alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Fishing Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10  (Read 24557 times)
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alantani
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« on: February 28, 2010, 05:08:04 PM »

okuma convector CV 30L rebuild - 2/28/10

this will be the fist time that i've ever done a rebuild post on this style of fishing reel.  it is a variation on the theme of the older mitchell, ocean city, penn, and newell reels, in which the bridge plate bolts to the side plate.  these reels are found in large numbers in asia and to a lesser degree in the united states.  it's like the m-16 vs ak-47 situation in this country.  m-16's are more common, but there are plenty of ak's here and even more throughout the rest of the world.  first, pull up the schematics.

http://schematics.okumafishing.com/CV30L.PDF

here's our reel.  it's last year's model of the okuma convector 30L.  i had to do a few calculations, but it looks like this reel will hold a shade under 300 yards of 30# mono.  that compares to the penn 330 gt2 holding 330 yards of 30# mono.  







it's very important to keep the line and the leveler in sync.  an easy way to do that is to pull out the line until the leveler moves to a far side, then cut the line.  when the reel is back together, crank until the leveler moves back to that side, find the tag end of the line, poke it through the leveler, pull, tie it off and you're back in sync.



let's start by removing the four left side plate screws (key #9311).



stainless steel.  very nice!



remove the left side plate cover (key #311), also stainless steel.



remove the left side plate cover (key #300) assembly.



here's a view of the inside.  all stainless steel!



you can go cheap and easy here and just lube the right side plate bearing (key #9106) without pulling it out.  this bearing measures 4x11x4mm.  



you can also pull the bearing and clean it out.  on some models, you may have to remove the click pawl spring (key #305) and the transmission gear (key #707).



remove the spool assembly (key #400).



in all of the star drag reels, this right spool bearing (key #9107) that always fails first.  it measures 6x13x3.5mm.



remove the retaining clip (key #9406).



we're going to toss the shields and lube the bearing, then reinstall it and the retaining clip.  



lube the worm shaft (key #712).



install the spool assembly (key #400).



install the left side plate assembly (key #300).



install the left side plate cover (key #311).



install the four left side plate screws (key #9311).    



in the future, this will be the only work required to maintain your reel.



now for the right side.



remove the handle nut holder screw (key #515).



remove the handle nut (key #117).



remove the handle washer (key #9204).



remove the handle assembly (key #500).  at one point, the hadle arms were stainless steel.  this particular arm is made of anodized aluminum.



remove the tension washer (key #614).



remove the star drag (key #615).  this is also anodized aluminum, not as good as stainless steel but better than the chromed zinc found in older models.  



removed the washer stack and keep the washers in order (key #'s 9201, 609 and unk).



remove the 5 right side plate screws (key #9301).



remove the right side plate cover (key #208).



remove the right side plate assembly (key #200).



here's a shot of the inside of the assembly.  it is different in appearance, but the basic "design" is same a penn 4/0 senator.  one of the most impressive things about this particular reel is the amount of stainless steel in it.  



remove the two screws (key #930-1) for the hold plate cover (key #912).



remove the hold plate cover (key #912).



remove the clutch cam screw (key #9317)



remove the clutch cam slider (key #804).



remove the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.



remove the two yoke springs (key #806).



line everything up.



remove the two large hold plate screws (key #9302) on top.



remove the smaller countersunk hold plate screw (key #9302-1) at the bottom.



note the orientation of the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) assembly.



remove the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211).  this side is up....



..... and this side is down.



remove the drive shaft assembly as a unit.



this model has a white nylon drive gear shaft bushing (part #17200005) that is not shown in the schematic.





here is an expanded view of the drive shaft assembly.



there are two drag washers (key #'s 9205 and 610) in this particular reel that are not made of carbon fiber and should be replaced.  call okuma directly or use a penn ht-100 #56-440 as a replacement.







slap a thick coat of cal's grease on the carbon fiber drag washers and reassemble the drag stack.  don't worry about the excess grease.  it will simply squeeze out the sides.



install the one way clutch bearing (key #9103).  lube it first with corrosion x.



install the drive shaft assembly half way.



rotate the hold plate (key #207) clockwise about 30 degrees.



install the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211) and align the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) with the the ratchet gear of the drive shaft assembly (key #701).



rotate the hold plate (key #207) couterclockwise 30 degrees and snap it into place.



turn the drive shaft (key #701) and make sure the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) clicks properly.



install the lower hold plate screw (key #9302-1).



install the two upper hold plate screws (key #9302).



install the two yoke springs (key #806).



install the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.



install the clutch cam slider (key #804).



install the clutch cam screw (key #9317).



check the function of the clutch bar (key #802).



install the cover board (key #912).



install the cover board screws (key #9301-1).



almost done!



install the right side plate assembly (key #200).



install the right side plate cover (key #208).



