Tutorial AVET JX Single Speed Reel: Teardown, Inspect, Clean, Lube, Reassembly

[josa1]

07/11/2017 Just completed transferring pictures from Photobucket hosted to being hosted by this site. I am so happy to have the first of a few posts corrected. 
__________________________________________________________

I recently purchased an Avet JX 6/1 single speed reel from a seller on Bloody Decks.  The reel came with 65 pound spectra, approximately 100 yard top shot of 40 pound smoke grey mono and a rod clamp and that was it.  My purpose of buying the reel was to fish it for wahoo on either bait, jigs or bombs on the Red Rooster III June Heat trip next year.  Here are some pictures of how the reel looked.....







I was very happy with the price I paid and the seller was happy.  All in all a good deal for all concerned.

Well, you know where this leads!  My first inclination is to strip the reel and see what I actually bought.  As this is my very first time to service an Avet I might make some mistakes and would not be sorry to hear from you for any clarification you can provide.

Well, first things first.....I began by reading and studying Alan's tutorial on the Avet MX.

I then downloaded the schematic from Avet's web site and gave that a thorough look see.  I'm not sure this is the actual schematic for this reel as I've found a couple of minor differences.  For instance, this reel has the unglued drag washer and instead has the retaining ring holding the drag washer in place on the spool.  I'm glad about that.

Here we go.....

First, remove the mono and discard.  Remove the spectra and store on a spare spool.


The next step is to remove the three right side plate screws.  I inspected the screws and the reel body after removal to be sure there was no corrosion.  In this case they looked fine.


Remove the right side plate and spool assembly as a unit and set aside.  This is just like the MX.


I inspected the body of the reel and the clicker assembly.  Both were dirty but not excessively so.  There are some white "powdery" deposits so common on aluminum on the frame at various locations.  I could see no signs of pitting or deep corrosion.


Remove the clicker pin "E" clip (70) holding the clicker assembly together.  I use an "Old Timer" knife that my dad used to carry and it seems to work well.  Every time I pick that knife up I think of him.


Push the clicker pin (65) towards the outside of the reel and remove the clicker arm (69) from the pin.  Remove the plastic clicker washer (67).  Remove one of the clicker springs from its mooring post.  Note at this point that the clicker arm has a specific orientation, you'll need to remember this for reassembly.  Next, push the pin out of the reel and remove the clicker housing (66) insert from the reel body.  As I did all of this I noted that the clicker was very hard to operate, I'll have to check into that as I reassemble this part of the reel.


Next, remove the plate from the right reel body.  This plate covers the main gear area.


Next, let's remove the reel foot studs (73).  Again, I note that there's a little corrosion and dried grease, but still in very good condition.

DSCN0702

Now for the reel foot (71).  This is held on with 4 allen head screws.  There's the same amount of light corrosion and dried grease.  As I get deeper into this it seems like this was a good time to service this reel, before things deteriorated even more.

DSCN0703


DSCN704


DSCN705

I clean the reel body thoroughly.  Cleaning includes all the screw holes.  I use pipe cleaners for the screw holes, they work great.

DSCN0754

Lets put the clicker mechanism back together.

First, I lube the inside of the reel body where the clicker is positioned.  Then the clicker housing area.

DSCN0737

Insert the clicker housing (66) from the outside of the reel body and insert the clicker pin (65) through the housing.  Then, install the clicker washer (67) on the pin and connect one of the clicker springs to its anchoring post.

DSCN0738

Install the clicker arm (69) on the pin and then pull the other spring onto its anchoring post.  Add a little lube....

DSCN0739

and install the "E" clip on the pin to hold the clicker arm in place.  And we're finished with this part.

DSCN0740

Next, lets remove the spool assembly from the right side plate.

Start by removing the preset knob (49) from the spool shaft (4) that protrudes thru the right side plate.  I like to start with the drag lever in the "free spool" position

DSCN0786

Remove the preset knob (49) with the preset knob detent (49a) , the preset knob spring (48) and the preset drive washer (46).  Here is where I ran into another discrepancy between my reel and the Avet schematic.  The schematic shows two teflon washers under the drive washer, my reel did not have those?  It also did not have Item No. 47, the preset washer.  Wonder if was supposed to! It did look like the preset washer might be built into the drive washer on this reel.

After these components are removed the spool assembly can be pulled from the right side plate.

DSCN0787


DSCN0788

The spool assembly is removed from the right side plate.


DSCN0789

Lets go ahead and dismantle, clean and reassemble the spool assembly.

Here is the spool assembly as it came off the right side plate.

