trolling, it doesn't matter much of the line thickness.
Knots are driving me crazy! What is the best not to use with 50 to 60# floro I do bottom and flat line fishing. I always cinch the knot down good on my work bench.
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redsetta
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« Reply #5 on: May 10, 2012, 03:03:43 PM » |
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G'day broschro, There are options aplenty and everyone has their favourites. The choice also depends what you're fishing for, how and where etc. As a starting point, however, the Uni is an easy-to-tie, good-quality knot for most applications. http://www.animatedknots.com/uniknot/index.phpDon't forget to moisten the knot before cinching it down. Good luck, Justin PS The Palomar is also an easy, reliable knot which retains a high degree of line strength. http://www.animatedknots.com/palomar/index.php.
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« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 03:12:13 PM by redsetta »
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2012, 05:05:01 PM » |
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Palmer knot is a good easy knot. Make sure that the line does not cross over itself or it will loose at least 25% of it's knot strength. My first try, 15# test broke at 10#s. The prostaffer showed me my errors and retied and was able to get 17-21#.
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wallacewt
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2012, 08:50:14 PM » |
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you know this is one of the reasons i mainly use lever drag reels. aside from the knots, you can set the drag at 33% but only use the lever drag 1/2 way to strike,or just engage,strike or the full monty. simple method without changing the drag knob. not like eggbeaters or star drags. trolling is a good e.g. set on strike for hook up then ease lever back for the fight
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Normslanding
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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2012, 03:38:12 AM » |
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Hi, I will try to base this on your original statement. Spectra to mono, or Fluorocarbon knot strength is usually in the 74% range. So if you go up one size in you Spectra 40 mono with 50 Spectra , this approaches the rated mono, or Fluoro strength. The knots in Spectra are the weak link. That is not a bad but a simplistic solution. There are many variables, hollow or solid Spectra, type of connection, ability of the person making the connection. Notice I did not use the word KNOT. There are several connection methods in Hollow Spectra that produce a 100% connection of the actual breaking strength of the weakest material. Also was mentioned was heavier mono/Fluoro attached to Spectra might be tried. This is usually used as a leader application, and is best used for toothy critters, or abrasion. As you tie a hook/lure on the heavier mono the weak link is the Spectra connection. There is always a weak link. There are several great knots to tie hooks, etc. on mono/ Fluoro the one the wins contests is the one tied on the best piece of mono. So I ask guys do you want a 100% knot at the hook? If so do you care if you loose 20,30,40 bucks of Fluorcarbon, or a two dollar hook. Back to your frustration, Assuming you are using solid Spectra go up one size in Spectra Tie a double Uni with about 4 turns in the mono, and 8 in the Spectra. If that gives you a problem going thru the guides learn to tie a 16 turn Albright. A lift time and a very large book can be written on the subject. Hope this rambling helps.
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Keta
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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2012, 05:33:29 AM » |
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If I'm forced to tie knots for my mono/Fluro to Spectra connections it is usually a double uni. I prefer hollow Spectra and knotless connections.
I don't use a drag scale for setting drags on star drag reels often and do it by feel, one of these days it will cost me a fish. When I do use a scale it's as 30% of stated line strength, or rod rating if I'm fishing heavy for rod line.
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Molon Labe Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem. A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. Mark Twain
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broschro
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« Reply #10 on: May 11, 2012, 05:56:26 AM » |
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Thanks guys I’m using 50#braid to 50 or 60# leader fluorocarbon or big game. I tie the main line to leader using the uni .the last time this happened I had the hook on with the uni snel l. I think I will go with the Palomar knot next.
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Keta
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« Reply #11 on: May 11, 2012, 06:15:25 AM » |
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Your leader should be lighter than your braid so you don't leave braid behind when you break off.
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Molon Labe Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem. A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way. Mark Twain
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Brendan
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« Reply #12 on: May 12, 2012, 06:27:35 AM » |
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Must have been the moon, I broke off on 40 pound last weekend myself. I test knots, tie and retie, check drags with scale, and still get my heart broken by a stupid mystery fish. At least my spectra knot held. Tight lines, Brendan.
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broschro
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« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2012, 06:35:36 AM » |
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Must have been the moon, I broke off on 40 pound last weekend myself. I test knots, tie and retie, check drags with scale, and still get my heart broken by a stupid mystery fish. At least my spectra knot held. Tight lines, Brendan.
I will cheek with the scale for now on! Lost two big something or others back to back using big live grunts for bait. hate the feeling when you are buckled over and snap 
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« Last Edit: May 14, 2012, 08:17:46 AM by broschro »
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alantani
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« Reply #14 on: May 12, 2012, 07:05:14 AM » |
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jamie, i use a 5-turn uni knot for mono and a palomar for fluorocarbon. the palomar has 2 lines aroud the eye of the hook or swivel. it is important that those two lines do not cross over each other. if you do, you will cut the strength of the palomar down to 50%.
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« Last Edit: May 12, 2012, 07:05:58 AM by alantani »
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