penn 209

[mike1010]

That appears to be the same dog and dog spring as the 9 ? I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

That is a pretty reel. I'll bet somebody has gone through it and those changes were not from Penn.  Have you looked at the drag washer stack to see if it's been upgraded ?

Mic

Scott's says the dog and spring for the 9 and 9M are the same.  It is a nice little reel; thanks.  It has been my son's since new, and if it was ever upgraded, it would have been in the tackle shop when I bought it, which seems doubtful.  The drag stack is HT-100s, now greased with Cal's.  The washers are tiny, but the reel makes a fair amount of drag.

Mike

[txangler81]

The peerless 9 and the more recent 9m reel are one in the same. Penn just dropped the peerless portion of the name. same as with the dropping peer from the 209 and the 309. All the parts are still the same including the aluminum spools the new ones come with

[DanR]

Hi guys,

First post on here, I found the forum when googling for Penn 309 rebuilds and while this is for a 209, it's almost identical to the 309.  My father gave me his old Penn Peer 309, which is probably about 40 years old and was used trolling for lake trout.  The reel was filthy and needed a good cleaning and chrome polish.  The spool was very stiff on retrieve with quite a bit of unwanted friction so I disassembled the entire reel, cleaned every part and have re-greased and re-assembled everying.  I've only lightly oiled the reel and have tentavily put it back together and everything works great except for one fairly significant issue.  If I tighten a couple of key spots down, the reel starts to seize up.  I've put together a quick video showing exactly what's happening at:



Any suggestions on what to do what be awesome, or is this reel simply toast?  Was hoping to use it as a second reel for trolling along side my Penn Squall 20.

Thanks!
Dan

[DanR]

And just to update the above, I went and re-added the rod mounting bracket that was not in the video and it looks like the added support corrected some of the issue.  So now the connecting rod screws can be tightened all the way without impacting the friction on the level.  So now the only issue is that when I tighten down the oil bolt as in the video, it seizes up the spool.

Thanks,
Dan

[RowdyW]

Loosen the left bearing adjustment screw in the center of the left plate. After you tighten everything up then you make the adjustment to that bearing. The spool should have .005 to .010 side to side play when adjusted properly. There is not supposed to be any side pressure on the spool. It is to float freely at all times.

[DanR]

Loosen the left bearing adjustment screw in the center of the left plate. After you tighten everything up then you make the adjustment to that bearing. The spool should have .005 to .010 side to side play when adjusted properly. There is not supposed to be any side pressure on the spool. It is to float freely at all times.

Oh man, now that you point out the left side adjustment, it's so obvious *smacks head*  Thank you so much, problem solved.  Will have to open it all up again for proper lubrication but this is working like new now.  Thanks again!

[RowdyW]

Your welcomed Dan, now lube it up ( Cal's for drags & marine grease) & make sure you have CF drags in it. Then let us know how it fishes, (send photos everybody loves photos).   Rudy

[DanR]

Your welcomed Dan, now lube it up ( Cal's for drags & marine grease) & make sure you have CF drags in it. Then let us know how it fishes, (send photos everybody loves photos).   Rudy

I'm using the stock drag plates in there, are people swapping them out for carbon fiber versions?  I did read through the original post of this thread and I saw he was replacing the drag rig, I'll have to look up in depth what was done and how/where to order those CF drags.  Thanks again for helping me out, first time taking apart a trolling reel, I've only ever used spinning reels and aside from my main reel, will toss out dead ones rather than recover them.  But this Penn has some sentimental value to it, plus I love the look of this reel and there's absolutely nothing wrong with it aside from needing a major cleaning lol!

Dan

[RowdyW]

    The original drags are a hard fiber material & are not as smooth or have the full drag capability of carbon fiber drags. You can get the parts you need at Scott's Bait & Tackle. Check with Mo & she will get what you need & ship it to you.

[DanR]

    The original drags are a hard fiber material & are not as smooth or have the full drag capability of carbon fiber drags. You can get the parts you need at Scott's Bait & Tackle. Check with Mo & she will get what you need & ship it to you.

Perfect, thanks Rowdy!  Just got off the phone with Mo and have the drags and a couple other goodies ordered and on the way!

Dan

[Decker]

Just got through repairing a 209 -- my first Penn internals take apart.  Even without touching the drag, it was a bear, but worth mulling through.  Somehow my visual dyslexia made me do a m few things backwards, before I could get them right:

• The clutch and spring: Messed with getting the spring in the right place against the plate.  Bent the spring.  Found a PennParts video that helped a lot and finally got it.
• The yoke and eccentric: put both on the wrong way a few times, including having the yoke U turned up.   Man-o-man!
• The (dirty) Dog and spring: Somehow was putting the dog under the main gear instead of on top of it (dyslexic) and chased the spring at least ten times, but it did not get away, although it did get a bit mangled. 
• Assembling the plates and posts: Never got far enough in Alan's tutorial to see the rubber band trick for holding everything together.  Assembled the reel several times without the level wind shield - UGH!  Swore I would never work on another level wind, but after seeing the rubber band I will give another try.  I had worked on many Squidders and Jigmasters, and am now deeply appreciative of the take-apart architecture that allows the right side plate tyo be left out of the frame assemble!

Finally getting everything back, with he dog clicking happily, I found the bait clicker tongue to be busted - tip is mangled.  At least I won't have to touch the gearing again. Don't judge me for no rebuilding the drag stack -- believe me, what I did was enough schooling for one week!  But I have some Squidder and Jigmaster carbon drag washers to install, and enough confidence now that I can handle eccentrics, yokes, and dogs on some other reels!  Whew!

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

[mo65]

Good job Decker! Heck...you made it through the tough part...changing drag washers is a cinch compared to scrunching that yoke, springs, and eccentric back in place. The rubber band trick really will make life easier. Or you can try my way...before I joined this site I worked up a way to hold those pieces in place...a simple strip of tape across the top post and down the levelwind to the bottom front post. Then one more strip across the worm shield. It holds everything in place really well.

[alantani]

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

great!  do you think you could fix the email notification?

[spc7669]

Just did my first 209 today. Alan should get a humanitarian award for the rubber band idea. I would have never figured that out otherwise. Many thanks!

[Decker]

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

great!  do you think you could fix the email notification?

Alan, I'd be happy to give it a shot. Do you have any error message to start with?