lubricants

[mandaragat]

izak, here is where i'm at now......


TSI 301 -  this is the expensive stuff.  i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance.  this stuff is slicker 'n snot!  it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping.  the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened.  and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle.   now remember, TSI 321 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry. 

Hey Alan,

I'm sure this is a typo. You mean to say "TSI 301".

[alantani]

oops!  thanks, i fixed it!!!!!!   

[MuskyFishing]

izak, here is where i'm at now......


TSI 301 -  this is the expensive stuff.  i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance.  this stuff is slicker 'n snot!  it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping.  the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened.  and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle.   now remember, TSI 321 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.  

Hey Alan,

I'm sure this is a typo. You mean to say "TSI 301".

So I take it, That the 301 Is for the bearings, DRAG DISCS, And level wind part. (right?) .  
But for EXTERNAL level wind shaft, I use the YAMAHA BLUE, Right?

Mr Tani, Thank you for not letting my constant questions get on your nerves.  I am new, as I explained.  
Thank you so much for all your help.

[MuskyFishing]

izak, here is where i'm at now......

cal's drag grease - without this stuff, nothing works.  nothing.  absolutely nothing.  having a smooth drag system from this combination of a carbon fiber drag washer and teflon grease changes everything.  it amazes me that a reel would even be sold without a greased carbon fiber drag.  the fact that every reel manufacturer save one has switched over is a final admission that this system works.  yet they still sell reels that have cheaper drag systems because they can get away with it.  so cal's grease is 100% pure teflon and i use it for carbon fiber drags only.  i've seen it thicken when used on other parts of the reel and i think it is hygroscopic, meaning it absobs water.  not a good thing.  plus, it's moderately expensive at $7 per ounce or $25 per pound and i go through easily a pound every month!  so i use it on drags only.  

yamaha marine grease - this is hydrocarbon based grease that should have excellent salt water resistant properties.  i say "should" because i have no idea what makes a grease salt water resistant.  i am going to have to trust the chemists at yamaha to know what they're doing.  other marine greases should work just as well, but i prefer this stuff because it is the cheapest and it stays blue forever.  i can open a reel in 20 years and still see blue grease.  red grease turns black, other greases cost more.  that's why i use this stuff as an all purpose grease.  at at $7 for a 14 ounce tube, it's cheap.  don't use it on drag washers because it will make them stick.

reel x- my favorite thing about reel x is the dropper bottle.  it's great!  but at $7 per bottle, i will refill it with corrosion x that costs $17 per pint, basically $1 per ounce.  i am told by the company that the difference between reel x and corrosion x is that reel x has more of their mystery lubricant in it.  that's why it costs 6-7 times more.  it is no doubt worth the cost and can be used with confidence, but for a high priced bearing lube, i prefer tsi.

corrosion x - i refill my reel x bottles with corrosion x and use corrosion x as an all purpose oil.  at a little more than a buck an ounce, i love this stuff!!!!!  i reach for corrosion x first, anytime i want to oil something.  it's cheap and works great.  i use it specifically for AR bearings.  i do not want to use the slicker TSI products because i'm afraid that the TSI products will cause the AR bearings to slip.  i also keep corrosion x in aerosol cans to spray down my rods and reels after a long range trip.  if you are looking for one oil and want to balance cost, performance and versatility, get corrosion x.  

TSI 301 -  this is the expensive stuff.  i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance.  this stuff is slicker 'n snot!  it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping.  the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened.  and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle.   now remember, TSI 301 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.  

TSI 321 - this is actually a better bargain than reel x and it's cheaper.  reel x is $7 for a once ounce bottle.  TSI 321 is $8 for a 4 ounce bottle.  that makes it twice the price of corrosion x but much cheaper than reel x.  and remember how TSI 301 is only 10% of that mystery lubricant?  well, TSI 321 is 100% of that lubricant.  it's easy to ship and easy to divide up into smaller plastic bottles.  my only concern is that it might be too slick for AR bearings, but that is just a concern at this point.  it's not something i've had a problem with.  i can tell you that using TSI 301 and TSI 321, i have spool bearings in my long range reels that were treated 3 years ago and the spools still spin like crazy!  

and that is where i am currently at!  

