okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10

[Bryan Young]

Hi Mike,

It is possible but if you crank down on the drag, you will surely exceed the limits of this reel...therefore, a 3+1 drag set-up is sufficient.

[Mike La Franchie]

Thanks for the feedback Bryan.
What is your guess as to the limiting component on this reel?
Is it the plastic frame flexing, allowing the main gear and pinion gear to disengage slightly?

3+1 will definitely be enough drag for me. I fish out of a kayak and will use 30lb mono on this reel.

However I do like to tinker...

[Jimmer]

A 5+1 might be possible in this, I've never measured max drag with 3+1 but i get plenty for salmon and trout up to 25 lb in the stock configuration, To try a 5 stack I think you would need all thin metal washers. I would use a.8 mm c.f washer on the bottom (large hole to maintain clearance so the first keyed washer doesn't bind on the main gear bushing. You must alternate keyed and eared with c.f, in betweenup the drag stack.  Drilled out keyed washers would become useless spacers, none of the metals will transmit power (or drag) from the handle shaft to the main gear if they are not alternating keyed and eared, engaged to either ther handle shaft or the main gear. The second eared washer will also have to have the tabs engaged in the grooves in  the main gear to add any more drag. I didn't do the math but I dont think you will find thin enough metals for this reel to make it work, the newer reels might use thinner metals. Okuma or Tuna's reel troubles might be able to help. tunasreeltroubles@gmail.com email only they are too busy to talk on the phone. Good luck! - Jimmer

[Jimmer]

Should have read all the way down before I posted that, I too think you'll be fine with the stock drag. The limiting factors on this reel will be first how much drag the anti reverse roller bearing on the handle shaft can take, and two how much force the frame can take at the A.R. dog pin to frame point after the one way roller bearing fails.

[Bryan Young]

The limiting factors include but not limited to the frame, sideplates, or Anti-reverse system.  The reel probably good up to 12-14# ish.

[Mike La Franchie]

Thanks for the feedback guys.
Taking into account the new knowledge you have given me, all I will do to this reel is replace the plastic (Rulidium) drag washers with HT-100, or maybe Okumas new carbon fibres ones (Carbonite).

[Mike La Franchie]

That plate and it's damper spring are part of the auto trip mechanism. I always remove both and shift the reel back into gear manually.

I just found out why.
When casting the handle rotates and Puts the reel into gear just as I let fly with a 5oz sinker. I'm gonna take mine out too before i wreck the dog or AR gear.

[Jimmer]

There are some other upgrades for the older convectors. T he very newest ones use a stainless cliker spring which is way stronger than the black or white plastic ones, and the new drag star also has a clIcker to help hold it at its setting. Both are available cheap here :   http://stores.tunasreeltroubles.com/-strse-OKUMA-CONVECTOR-CV-cln-CONVECTOR-CV30-SERIES-cln-CV30L/Categories.bok

[Mike La Franchie]

Ok, I'm wondering if I have rounded the male piece on the spool shaft which mates with the pinion gear.

When under tension the spool will sometimes slip backwards with a horrible sound like your wife trying to change gears in a manual transmission.

The male piece is still has square edges al the spool end, but the pinion end has 2 rounded edges, the two highest corners.

See a photo of the part I am talking about.



Does this sound like a correct diagnosis?
If so I can replace the spool and the problem will go away. (Fingers crossed).

Other information of use is:
Slippage happens when not winding handle, and line is being pulled from the spool under some drag tension.

Only happens under load.

All other parts look un damaged to my untrained eye.

[alantani]

i'm getting double vision.  i can probably read your post more easily if you flip your avatar photo right side up....   

[Jimmer]

If that's damaged you'll probably need a new spool, I'd inspect the pinion and main gears carefully as well, Tuna's probably has everything you need in stock and ships the same day if they do. Good prices and great service.    http://www.tunasreeltroubles.com/

[alantani]

is the shoulder of the spool shaft damaged?  it's hard to see on the photo.

[Mike La Franchie]

2 edges of the shoulder are rounded off. These two are higher and are the two the pinion will engage first.
I'm not sure if it was made like this to help the pinion engage smoothly . The spool end of the shoulder still has 4 square edges. It's just the pinion gear end that has two edges rounded off.

I couldn't get a decent photo to show this.

The pinion is also damaged.

In today's disposable society it's not really worth me buying a new spool and pinion gear for this reel.
So if anyone is looking for parts PM me. They are yours for shipping cost from New Zealand. Probably only cost effective for small parts that will fit in an envelope.

The spool, pinion gear and level wind assembly are damaged. Everything else is good spares.

Alan my photo profile looks the right way up to me.
Maybe the website recognises that I am on the other side of the world, and automatically turns me upside down?

[Irish Jigger]

i'm getting double vision.  i can probably read your post more easily if you flip your avatar photo right side up....   

I thought he lived in Australia.

[jig-guy]

Hi Alen, this is a great post. I am going to purchase the CV30L. I have been using the CV45L and it works great. I had surgery on my right arm and shoulder and for an old guy I needed a reel that my arm could still crank. Anyway thanks for the guidance and I will maintain my reels as per your instructions.
I will catch a tuna or yellowtail on the CV30L this summer or fall for sure. My right arm and shoulder are a bunch of junk but I will fish till I drop.
Thank you,
jig-guy / Bill