Maxell Seawolf 80w

[jonnou]

Maxel 80w Seawolf
This is a warts and all tutorial.
It taught me a bit about procedure.
I went in from the left, serviced the spool and reassembled.
I should have separated the right side before reassembly. Would have been easier to follow.
Thought I could just change order of Photos and delete a few but that was a nightmare!!

Anyhow here it is a Brand new 80 class reel.
Perfect working order lets pull it apart
(Alan Tani You have created a Monster)




And a few more bits



Anodizing looks great. Machining finish good. Looks solid and simple. Let's have a look
Remove six side plate screws (key305) I used tool provided. (key723)
Separate frame and spool (key 343 and 341)




Note position of pins. They are not shown on schematic that came with reel but it also
does not show the extra harness lugs.
More about these later. 
Also locate and note position or 6 small o rings around screws.



All laid out.  Everything is dry. Some of the o rings crushed.
They look like they go in recesses either side of spool.
But they are doubled up in some places. some fell out.
They don't make any sense



Here is a pic of anti-reverse gear and some of the o rings in recess.
All dry in here too. Red grease on dogs.
  In hindsight I should have backed out these screws and greased them



Anti-reverse gear (key 250) and drag cover plate cooling shield (key 346)



Other side of spool showing Pinion gear and alarm sound slice (key 300 and 303)



Here is a shot of the anti-reverse dog and bearing in Left side plate



Remove Bearing key556



Bearing measures 22mm OD 8mm id x 7mm



Lots of red grease. Not bad.
Push in a bit more



Replace bearing.  Grease on inside of plate ready for reassembly.
Note the o rings this is not the right places.



Now for the spool
Take out the six tiny screws in the cooling shield (key346)
I will look for some Allen head screws for this. These are very small fragile looking screws!!
Make sure you have the right size driver.
Separate drag washer pressure plate assembly as a unit (key 344 and 369).
Carbon fiber washer Has 4 light smears of grease on it. Cannot even spread it.
Good coating of cals drag grease and spread excess on friction washer (key363)




Turn spool over and remove pinion gears (key 304 and 303) nicely greased with the red



Remove gear shaft pin (key 283) and Bellevue washers (key 301)



Remove bearing 22od 8id x7 and this is what you have left



Spread the grease around



Remove gear shaft and drag side bearing. This is how it all goes Long tail on shaft to drag side.
Bellevue's (())  (())



Shaft again



Both washers for spool are the same size but different shield than left side plate. Hard to remove the shields on all these bearings. The spool bearings had a light clear grease and were well packed.  I forced some more in



Bearing back in and light coating of cals drag grease on all metal surfaces in here



Spring (key 315) and pin (key 283)



Some grease in holes all ready for drag. Replace drag and pressure plate as a unit (glued)
And install cooling shield. Six tiny screws



Turn spool over and replace Bellevue washers and pin (Key283)
Grease is spread over all the unexposed areas



High and low speed pinions back on 



Spool back in
And side plate back on
Anti-reverse gear ratchet in place in side plate (key 250)
I wouldn't do it this way again but it is possible
Much easier to reassemble from RH plate



All back together and working fine. Called it a night here.
Next day emptied one of my 24kg reels onto spool and tested drag.
Little bit of startup but plenty of smooth drag. Kept breaking the nylon
Will need something better to test to full extent.
Was set at about 9kg from box but has lots of adjustment before you lose freespool
Tested to at least double that but broke a rod holder in the boat





Now for the drive end

Remove the six side plate screws. Tool provided and separate
Note position of harness lugs and o rings (O-rings strange on this side too)







Remove e clip (key294)





Remove Nut (key 258)



Drive shaft spring (key 313)



Gear washer (key 323)



Low speed gear (key 291) then High speed gear (key 290)



Remove spring (key 313) then slide knob (key 293) then spring (key 312)



All laid out minus one spring



Here is the other spring



Two little washers on the bearing. Look at schematics (key 318)
Drag control lever thrust spring will put these on the spool shaft





Slide out handle assembly as a unit




Drive shaft washer and thrust washer.Thicker one on top (key 266 and 299)



Remove three screws (key 909) on lever hub (key 357) and remove as a unit




Remove freespool lever (key356) note position. I didn't



The three washers (key 227) and the other two not on schematic



Preprogram screw and key (key261 and 262)
This comes out on inside of side plate under the bearing. flat side in



Remove four screws in limited plate (key 354)
Note Loctite was on most of the screws.
This was replaced with grease in all holes and on all screws.




Remove limited plate



Remove limited button and spring.
Strike stop and spring (key 367 366 373 366)



Unscrew these two screws. not shown on schematic





Separate front plate from side plate. Dry as a bone in here.




spring (key 365). I'm leaving this together



Everything gets a thorough greasing.
I believe this is going to be a corrosion point.
Not being able to separate these parts would not be good



Back together



Grease in screw holes



Good coat of grease in here too



These surfaces too some are exposed but it will wipe off easy enough



Stops and springs back in



Alarm lever (key 355) oops didn't show it coming off





Inside of limited plate. Stainless against aluminum. Should I make a gasket???