install the side plate cover screws (key #9301).



install the drive gear shaft bushing (no key #).



install the drag spring washers (key #609) in a "()" orientation.



install the drive shaft gear washer (key #9201-1) and click gear (no key #).



install the star drag (key #615) and turn it down past the shoulder of the drive shaft.



install the tension washer (key #614).



now for the handle assembly (key #500).  it you need to lube it, pop the cover and back out this small screw.  





i'm going to drill this one out and install something a little more substantial.



there, that's more like it!



install the handle washer (key #9204).



install the handle nut (key #117).



install the handle nut holder screw (key #515).



almost done.



the quickest way to damage the level wind assembly is to have the line and the leveler out of sync.



remember where the leveler was when we cut the line?   right!  crank the reel until you have the leveler on the far right side.



poke the line through the leveler and pull until you can clearly see that it is back in sync.



now tie a loop at the end, add a rubber band, and NOW you're done!



now, for a few comments.  at the risk of sounding like a broken record, the bearings need servicing.  and sneaking in two non-carbon fiber washers into the drag stack is not good.  but the rest of this reel is fine!  there is ALOT of stainless steel in this fishing reel.  that by itself makes the reel worthy of consideration.  stainless steel and graphite will last for years.  the anodized aluminum handle arm, star and spool will have to be watched, but this reel will require very little maintenance after the initial service.  i'm afraid i would have to rate this reel higher than the penn 330 gt2 and the shimano tekota because the convector is mostly graphite and stainless steel.  if you're looking for a 30# levelwind, this is the one to get.  alan
« Last Edit: February 28, 2010, 11:29:18 PM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: March 10, 2010, 01:14:18 PM »

« on: Today at 08:16:23 AM » Quote Modify Remove Split Topic  

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Glad to see you post this one Alan, thank you. I just wanted to add a few comments. It may be worth the time to check the tightness of the 2 small screws holding the clicker gear to the spool on an annual basis. It's also time well spent to remove the eccentric cam and slap on a thick coat of blue grease to seal it off and protect it from corrosion. I also like to remove the screw holding the mainshaft to the holding plate, grease the mainshaft bushing, loctite the screw before reinstalling, and grease the thin washer below it to seal it off (make sure this washer is centered on the screw/ bushing). Just a little more protection against the elemnts. Thanks again for all your great posts and tutorials, please keep 'em coming.  
 
Jimmer

     Re: RE: Okuma CV 30L tutorial
« Reply #1 on: Today at 08:42:12 AM » Quote Modify Remove Split Topic  

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Forgot to mention sometimes the drag stack will be a little high with the carbonite washer replacing the plastic one in the drag stack. You can lap down the inside keyed washer and the eared washer on a sheet of 320 grit it get rid of the sharp punched edges (do this carefully in a figure 8 pattern, rotating the washer 90 degrees after 10 strokes to avoid uneven thickness) annd pick up some depth. as a last resort bend the ears down slightly to get engagement with the main gear. I haven't had a problem with sideplate clearance yet. I think tthe penn washers are a little thinner, haven't tried them yet but that might be a good solution.  
 
 
 
 
« Last Edit: March 10, 2010, 01:53:09 PM by alantani » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: March 08, 2011, 06:44:27 PM »

I have an Okuma 30D.. can I use this tutorial for that?   

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« Reply #3 on: March 09, 2011, 09:30:01 PM »

I have an Okuma 30D.. can I use this tutorial for that?   

I just finished doing a CV30D.  I believe if you have an older CV30D, this tutorial will be almost the same, there are three small screws that hold the linecounter on.  I had to remove the linecounter to get the drag stack out.

Actually, the one I opened was brand new.  A couple of notes, the hold plate is now plastic.  In addition to the removing the three screws, you need to remove the screw from the center of the shaft that screws into the main shaft of the drag stack before removing the hold plate.  On a positive note, the drag washers are now carbon fiber.  They are installed dry from the factory.  I greased mine up and re-installed.  They also replace the washer with the dog ears with a thinner one th help accommodate the slightly thicker drag washers.

Also note that I used this tutorial to do an older CV45L and there was virtually no diff between the inside of that reel and this one.  

BTW, Thanks Alan!

-- Bud
« Last Edit: March 09, 2011, 09:31:27 PM by cduced » Logged
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« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2011, 02:54:44 PM »

I just got finished servicing one. It was probably one of the most easiest reels to service. My only complant is on the one I serviced is that they use loctite on the screws.
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« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2012, 03:26:03 PM »

I'm looking for opinions about the newer 'cheapened' hold plates in the newer reels. I owned a few of the older blue Convectors when Okuma was not so well regarded. They were bullet proof back then. Obviously Okuma increased profits going with a plastic plate on the newer reels. I could look for some older reels that would have the stainless ones, but I just assume buy new and start fresh. 

