ABU Nomenclature

Started by Bryan Young, November 27, 2012, 08:34:08 PM

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Bryan Young

Quote from: Robert Janssen on November 26, 2012, 10:41:03 PM

Swedish yes, clue no.

C is usually for ball bearings, as in C3, C4 and so on.

S and T, i don't know. Niether of them fit the Swedish word for levelwind. Maybe it is S for Simple and T for Thumb.

See following, brazenly stolen from the Abu-Garcia website:


Glossary of Reel Terminologies

A = Small arbor spool, larger line capacity than the standard spool (for example 5000A)

AB = Anti-backlash, (for example 5600AB)

B = Small arbor spool, larger line capacity and a line out alarm (for example 5000B)

C = Reel has 2 ball bearings in the spool or around the spool axle depending on spool design

CI = Reel produced for Independent dealers

C3 = Reel has two ball bearings in the spool plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse (the 7000C3/7500C3 reels have two ball bearings at the ends of the spool axle plus a third ball bearing around the crank shaft)

C4 = Reel has two ball bearings in the spool, one ball bearing in the level wind plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse

C5 = The reel has two ball bearings in the spool, two ball bearings in the level wind plus a one-way roller bearing for the anti-reverse

CB = Self-centering â€" disengaging level wind (for example 4600CB) 1980’s

CS = C stands for ball bearings, the S is short for "Sports", as in "6500C Sports Rocket

CT = Non level wind model

D = Direct drive - Drag works only when your hand is off the handle grips. (For example 5000D)

DA = Direct drive with palming side plate

DL = Deluxe = Gold plated model

GR = Graphite construction

HCL = The H stands for High-speed, the CL for ball bearings and level wind, as in "Big Game 6500HCL"

HS = High speed reel

HSI = High Speed with Infini spool design

HSN = High speed narrow frame reel

IAR = Instant Anti Reverse (for example 2500CIAR)

IVCB = Infinitely Variable Centrifugal Brake

J-speed = the "J" stands for Japan, the J-speeds (8000/9000/10000) are high-speed saltwater reels made for the Japanese market.

L = Level wind (for example 6500CL, 9000CL; originally used for the 9000CL and 10000CL to indicate that those models had a level wind.

LC = Line counter reel

LD = Lever drag reel

LDN = Lever drag reel with narrow frame

SP = Sprint 6.3:1 gear ratio

ST = Striper model

W = Winch 3.8:1 gear ratio

Abu Garcia reels come in the following sizes:
1x00, 2x00, 3x00, 4x00, 5x00, 6x00, 7x00, 8x00, 9000, 10000. The 7x00 and up models are larger reels, with the 7x00 holding 300 yds of
Berkley Big Game 25# line and the 10000 holding well over 300 yds of Big Game 40# line.

The X in the size when replaced with a 5 represents a push button free spool release model and a 6 is a thumbar free spool release model.
Note that other size designations have been used. For example the 521/522/523, 821/822/823 or 1021/1022 made during the eighties, or the Ultra Mag I, II, III, IV, V, VI. "1" or "I" means a 4000-size reel, a "2" or "II" means a 5000-size reel, a "3" or "III" means a 6000-size reel and so on up.

.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

nagz

That is a great help, thanks very much

I am about to start a service on a 5600c4, with a thumb bar freespool that isn't allowing the reel to engage freespool when depressed. They are different to other thumb bars that I have seen as they kind of font move very much

Looking forward to opening it up tomorrow and seeing why it isn't working :)

Cheers again

Ken_D

#2
Hello. Things to inspect when you remove the transmission side of the reel form the frame:

Check the thumb-bar itself, making sure it's not cracked. Now and again, it is, and when you go to thumb down, the broken part prevents engagement.

If it's an older model with an exterior spring on the clutch arm not a modern one with a built in spring in the position holder, check for a broken spring.   

Check the "prongers" on the position holder.... they may be deformed.

If you were already inside the reel prior, and have just noticed that the thumb bar no longer works, flip the brake plate over, and see the crescent-shaped little hole underneath, and the silver part peeking back at you.

With a stout needle, or small screwdriver, put it in the crescent, and tweak the clutch arm into cast mode. Note this is where the pin on the thumb bar goes. It's intuitive. The early 46/56/66's needed to be placed into cast mode, before putting the transmission side back on the frame.

Also check the pin proper...now and then, the pin gets pushed into the thumb bar, so not enough of it sticks out, to catch the clutch arm.  Hope this helps. KD.


nagz

Thanks very much for the info, much appreciated

It turns out there were two problems.

