International 80 clicker question

Started by erikpowell, October 10, 2013, 11:05:45 PM

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erikpowell

Bula All,

Have an old Int 80 here missing the clicker assy. Wonder if I could get some help.

It appears to me that the clicker housing is pressed into the side plate and not removable nor replaceable.
There is no part # for it and it appears as part of the plate in the schematic.

That being said, (and I don't have a better one to compare it to): Would you say that this one is still intact and useable?




That notch or indent appears to be OK and by design.  ????  right?



Looks pressed in from factory:


The plunger looks to be broken off at the top.
Am I correct in assuming that there should be threads there to catch the #36 Click Button?


There is also listed a 36A click button nut.... but i can't find it on the schematic  ???

So to repair it, I'm thinking just a new click tongue(35), click button(36), and click button nut?(36A)

Could one of you gang verify this for me? Thanks a lot !

Cheers

erikpowell

#1
EDIT-

This is taken from MysticParts order page for the click button

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/36N-50.aspx

MULTI USE:
This item is used on multiple models.
REPLACES ORIGINAL NUMBER 36N-50 ON SOME REELS

READ ME:
On Older reels originally using 36/1-50 or 36-50 clicker button and 35-50 click tongue, the newer style parts ("N" in part number) will not fit. ( which I have )

Compare your clicker button to the image.



If it is the older style with the wider inside diameter, you will need to use part number 36C-50 Click Button Assembly if you need a new clicker button or click tongue.

THIS APPLIES TO THESE REELS:
20, 20T
30, 30S, 30SW, 30T, 30TW
50, 50S, 50SW, 50T, 50TW, 50W
80 (Int), 80S, 80SW
130 (Int), 130H, 130S, 130ST

The picture of their newer 36C-50 assembly has threaded collars to hold it in place.

If that's the case, must I REMOVE the old pressed in tube from the side plate to install the newer assembly??   ???

Has anyone done this fix before?

Thanks

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Dominick

Bula Erik:  I sold my 80 so I have nothing to compare it to, but it looks like that is designed that way or I am missing something?  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

erikpowell

I think you're right Dom.. the more I stare at it the more it seems by design...and with no zinfluence  ;D

So can any other of you penn gurus verify for me I'd have to remove the pressed in clicker housing in order to install the
new updated 36C-50 click assembly?

..and if it's even possible to get that pressed fitting out?

Thanks guys.... Have a great evening Dom!

jonathan.han

#4
I've never tried it, but seeing as how the newer clicker assembly has a retaining nut, the housing is seated on a shoulder of some sort in order to secure the external side of the housing to the exterior of the sideplate. Merely pressing out the old housing may result in a hole that the updated housing has nowhere to catch and remain stationary or even fit in at all. If the hole needs to be machined, lining up the hole to mill the hole to the appropriate diameter will be risky without a fixture/jig and a mill with DRO.

Bottom line: Just use what came with it. The clicker will function the same. The reason they updated the clicker housing was due to corrosion issues at the mating surfaces of the clicker housing and sideplate and that just bolting it in there was more cost-effective during manufacturing. Just be sure to allow some Corrosion-X and TSI to seep into the mating surfaces to inhibit corrosion issues there. Personally, I have never seen a problem with either part revision.
raw instinct

kermits

Erik,

You will need to remove the existing clicker shaft. That is an easy process. Support the side plate on a padded surface or vise with the inside up in a manner that will allow you to drive out the existing shaft. Insert a pin punch into the existing shaft and engage the interior shoulder. Use a hammer to drive out the old shaft. The existing hole left in the side plate will accept the new clicker assembly, which can be secured with the included nut and lock washer.

You should have no problem completing the clicker replacement.

Good luck!

erikpowell

Thanks you guys...good info. Parts are on their way from scotts... Mo was super helpful there. due diligence on her part sorting through all the revisions... she even had to revise some revisions on her side but I think its sorted out now.

Will update the progress when I get the parts!

Cheers!

Tightlines667

Hey eric,
Sorry to pull up this old thread, but I was wondering how you finally ended up sorting out the replacement clicker on the 80.  I have sicessfully modified pawls to fit in the old style clicker shaft, and have pressed the shaft out and replaced it with the newer assembly as well.  Which way did you end up going?  & What part numbers did you use for the newer replacement?  These clicker parts always give me trouble on all of the older international I series reels, and I'm sure we are not the only ones who have ran into trouble here.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

triumphrick

Answer for anyone trying to replace these older Intl 30, 50 or 80 clickers with the newer 36C-50.

Drive the old clicker housing out from the inside to the outside of the reel. The new clicker needs to be tightened a good bit as there is notheig to prevent it from turning when being operated...