DSCN0798

Remove the pinion gear (22) and the brake disk assembly.  The assembly has the anti reverse gear (20), the anti reverse gear retainer ring (21), the brake disk (18) and the brake disk bearing (17).  Pry up the retaining ring.

DSCN0811


DSNC0812

Remove the retaining ring and the anti reverse gear.

DSCN0813

Then, remove the brake disc bearing from the disk.  I used a bearing puller and it popped right out.

Next, remove the spool spring (16) and the two spool spring washers (15).  There is one spool spring washer on each side of the spring.

DSCB0801

Remove the brake pad retainer and the brake pad (12)

DSCN0802

The brake pad, and spool area where it rests, are in excellent condition.  The deposit you see on the spool is grease.

DSCN0803

Now, remove the spool shaft from the spool by pulling it out from the clicker gear side of the spool.  Note the position of the various components. When we reinstall the spool shaft it will have on it the pusher bushing (6), six Bellville washers arranged in a ))(()) configuration, the shaft shoulder (4) and the shaft shoulder pin (4a).  Still remaining in the reel is the shaft tube (.

DSCN0805

Reach through the clicker gear with your bearing puller and remove the large spool bearing (7)

DSCN0807

Remove the spool tube (.

DSCN0808

Next, remove the clicker gear retaining ring (9) and the clicker gear (10).

DSCN0815


DSCN0817

The final piece to remove is the small spool bearing (14).

DSNC0718

Here is a picture of all the pieces that make up the  shaft spool in the order they are to be reinstalled.  Note the spool bearings are only shielded on one side.  The shielded side is to face outside the spool.

DSCN


DSCN0721

It all goes together like this.


DSNC0810

This would be a good time to clean up the parts and reassemble the spool, while the part locations are fresh in our mind.

First we'll remove the shields from the spool bearings and clean those.  On the "Blue Shield" bearings I use a hobby blade to pry the shield upward near the inside bearing race and then work around the bearing to completely remove it.

DSCN0819


DSCN0820

I wash the bearings in cleaning solution.  They will be blown out with compressed air.

DSCN0821

i proceed to clean all the other components..

DSCN0822


DSCN0823


DSCN0824

Remove the shields from the brake disc bearing

DSCN0814

and clean them thoroughly in the cleaning solution.

DSCN0823

I clean some other parts...

DSCN0822


DSCN0824

Here are some the the parts I thought required cleaning.  I drain them off on a piece of newspaper, then blow and wipe them dry.  I bought an air compressor from Autozone about 10 years ago on sale for $88.00.  I use it all of the time and it's one of my best tool investments!


DSCN0826

After drying the parts, we need to put the shields back on the spool bearings


DCSN0827


DCSN0829

Lube the spool recess for the large spool bearing..

DSCN0831

Lube the bearing...

DSCN0832

and install it in the spool.  Follow up with the clicker gear.

DSCN0833

and clicker gear retainer.

DSCN0834

Lube the spool shaft with a very light coat of grease.

DSCN0836

Put the pusher bushing, Bellville washers, shaft shoulder and shaft pin on the spool shaft and insert it into the spool through the large bearing.  The small side of the pusher bushing rides against the spool bearing inner race.  I apply a light coat of grease to these components.

DSCN0837

Push into place and then install the spool tube.

DSCN0839

Lightly lube the spool recess for the small spool bearing and install that.  It was a little hard to push the bearing into its spool recess.  I found that I could use the pinion gear as a push tool to align the bearing with the slot and then was able to push right into place.  Prior to installation, I lubed the bearing with oil.

DSCN0838

Lube the spool where the drag washer will ride.  I use Cal's Drag Grease.

DSCN0840

Put a fresh coat of drag grease on the drag washer and remove the excess.  Install the drag washer followed by the retaining ring.

DSCN0842


DSNC0844

Install the spool spring washers and spool spring.

DSNC0845

I decided to use grease in the brake disk bearing even though it originally came with oil as the lubricant.  The bearing was packed and the shields were reinstalled.  I thought that grease would not influence free spool adversely and would provide better lubrication of the bearing while under load.  I guess time will tell.

DSCN0846

Lube the brake pad where the bearing and pinion gear will be installed.  Insert the bearing and then install the brake pad on the spool shaft.

DSCN0847

Insert the completed spool with shaft in place back into reel frame making sure to properly align the shaft pin with the slot cut in the reel frame..

DSCN0848

If you install it incorrectly you'll have the gap between the spool and reel frame as pictured below.  If that occurs just rotate the spool shaft until the shaft pin falls into position in the slot in the reel frame..

DSCN0743

Here, the spool if fully seated in the reel frame.  Note the gap is gone.

DSCN0744

Time to move on to the right side plate.