Firstly the small pin that is connected to the thumb bar that engages freespool was pressed slightly into the thumb bar itself. I solved this by pressing an e clip onto the opposite side of the thumb bar, this forced te thumb bar to the right, just enough for the small pin to stick enough into the internals to engage freespool.

Secondly, the same small pin had gouged a groove out of the metal arm that it connects with inside the reel. This meant that when freespool was engaged, the pin would get caught under the arm, which means that freespool could not be disengaged by turning the hadle, the thumb bar had to be manually returned to its original position, which the owner didn't mind.

Not sure how this problem could have been fixed as the thumb bar is connected to the frame. A simple metal arm replacement would fix the groove from the pin. Don't think I like the idea of the thumb bar being permanently attached to the chassis.

Cheers

Ken_D

Hi. The e-clip fix is clever. Most folks pull the pin out of the thumb bar as much as needed,  and affix it with crazy glue. If the clutch arm is cacked, buy a new one. P/N 20685 at about 3.00 USD. They call it a link arm, not a clutch arm.  Good thing the thumb bar is nor cracked. The would mean a new frame, or an iffey repair.

When I see this on the repair bench,  I tell the sport his options: a repair that may not last, a new 50-60.00 frame, or cut a slot in the sideplate, add a trigger, remove the thumb bar off the frame, and turn the reel into a normal C3 type casting reel.  This fix lasts a lifetime, and will run the sport about 25.00 all in. (parts, supplies, time.)

As regards a removeable thumb-bar: Abu is really good at making as many parts common, model to model. To make a 46/56/66 with a removeable thumb bar would probably drive the cost past what folks would pay. They use the same frame as the regular 4-5-6 reels. And to engineer a removeable bar and make one would cost a bunch.






nagz

Hi ken
Thanks again for sharing
I think you're right, if I hd replaced the parts ie the frame, thumb bar and link arm, it may have even been more cost effective to replace the entire reel given the price of the parts, shipping and extended time frames.
I did try to pull the thumb bar pin out a little, as per your previous post, however the pointed shape made it hard to grasp with pliers or anything else I had in the shop.
It just baffles my mind that the functionality of a reels casting ability hinges on such a small piece that can't be replaced without such expense and hassle.
Not to worry. The owner was happy, the reel now works and that's what counts in the end

Thank you again

reddrum55

I wonder where the "NINE" fits in their list of models ?

Ken_D

#7
Quote from: reddrum55 on December 31, 2012, 01:53:36 AM
I wonder where the "NINE" fits in their list of models ?

Literally, they fit in between the 8000, and the ten. From year 1988 for a bit. You'd have to open the drawings for the nine, and all the various 9000's (still out there as big game models), and play the can you spot the differences game with them.  The 10000's are still out there, also, to compare the ten's diffs against.

In Canada, we never saw the nine or ten out west, but we saw lots of sevens. The seven was a budget 7000 back in the day, so I presume this was the same with the nine, and the ten.

reddrum55

Ken,
    Thanks for the info.  I got mine in 1992, and it continues to serve me well from the surf.
               Don

Abuadmiral

Hi Brian
Nice addition of the ABU nomenclature!
I know Alan says to cut and paste items of interest but thought as a courtesy  I'd ask you permission to add this list (with due reference to you) to my website www.realsreels.com
cheers
Wayne
Tight Lines
Wayne Real
www.realsreels.com

Robert Janssen

#10
If you read the text you'll see that it is taken from the Abu website. They probably don't mind.

And PS, T is for Tournament.

.

Abuadmiral

Thanks Robert
Yes my wrong..I glanced and did not "see" the source
Alway like to acknowledge though
cheers
Wayne
Tight Lines
Wayne Real
www.realsreels.com

bassnwhaler

And to add:

The "c" on the Black Max reels of 1992-93 meant a gear ratio of 6:3:1 and not the regular 5:3:1 and I don't think it had anything to do with more bearings as it usually does. So for instance the Black Max 3600c had a "c" (and different lettering for the word Max...it was a cursive style and helps ID these older reels that suffer from paint loss.) You can upgrade your 5:3:1's with part numbers 2222 and 2221 (do them both) or just find a 3600c. Anyway, I found that odd as it seems to be a different use for "c"

Bassnwhaler

bassnwhaler

And another "thinker"

The 521 reels came in a right hand model upsetting the boat of odd numbers meaning left hand. I love it! Keeps us firing new synapses to keep up.

Bassnwhaler ;D

derek

 any idea how to decode this one?