tortugo
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« on: December 07, 2011, 02:44:52 PM » |
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I have a 114h and the pinion gear is rusted tight to the shaft of the spool. Does anyone have a surefire way to remove the pinion gear without destroying it?
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Norcal Pescador
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« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2011, 02:57:41 PM » |
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If you haven't already, soak the shaft and gear in some WD40, kerosene or any other penetrating oil for at least 24 hours. Then try pulling and twisting it off. If that didn't work then soak it again for 48 hours. No guarantee once you get it off, either the spool or gear will be usable if the rust went deep into either one. Good luck.  |
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Rob Classic USA Penns - 9MF 85 100 285 (2x)500L 501 111 113H 113HL 113HN 114H 50V  One lonely Newell S220-5 and some freshwater stuff, too.  Oceanside Senior Anglers Humboldt Area Saltwater Anglers |
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Pescachaser
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« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2011, 04:32:02 PM » |
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Tortugo: the answer is below. I had to modify this post because Sal reminded me that we got chastised by Alan for getting off the subject in the thread I posted before. Dominick
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« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 05:22:14 PM by Pescachaser »
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Leave the gun. Take the cannolis.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #3 on: December 07, 2011, 04:41:20 PM » |
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Dominick, quit feuling the fire. We already got scolded once from the boss  |
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
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Pescachaser
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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2011, 05:20:06 PM » |
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Sal: I didn't mean to put the whole link in just the part where Tidetime puts in the different liquids to break frozen parts apart. Maybe I can add a little info to this site as far as breaking loose rusted objects. I have a couple International scouts. If anyone on here knows what they are you know they rust and rust bad. After some research I came across this info and believe me there is nothing better for breaking stuck bolts.
Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating oil........... Average load
None ...................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ................ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ........... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ................ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...........53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Dominick |
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Leave the gun. Take the cannolis.
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john2244
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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2011, 05:36:27 PM » |
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Dom,
Good information, thanks.
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San Clemente, CA (Southern Calif)
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alantani
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« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2011, 10:38:47 PM » |
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get two no. 2 flat screwdrivers. shimmy them underneath the pinion gear at opposite sides, 180 degrees from each other. if a no. 2 screwdriver is too big, get a no. 1 screwdriver. now gently turn both screwdrivers clockwise to apply even and equal pressure to opposite sides of the pinion gear and gently lift. clean the spool shaft with steel wool. clean the inside of the pinion gear using a drill bit that is narrow enough to slide into the pinion gear without enlarging the hole.
i know, i need photos for this one. sorry. alan
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alantani
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« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2011, 10:44:06 PM » |
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Tortugo: the answer is below. I had to modify this post because Sal reminded me that we got chastised by Alan for getting off the subject in the thread I posted before. Dominick
not a problem! |
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2011, 10:49:36 PM » |
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also add a little heat to the pinion gear and try not to heat the spool shaft too much in the process. The pinion should expand slighty to possibly break the rust. Let it cool down slowly so that the gear doesn't warp.
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #9 on: December 08, 2011, 04:48:01 AM » |
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If you do succeed and you're not comfortable using a drill bit to clean the pinion gear, maybe this brush kit might come handy.  You could order it from harbor freight tools, I think it was $6.99. You might have to put that reel to rest though . Good luck! Sal Skip the comment above. Of course you will succeed, I thought you were talking about a Newell reel |
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« Last Edit: December 08, 2011, 04:52:11 AM by Alto Mare »
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
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tortugo
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« Reply #10 on: December 08, 2011, 12:15:49 PM » |
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Wow! Thank you all for your help. There are a lot of good suggestions. I knew there had to be someone who came up against this problem.
Tortugo
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2011, 01:28:05 PM » |
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Please let us know how it works out and what method you used. If you can support it with pics, that will be great.
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day0ne
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« Reply #12 on: December 08, 2011, 10:03:43 PM » |
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This may sound funny but a Mercury mechanic turned me on to this. The old Mercruiser Engine Cleaner in the spray can (the stuff you spray down the carb) was the absolute best thing for freeing corroded fittings. Spray it, wait a few seconds (or minutes), and the fitting would come loose. The most impressive thing I saw it do was break a tapered joint on a propeller shaft, in fact two of them. Everything else had been tried and after we used this, the props were off in five minutes. Anybody that has ever tried to break a tapered joint, even with a puller, knows how hard it is to do. A caveat. This was the stuff they sold years ago and I'm not sure the current Mercruiser Power Tune Engine Cleaner is the same but for $7 a can, it's worth a try
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