Look carefully at this picture.  This shows the proper orientation and appearance of the main gear (28), the anti reverse connecting arm (25), the friction ring (26), friction washer (27), the dog cover (33) and dog (31) when all are properly installed.  Also shown is the right side plate pinion bearing (23) which I've gathered from numerous posts has proven to be a little problematic.

DSCN0714

I tried working on the right side plate components in different sequences.  I found the best sequence for me was to first remove the anti reverse components, then the crank am assembly and finally, the main gear shaft components.  When I remove the crank arm assembly first, the gear shaft was sliding back in forth and I was afraid I might damage the anti reverse drive shaft.

So, to begin,

Remove the dog cover screws (32) and the dog cover (33) to expose the anti reverse dog (31).

DSCN0715

Carefully, so as not to bend or damage the connection arm, lift the dog to remove it from its machined recess.

DSCN0771

Now, rotate the gear shaft until the dog connection arm is clear of the friction spring.  At this point it can be removed and set aside.

DSCN0769

It is now safe to remove the crank arm assembly without concern about the anti reverse dog connection arm.

In order, remove the locking plate screws (54), the locking plate (53), the acorn nut (52), the crank arm washer (51) the crank arm (50) and finally, the drive shaft washer (40).

Note that the drive shaft washer has a raised area on one side.  During reassembly, be sure that the washer is installed so that the raised area is riding against the inner race of the outside drive shaft bearing.

DSCN0712

Here are the components of the the crank arm assembly.

DSCN0713

Remove the drive shaft (24), which contains the wire friction ring (26), the friction washer (27) and the main gear (28) from the side plate.

DSCN0790

Next, remove the inside drive shaft bearing.

DSCN0793

Then the gear shaft tube..

DSCN0794

and then the outside gear shaft bearing.  You will then have these components available for inspection, cleaning and lubing.

DSCN0795

Next, using your bearing puller, remove the pinion bearing (23).  On this reel, the pinion bearing was VERY tightly bound into the side plate and was very hard to remove.  I placed the side plate containing the bearing under hot water to expand the side plate and after heating it for about a minute the bearing popped right out.  I used the wood probe in the background of this picture to help push the bearing out.  After it was removed, I used a very fine 600 grit sand paper to polish the side plate pinion recess until the bearing would slide in and out without requiring any undue pressure.  The bearing is still tight in the side plate but I believe it can now be removed without too much trouble.

DSCN0716

Finally, remove the stop pins (34) and stop pin screws (35) from the outside of the plate.

DSCN0717

Now we can clean the right side plate components and prepare for reassembly.

Let's look at the bearings....

First the pinion bearing.  Remove the shield.  Plenty of lube on this side.

DSCN0747

This side, not so much!  The bearing has no lube on this side.

DSCN0748

The gear shaft bearings...Remove the shields, they come off easily, I use a razor blade or hobby knife.

DSCN0753

They're surprisingly dirty.

DSCN0752

Time to clean components up and get ready to reassemble.

Clean the side plate, bearings, main gear, shaft etc. in the cleaning solution.

DSCN0749


DSCN0751

After cleaning and drying, begin reassembly.  Our process is the reverse of dismantling.  First the drive shaft assembly, then the crank arm assembly and finally, the anti reverse connection arm.

Begin by packing the pinion bearing and crank shaft bearings with fresh grease.  Reinstall the shields (optional, I believe, in this case).

DSCN0755

Apply a light coat of grease on the interior side plate walls, paying attention to the pinion recess and the drive shaft opening.  Push the pinion bearing into position.

DSCN0756

Insert the outer drive shaft bearing (29) into its recess on the outside of the plate.  Then assemble the friction washer (27) with friction ring (26), the main gear (28), the inside drive shaft bearing (also 29) and the drive shaft tube (39) on to the drive shaft and insert into the side plate, guiding the drive shaft through the outer drive shaft bearing.  This is all pretty straight forward.

DSCN0766

Set the side plate on the work surface with the main gear facing down and begin the reassembly of the crank arm.

Prior to assembly, I give each of these components a light coat of grease at contact points.  Install the drive shaft washer with the raised lip positioned against the inner race of the outside crank shaft bearing.

DSCN0712


DSCN0870

Install the handle..

DSCN0871

And the crank arm washer, acorn nut, locking plate and screws.

DSCN0872


DSCN0876

Be sure to add grease to the lock plate screw holes.

DSCN0877

Next, begin installation of the anti reverse connection arm and dog. Hang the connection arm on the friction ring pin.

DSCN0769

Rotate the gear shaft until the arm is under the friction ring as shown.

DSCN0770

On the opposite end of the arm install the dog in the orientation shown.  Lube the dog recess with oil.

