basic maintenance daiwa saltiga dogfight

[hafnor]

I know there is another saltiga rebuild out there but I thought I would share the dogfight. It isn't that thorough but I know alot of guys fear opening this high end reels but they're not that hard to work at. I wanted to make it run a little lighter so I lubed it very ligthly including the bearings with a thin synthetic reel oil from penn (blue in colour)

sorry for the bad pictures, hopefully you get the point.



remove the rubber band holding the retainer pin (the pin sits very loosely so be careful not to loose it) then carefully push the pin out.




once you have removed the rubber band retainer and retainer pin you can slide the spool sleeve straight off of the spoolshaft. there is a spoolbearing (this will be packed with grease) following and the clicker mechanish along with the spool shims and at the bottom push out the second retainer pin.
in alligned order:



now lets detach the rotor nut key to access the main body. It is secured by a oversized rotor nut with a seal inside the seal lock ring which is attached by two smaller star screws and one security screw that goes into the rotor for securing the allignement of the rotor nut



on top after removing the metal ring  there is a rubber gasket keeping the bearing waterproof. inside the one piece rotor nut screw there is a bearing and in the inner race there is a plastic tube. The bearing is to be lubed with light synthetic oil.

in alligning order:



once that is removed the rotor goes off easily in one piece. there is a inserted rubber seal on top and underneath the spool sitting close to the spool shaft. Be careful not to loose one of those, they stick quite good inside the ingravings but be aware (can't see this in the pictures)



underneath the rotor you will access the instant anti reverse roller bearing, but before that you have to unscrew the stainless steel protection cage. This is screwed directly onto the main body and is unscrewed by hand. there is also a large bearing cup and a rubber band seal. In alligned order:



once this is removed you access the instant anti reverse roller bearing and the AR sleeve that is cut square inside to fit the rotor shaft. The AR has grooves that fit inside the main house so when reassembling this have to be alligned and may take some time. The AR (one piece) is flushed with alcohol cleaner and lightly lubed with thin synthetic oil (the longer thinner sleeve goes into the main body)



Now lets open the gear house. (remove the rotor gasket sitting on the main house) This is held by four allen screws with red loctite. Turn the gear house and you will access the handle and the main gear allignement bearing. (it is retained by four small star screws)




the handle bearing will also be very ligthly lubed (shields with retainer) inside the gear house there is a metal spacer and a rubber gasket for waterproofing

in alligned order.



the main gear was heavily greased with thick grease. I cleaned it up and added a thinner grease mixed with thin oil. The main gear slides out easily but be aware once you remove the main gear there is a tiny tiny wire that has to be alligned and go inside the anti reverse dog ratchet hole)



once the main gear with the thin wire is alligned with the pinion gear and dog ratchet you attach the sealed gear house again... if it doesn't fit perfectly into place the rubber seal is misaligned. It goes inside the ingraving along the gear house.



allign the AR with slleve inside it's housing
http://s869.beta.photobucket.com/user/hafnor/media/IMG_0678_zps39ebd8f9.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10

once you get the last protection metal housing for the AR place the seal inside it's ingraving



and lastly to secure the AR the main shield that is screwed clockwise onto the main house



before attaching the rotor open the shiny plastic bail shield and grease or oil the bail spring.



the line roller bearing is easily accessed by removing the allen screw underneath the bail stem. it is not secured in any way other than soild red loctite. This screw is HARD, so be patient! I just squirted a little light oil inside the line roller bearing but you can remove the whole assembly. There are two rubber gaskets there that you pry out with a thin flat iron.



allign the rotor with the square rotor sleeve and it pops into place.



attatch the rotor nut with its plastic sleeve and bearing inside. then add the rubber bearing-gasket and the metal retainer on top, screw the rotor nut tight. it is secured by a star screw.




then goes the retainer pin and clicker mechanism with the spool shims ontop. then the spool sleeve, second retainer pin and rubber ring to lock it in place



And voila, your done!

[alantani]

nice!

[Alto Mare]

Very nice Thor, thanks for showing.

[hafnor]

Thats what this forum is about! Sharing:)

[redsetta]

That's what this forum is about! Sharing

x2 - thanks Thor.
Cheers, Justin

[hafnor]

I never did a spool tutorial because I sold the original and bought myself a studio ocean mark aftermarket spool instead (sucker for bling) and always tempted by hard to come by stuff

so here it goes.

Studio ocean mark "no limits 6300 Ver.Z"

cap.
PE8-300 MAX320
MAX410 400 PE6-
PE5-500 MAX510









the spools insides are easily accessible by removing a retainer.



the carbon fiber washers and titanium washers all ligned up. The CF washers were dry, and the bearing in the bottom of the spool also had little grease. I packed it with Cals grease and smudged the washers also with Cals drag grease.



bottom of the spool houses a bearing



as you see, not to well greased unfourtanetly.




dry!


better!


Done!

[Alto Mare]

Wow Hafnor, titanium washers. You mind me asking how much is that spool?

[hafnor]

I do not mind. The spool cost me 320 USD ex. shipping. (had to buy it from Thailand) The spool alslo has a radiator unit (much like a car´s) which takes the heat from the drag stack down underneath the spool. They use some type of alloy which leads heat. Very nice:)

[alantani]

well done!

[Marko]

Hi Guys,

the line clip on the spool of my saltiga dogfight was snapped by accident and i dont found them on the parts schematic. is there any way to replace the spool line clip? thanks

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

Marko,

I had a sustain and the line clip cannot be separated from the spool. i hope the saltiga is different so you don't have to buy a new spool.  but, you don't need that clip to catch fish...

[Marko]

Marko,

I had a sustain and the line clip cannot be separated from the spool. i hope the saltiga is different so you don't have to buy a new spool.  but, you don't need that clip to catch fish...

Yup u're right mate... it was not required to catch fish.. but its a small feature that we can use to hold the line hahaha...

funnily, my shimano sustain FI 8K also has a broken line clip and i just completely remove it hahaha - but now the oscilation slider broke apart=> issues with second hand reels that has been fully raped => the drive gear also has some play.. 

[Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B]

Marko,

i had the same exact model sustain, used twice, but sold it more than 3 yrs ago. switch to conventionals/overheads and now i'm buying spinners again. go figure! seriously i want to practice the ART of popping and it's more practical, IMO, to use a spinner for this.

regarding used equipment, it's a gamble when we buy one. you'll never know the condition until you get or open it. but then again...

[Maixtrail]

I do not mind. The spool cost me 320 USD ex. shipping. (had to buy it from Thailand) The spool alslo has a radiator unit (much like a car´s) which takes the heat from the drag stack down underneath the spool. They use some type of alloy which leads heat. Very nice:)

Hi do you know if I could buy the same SOM spool which you have?

[Glos]

bail spring needs thick grease, anything less than thick goes up and away with rotation of the rotor.