daiwa saltist ld 20

Started by alantani, December 29, 2009, 06:20:16 PM

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madday

thanks alan....
probably will buy new andros norrow instead....  ;D

FlynHaYin

Aloha Alan.  I have a Saltist LD50HSH.  My problem is when I engage the drag, the harder the drag is applied, the harder it is to crank to retrieve the mainline.  Feels like there is some binding issues inside the reel.  The reel is fairly new and hasn't been serviced yet.  Although I opened the reel up to look at what it could be, put it back together again and still have the same problem.  Not sure what to do next?

Reelz

Don't set the drag too high. Thats the problem with these reels. On LD 20 max drag is 22 lbs. but I will never set it that high because if I do I get the same problem. Harder to crank. If it hasn't been serviced yet. Follow the instrustions on here and do it! So you won't have any problems. Seems like its a common problem on these reels. Also check your bearings make sure all are good.

SoCalAngler

Drag pressure for the Saltist LD 50's should be about 17-18 lbs at strike before you start to get side load and it is harder to crank.

pompano joe

Quote from: Reelz on January 23, 2013, 05:01:28 AM
I don't know about the 35 size but my ld 20 with 13 lbs of drag feels pretty rough when turning compared to when you its at 10 lbs. Even when its at 11-12 lbs still feels almost the same. If you want to fish this reel and still get a smooth crank, then set it to 10 lbs max. You can still crank it smoothly. Any higher, it just doesnt feel right.

Alan, anybody got a fix for this.  I've got a hyper speed 30 that gets way tight when you load the drag.
Pompano Joe

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B

the easiest fix for this is a thrust bearing and/or angular contact bearings or tapered bearings. sometimes just changing all the bearings on the same axis with better ones helps a lot. i don't know the quality of the OEM bearings but if they are of high quality then you don't need to change them.  having written that your only solution is an angular contact bearing(not cheap tho) or tapered one. better buy a better reel if i may say so, especially if one bearing will cost you an arm and a leg. hope this helps...

Bryan Young

Have you guys ever wondered why the LD20/LD30 comes with an ARB (Anti-Reverse Bearing) and the LD20/LD30 2-Speed does not?  I thought I was missing a part until I looked at the schematics...Hmm...what's up with that?
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B

bryan, maybe daiwa does not want to deal with AR bearings going bust in their 2 SP... ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

spiderpig

I have a single speed LD30H that I am currently having problems with; it wont freespool. I originally thought it was a bent drive shaft so last week I ordered a new drive shaft and three new bearings for it. I installed them Tuesday and still have the same problem!!!

When I reassemble the reel, I get good freespool. Its not until I install the lever and adjust the drag that I get poor freespool. It doesnt matter if I loosen the drag right off after putting it back together, it wont come good until I pull the reel down again.

Has anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

Ryan

Tightlines667

I would check free spool with the right side plate off, but everything (including pinion, etc...in place). If free spool is good you may have a spacing issue.  If it is bad, disassemble individual parts until you find the culprit.  Sometimes there is too much grease on the parts that spin past one another in free spool, easy fix.  Sometimes the free spool can be improved by carefully polishing the inside of the pinion with some toothpaste or metal polish..not sandpaper!  If its a spacing issue you may find replacing the Bellevilles w/new or reconfiguring the orientation to ((() or (()) with a shim if necessary can decrease the spacing before the drag engages slightly. Just be careful not to overshim or end up with too much pressure on the pinion under max drag.  Also, this will change the drag curve to a much steeper ramp up which may not be desirable in a reel model that already has know weaknesses at higher drag settings.  I don't have one of these reels myself, so someone else might be able to chime in with better placed advice?

John
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

spiderpig

I worked it out this afternoon. It was the spring  one the drive shaft between the two drive shaft bearings that separate the drag plate from the washer hen the drag is disengaged. I stretched the spring and its like a new reel!!!

My first question and answer in one day, what a goose!


Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B

but it felt good because you found out what the problem was. "persistence" and patience sometimes takes care of things. am glad for you. tight lines!

redfish12

I have the two speed version of this reel (LD20) and it has a similar problem as you described above. Unfortunately, it was not that spring! I have disassembled and reassembled several times and no luck resolving the issue. The reel is tight in the higher speed gear, to the point I wouldn't want to use that gear, and the drag pressure goes from almost nothing at strike to full bore at full despite adjusting.

Do you all have any ideas what could be causing this?

cmaraj1

would the 50ld have the same problems>?????

madday

#29
don't mind... missed Jim's post... :D