Coat of marine grease for now



Limited plate back on



Grease screws and holes



Freespool lever



Don't forget the gaskets and position I have this out 1/4 turn. Had to back right up to put right



Hub cover on. Grease in holes



Handle back in
Notice the two speed lever 180 out. Easy fix though



Turn it over



Drop this unit back in



I suggest you test the freespool lever out now



Bearing back in



Spring first then knob





High speed gear



Washer



Low speed gear



Next washer



Larger spring



All ready to go. Bearing with as much grease as possible.
All these bearings are the same size.
Will think about getting two with removable shields for sides.
That will give me two spares for spool or emergency



Nut back on



E clip back on



Frame.
Need some more grease





Ratchet in place ready for the spool



Spool in. Make sure its flush this means it's in the anti-reverse gear properly



More stainless versus aluminum. Grease this too



The three O-rings in recesses



O-rings around the locating pins and in recesses and one more
It sits in a countersunk hole that's strange
I'm sure this is how it must go!!



Place on the harness lugs



I have pushed the greased screws through the O-rings to make it easier




Put the side plate in position and replace the six screws



Now for the reel foot
Remove the four Allen head screws



This need some grease



So does this



Grease in holes and screws. then back together




Done. All screws greased except for alarm slice screws,
Friction washer screws and anti-reverse dog screws.
Next time I need to get the right sized screwdriver for these.
I did not want to Round them off.




I am reasonably happy with my purchase but I got it at a top price. The lack of protection from corrosion was a big concern but from other tutorials I have seen this could be quite standard? The drag washer was particularly bad. Very poor effort.  But that was the point that I got over my inhibitions about stripping down a brand new reel. As soon as I greased that washer I knew I had improved it substantialy and spreading that grease gives piece of mind. I have no doubts the reel will perform its task well and I hope to fish it for many years.The strangest thing was the O rings. I think I may have solved the mystery. The extra harness lugs that are not shown on the schematics are very slightly loose and the doubled up O-rings were (maybe) there to firm them up There is also the countersunk hole . I believe that this recess was missed in the CNC program (maybe) and remedied with a countersink bit before anodizing  (I hope) I'm sure they would have sorted this out by now. I am seriously thinking of making some thin PVC gaskets for these lugs to protect from electrolysis and to firm these up or a good MS inert sealant. The other corrosion concern is the Limited plate and hub plate. I work with Aluminum and am well aware of its position in the noble scale .only zinc will sacrifice to it. Aluminum +salt+ stainless = electrolysis with aluminum being the sacrificial anode. Anodizing creates a layer of decorative aluminum oxide which is about 90% as hard as diamond but you will soon see this pit through.Sorry for the science lesson but it makes me think a barrier of thin PVC or other inert material has got to be the answer.  Hope this helps someone. And I am keen to hear any of your ideas on this reel or related issues.
Thanks All
Jon

[cwillis85]

Nice post, my favorite part was the science at the end, good info there!

[redsetta]

Nice job Jon - there's a lot of work in these tutorials!
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Justin

[jonnou]

Thanks Justin I have seen some of your tutorials.  You do a great job. Its a good feeling to give a bit back to the forum so its worth it!!


cwillis Im glad you enjoyed that bit . It is a good subject for a new thread Understanding the science will help us all in preventing corrosion (the number one enemy in a salt water environment)

thanks and cheers Jon

[jonnou]

I think I have a solution for the stainless corrosion issue. I have some clear stick on film that I got from a sign writer that i used to put on my Mobile Phone screen I will stick it to the clean stainless and leave the aluminium greased. I reckon that should do the trick.

Anyone have any feedback on this Reel good or bad. I would like some feedback. I value your opinions

Cheers Jon 

[wallacewt]

good stuff
good pics,lot of effort,broken rod holder,
that is going to last a lot longer
gasket under reel seat for sure.
this will help a lot of tanites not
just this reel
thanks

[wallacewt]

hi jon
if you need any of those
little rubber rings you can get them from
a shop that sells model boats

[gstours]

Hello; and yes you did a good job on the tutorial, should get you a wrench easy is my vote.  The Reel looks good,  It seems like the manufacturer copied a lot of other reels to make theirs.   And why not?  using others accomplishments can shorted the path to success. Now harm meant.  I just noticed a lot of almost identical parts in this reel that are solutions to not reinventing the wheel.   Time will tell if its a great reel........Respectfully your friend GST>

[jonnou]

Thanks Gst  maxell produce parts for a good deal of reel manufactures. I think they have the build Quality sorted. I think the execution of the assembly needs attention. Thanks for your time and efforts
Jon

[Alto Mare]

Nice job Jon! You put in a lot of work on that tutorial, I counted 100 photos.
Thanks for sharing it with us, yes a handle from the boss is well deserved.
Sal

[jonnou]

Thanks Sal I think the "boss" has one on the way for the Mitchell tutorial. I find it hard to keep the number of Photos to a minimum. I go through and delete what I think isnt required. But then when doing the descriptions You remember why you took the shot. I think this is a great way to Bluprint your reels as I find as the years go on the memory suffers from a bit of "startup' Need to put some Cals on that

[Alto Mare]

I think this is a great way to Bluprint your reels as I find as the years go on the memory suffers from a bit of "startup' Need to put some Cals on that

I could attest to that