DSCNO771

Install the dog cover and screws.  When finished, rotate the crank arm handle backwards and forwards to be sure the dog is moving freely.

DSCN0773

We can now install the right side plate on to the reel frame.  I start by lubing the pinion gear and putting it into the pinion bearing.

DSCN0873

Lube the reel frame and holes where the three screws will fasten the side plate to the frame.

DSCN0875

Start the spool shaft through the pinion bearing and bring the two sides together and line up the screw holes.  You have to "feel" this because the pinion gear has to mate up with the drag plate.  I tried this technique with the pinion gear in the drag plate and with it in the pinion bearing.  I seemed to have better luck with the latter.

DSCN0868

After mating the components up, install the three hold down screws.

Time to install the lever assembly.  First lube the male cam (41)  and male cam pins (42).

DSCN0878

Lube the interiors of the lever and put it on the male cam so that its touching the free spool stop
pin.

DSCN0880


DSCN0881

Install the drive washer (46), the preset spring and preset knob.

DSCN0884

As you tighten the knob, only do so until all of the slack is removed but the lever, when placed in the strike position, is just at the "no drag" position.  I'm a little concerned from reading AT's postings that if you over tighten the preset knob and then move the lever into the strike or full drag position, that the thrust bearing could be damaged.  It is best to wait until the reel is fully assembled to put the drag in fishing position and testing it out.

DSCN0885

We can now put the reel foot on the reel..

Lube the reel foot screws, the screw holes in the reel frame, the reel frame where the reel foot sets.  Good lubrication in these areas will offer good protection against future corrosion.


DSCN0886

DSCN0887

DSCN0888

After the reel foot is installed with the four allen head screws, we're complete!

DSCN0889

[sundaytrucka]

Great post and breakdown. Thanks!!!

[Dominick]

That is one of the best yet.  Great photos and explanation.  Dominick

[Ron Jones]

Fantastic tutorial. Thank you for all the work. But I gotta admit, their's a bunch of doo-dads in that reel that just seem more than I want to deal with.
Ron

[erikpowell]

That is one of the best yet.  Great photos and explanation.  Dominick

x2 ... Thanks for that Josa... nicely done!

Let us know when you check the drag numbers, let's see what you get!

[Bryan Young]

Well done Josa. Great photos and explainations/descriptions.

[Chris Gatorfan]

Now that's a post for sure. Great job with it, very impressed.

[josa1]

Hi Folks,

Thanks for the nice comments.  I did enjoy taking this reel apart. If I wasn't such a computer and camera dufus it would take me a lot less time and effort to do a post like this.  Its not like work though, I just have fun doing it.

Gatorfan, Bet you're keyed up for Monday's game.  Good luck to all you football fans.  The next few weeks will be great for us, starting with the Oklahoma/Alabama game today.  I'm sure looking forward to today's contest and to the rest of the college season.  Wrapped around it all is the NFL playoffs. WOW!

I'm not really going to look at drag numbers on this reel.  I'll use 30 pound line with a 37 pound wire leader to live bait fish for wahoo with a drag setting of around 10 pounds.  From what I've felt tho, this reel is capable of putting out heavier numbers than I plan to use and that just might overpower the pinion bearing.  However, as has been noted on this board, the pinion bearings are not that expensive, so if you want, just get a few of those for spares & you can then crank the drag to heavier settings.  Then, if the bearing gets damaged, you can just change it out.  I might get a spare or two with that in mind.

I don't think heavier drags would damage any of the other reel components.  What do you guys think?

[Bryan Young]

If you replace the pinion bearing with a thrust or angular contact bearing, you may probably double the max drag numbers without damage.

[josa1]

Thanks Bryan.  That's a good idea. I guess I need to do a little research....a) What size bearings to buy that will fit.  b) Where to find or order them.  c)  How much they cost.  d)  How much to they increase the maximum drag capability?  and so forth.  Sounds like a good project.  I know that someone on this board has been looking into this, I just haven't had the need to follow up on that thread because I didn't have an Avet.  I'll look at it more closely now.  Do you know if Avet is contemplating offering these types of bearings?

[Bryan Young]

We looked into it a while back and I believe the angular contact bearing was $50 or $60.  Way to expensive to experiment with. 

[wallacewt]

good stuff,
i will be interested in what freespool you get
thks

[alantani]

great work, joe!  send me a pm with your address.  i've got a wrench to send to you!   

[saltydog]

Great work, very impressive.

[doradoben]

I enjoyed reading your tutorial very much. I understand the purpose of the coating on the spool arbor, but don't know what the material is that was applied. Thanks for posting this.