1) Not having the reel in hand and torn apart, does the plastic plate make any difference in the reel's performance?

2) Even with the plastic hold plate, is still a good reel overall. Plastic doesn't corrode...?

3) Any opinions about the longevity with the plastic plate? 

I'm looking at buying six 20D line counters for salmon trolling for my charter ops. The majority of fish will be about 8-12# Coho with the occasional 20-30# Chinook. Any opinions greatly appreciated.

Kevin
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« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2012, 09:28:30 PM »

check with okuma.  they might have a stainless steel option........
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« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2012, 01:51:14 AM »

Think the Catalina and Clarion models have stainless hold plates. For the extra money, probably just buy Tekota line counters instead.
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« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2012, 12:56:14 PM »

Wow i've had 6 Convector CV D reels in a box for a few years now but I came across your post here and finally had the guts to pull them apart. I was able to fix 4 of them so far by simply filing down a little burr I found on the main shaft that wasn't allowing the reel to engage after letting line out. But I have a couple other reels that seem to have a issues with the worm shaft the line on the spool seems to get out of time with the lever. I hope I explained my problem ok. What could cause my problem?
Thanks Jeff
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« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2012, 01:27:42 PM »

G'day and welcome Jeff,
Well done on the Convectors.
If I understand your question correctly (ie the level wind is out of synch with the line lay?), it's a common issue.
If the spool is removed for servicing or the line goes back through the level-wind guide, the line lay and level wind will get out of synch.
The next time you fish, it'll spool off out of synch, but lay correctly as it's wound back in.
It'll then spool off correctly to the previous length, then get out of synch again.
There really isn't any way around this, other than avoiding letting the line back through the level-wind guide.
Some reels feature a 'disengaging level wind' when in free spool, so they effectively get out of synch with every cast.
Hope that's what you were after.
Cheers, Justin
« Last Edit: July 01, 2012, 01:29:51 PM by redsetta » Logged

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« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2012, 02:21:10 PM »

OK thanks a lot. I never pulled the spools out previous to reading this post but I may have had some break offs and got things out of sync there. Have you ever seen where reels just get out of sync with the line lay because of mechanical reasons. Just curious in case that's actually my problem? Thanks a lot for the quick reply! Much appreciated!
Jeff
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« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2012, 02:47:24 PM »

Hi Jeff,
Quote
Have you ever seen where reels just get out of sync with the line lay because of mechanical reasons?
Yeah, level-wind mechanisms are notoriously delicate and readily fail at the idler gear, pawl or worm shaft.
Even where everything's working fine, you're likely to have a few different line lays on the most well-used portion of the spool (as you say, due to break-offs etc).
As long as it's laying smoothly and to a uniform depth across the spool width, it'll be fine.
However, if you want it all spot on, just free spool a good bit of line out the back of the boat and rewind under some tension.
Cheers, Justin
« Last Edit: July 01, 2012, 02:49:57 PM by redsetta » Logged

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« Reply #12 on: February 11, 2013, 01:30:36 AM »

I just bought a second hand CV30L, and there are some differences with the one in Alans pictures.

Firstly mine has a pinion gear yoke plate, under the anti reverse gear. This is shown on the CN30L schematic, but not on the CV30L schematic.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_CN_30L.pdf
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_CV30L.pdf

Secondly mine had zero carbon fiber washer in all. All plastic like the two Alan removed above.

Third the clicker pawl spring was plastic in mine.

And last of all the hold plate was stainless as above, not plastic as others have posted the latest ones are.

Can anyone tell me the purpose of the pinion gear yoke plate, and the spring in it?

As far as I can tell it just acts like a spacer in this reel.
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« Reply #13 on: February 11, 2013, 04:07:51 AM »

That plate and it's damper spring are part of the auto trip mechanism. I always remove both and shift the reel back into gear manually.
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« Reply #14 on: February 11, 2013, 10:09:18 AM »

The reel appears to me to be a candidate for a 5+1 conversion. Big SS gears and SS driveshaft.
It has a couple of 2mm metal washers that could be thinner allowing room for more drag washers.

Existing washer dimensions are

Metal washers
Two of 8x34x2 keyed
One of 10x34x1 eared

Drag washers are
Two of 8x34x0.5
One of 13x34x1
Under gear washer is 8x36x1

I'm a newbie at this but am thinking it should be possible to replace the 2mm washers with 1mm, that would make room for two more metal washers.

Then replace the 1mm drag washers with 0.5mm making room for two more drag washers.

I could buy two of the eared washer from okuma and file the ears off.
I could buy more of the 0.5mm drag washers from okuma and replace the 1mm ones.

The top metal washer ahas a raised area near the centre. Is this important?
the scheme above would replace it with a flat washer

Any opinions as to whether this may work before I give it a go?
« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 11:57:25 AM by Mike La Franchie » Logged

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