112H HOTROD

Started by saltydog, October 02, 2012, 03:28:36 AM

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Dynamo

Sweet reel! Great work on the double dogs.

floating doc

Back to the double dogs on these 112H side plates: what did you make the spring from?  I tried to cut a SS razor blade, but it was far too brittle. I just broke when I tried to bend it.
Central Florida

Bunnlevel Sharker

Hey Doc, use one from a disposable head
Grayson Lanier

floating doc

Central Florida

saltydog

I go to the hobby store and get small brass sheets to cut my springs.
Remember...."The soldier above all other people prays for peace, for he
must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war!" Douglas
MacArthur

garking84

Does anyone know where I could get ss gears for my 112 h.

Keta

Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

garking84

Keta , thanks for the info really appreciate it

garking84

Hello, I'm almost finished upgrading my 112h all I need is the ss hardened yoke 12-500. I believe it uses the same yoke as a jigmaster, because I got 1 a couple months ago for my jigmaster just can't remember where I bought it from. Does anyone have 1 available or know where I could find one.


floating doc

I bought mine from smoothdrag. I had to sand it down a bit since the stainless ones are a bit thicker than the brass ones. It only took a minute or two.
Central Florida

garking84

Floating doc, I just checked smoothdrags website and they do have the yoke listed. I send them an email to see if they have any available, just waiting for reply.

Thanks.

trond_solem

Just finished double-doging my 112h.
I won't use it for shark fishiing, so I chose to use alternating dogs.
The new dog was made from a stainless washer of suitable thickness. I made it longer than the orignal and with a slight curve so that it clicks into the ratchet about 180 degrees from the orignal. It can't be too long, because that will make the geometry wrong and the dog is pushed out of position under load. The angle between a line through the center of the bolt that holds the dog, through the nose of the dog and a line from the nose of the dog and through the center of the ratchet must be more than 90 degrees.
I managed to get it slightly over 95 degrees so it is pushed against the ratchet under load.
The original dog was shortened about 1mm to make them alternate in a useable way.
I used a strip from a razorblade as spring for the new dog. I used the dremel to cut a slot for the spring with a notch in the end where the end of the spring is hooked into.
I bent it in a rather sharp curve at the dog end. This make it a bit more powerful. The slot for the spring is completely covered by the bridge when installed.
I am sorry I didn't take any photos of this, but have a look at the photos others have published and use a bit of imagination and you will get the idea.

trond_solem

#57
Since the handle end of the gear sleeve is unsupported it would be preferale to support it with a roller bearing of some sort.
My idea is to make a aluminium support plate that bolts to the side plate with longer bridge screws.
Machine the side plate flat, except where the spool bearing bushing and the oiler are located and enlarge the hole around the gear sleeve.
Make a aluminium bearing holder plate of suitable thickness according to the drawing below. A thickness of 8mm is quite possible. On my reel there is 8.8mm from the side plate to the underside of the drag star.

Use short steel sleeves in the orginal screw holes that extends a bit into the alu-plate from the underside to locate it in place. Use longer bridge screws to hold it in  place on the side plate and hold the bridge.  the hole for the roller bearing have to be made to fit the selected bearing and a spacing sleeve that fits the bearing and sits quite thight around the gear sleeve has to be made. A OD of 22mm is quite possible.
In this way, the drag star wont push on the roller bearing and the bearing will support the sideways load on the gear sleeve.

It requres a bit of work, but not more than you can do with a hack saw, drill press and a file. Ideally you have a milling machine to reduce the required amount of elbow grease.


jonnou

good luck Looks like you have been thinking
anti reverse bearing maybe??

trond_solem

Quote from: jonnou on November 11, 2014, 04:27:28 AM
good luck Looks like you have been thinking
anti reverse bearing maybe??

No. That will require that you can lock the gear sleeve to the inner ring.
My idea has no such locking. It's just the pressure from the drag star that locks the inner ring/spacer sleeve. You don't need a stronger locking since we don't try to use it as anti-reverse locking.
The inner ring/spacer sleeve will rotate with the handle since it is pressed against the top of the drag stack and the uppermost metal there is locket to the gear sleeve.

I have found several needle bearings that may be used. some are just 8mm wide and some are 10mm wide. With an ID of 12mm and an OD of 16mm there is no problem making the spacer sleeve and the hole in the aluminium bearing holder block without running into problems with insuffcient metal anywhere.

This idea can be adopted for other reels where the gear sleeve needs support on the handle end. The 49 and 149 reels are candidates. Jigmaster 500 is also a reel that may benefit from this.

Anyone with a milling machine and some time to spend?