[/quote]
For BEARING packing, Do I use the YAMAHA blue, or the '321' 100% secret stuff?  Im worried to use the '301' on the level-wind shaft BC the shaft is very close to the level wind BODY, and that body is plastic.

I do though, have machinegun oil that is polymer safe, and is non toxic, It's called EWL made by SLIP2000. They also make grease.
Now I understand that machinegun grease is designed to not burn at high temps, And that REEL greases are designed for the non corrosive properties.   I always tend to worry about the long term "what-if".

[MuskyFishing]

Questions

For BEARINGS:
YAMAHA blue, OR TSI321? 

For level-wind:
I'm planning to use the YAMAHA on the level-wind gear (shaft) is that ok?

[alantani]

tsi 321!

[MuskyFishing]

tsi 321!

Thank You

[maxpowers]

have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings?  Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.

[alantani]

i wish i knew how much of that was real and how much was marketin hype. 

[amoebasurgeon]

What would I mix 100-ISO Polyolester oil with so I can use it on spool bearings without damaging graphite or other plastics on reels I'm servicing? Or does it not damage plastics or graphite in its original state? 

[Shark Hunter]

have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings?  Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.

Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.

That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works!

[amoebasurgeon]

have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings?  Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.

Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.

That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works!

Quint would have been envious of this gear; especially the custom aluminum handle arms and the A.T. handles that would have fared well on his famous 16/0 Penn Senator.

[johndtuttle]

yea, to the above posts about what to mix with this or that and is it plastic safe etc etc....

To paraphrase Alan in previous posts he uses Yamaha Marine Grease because it is readily available, relatively light among Marine bearing greases and yet is sticky enough and does the job. ANY Marine grease that is convenient for you is outstanding for protecting your reel, some is lighter or stickier than others.

Corrosion-X has been a staple for many because it is readily available (often found in Tackle Stores) and is known to be plastic safe and mix well with other greases as a lightener. It is also safe on Monofilament! This is why it universally gets used any and everywhere (except drag washers) and to even wipe down a reel with at the end of the day. Cheap enough. Awesome on the outside of a reel as it picks up less schmutz than grease (knobs, line rollers, rotors, level-winds, levers, handles).

Corrosion-X HD is a spray that can be used to quickly coat surfaces for long term protection. Corrosion-X grease is hard to find and probably outstanding protection in "non-speed" applications.

Cals Drag Grease is totally proven (also mixes well with Corrosion-x, ie Accurate uses this blend in their AR Bearings). It can be used anywhere in the reel, but may be too sticky or too pricy for general use depending on your taste.

TS1 is a miracle performance lube for bearings but "is safe for most plastics"...proceed as you will, each reel has to be looked at in this light.

Sal loves his Valvoline Red thinned with Brake Fluid, Penn Precision Grease is an outstanding light marine grease as well that comes in a compact package that is convenient for individual guys. These lighter greases and "mixes" are preferred for spinning reels. Penn Grease is doubling as drag grease from the Penn Factory on HT-100 drags and should be fine on spinners and smaller conventionals at least that use this drag material. Jury is out for truly big game reels.

etc etc. YMMV No need to take a flier on some wacky new stuff unless for fun and exploration. Unlikely that the general properties of the stuff outlined above is going to be improved on much.

TL;DR Grease on the inside, Drag Grease on Drags and Oil on the outside for protecting your reel. As long as it is plastic safe just about anything will do.


ps I tried re-inventing the wheel with Dupont Marine Grease but it dries more quickly and leaves a bit of a chalky residue that is not to my taste fwiw.

[Shark Hunter]

have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings?  Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.

Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.

That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works!

Quint would have been envious of this gear; especially the custom aluminum handle arms and the A.T. handles that would have fared well on his famous 16/0 Penn Senator.

No Aluminum here. Stainless and Steel!

[amoebasurgeon]

No Aluminum here. Stainless and Steel!


You're kidding! Those are some beautifully machined handle arms. Did you make them yourself?