Juddering HT-100 drag

Started by mike1010, August 31, 2014, 11:52:14 PM

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Big Tim

Quote from: mike1010 on September 06, 2014, 06:52:44 PM
No doubt, but it's the old "how much to spend" question.

How much is to be determined by the builder...I quit counting $$$ When I realized I love this hobby and that there is far worse things to spend my money on. These guys know what they are talking about and have helped me spend quite a few $$  ;D ;D ;D

I also quit counting $$$on this one

Aiala

Quote from: Big Tim on September 09, 2014, 11:31:03 PM
I quit counting $$$ when I realized I love this hobby...

Wise, indeed, Big Tim. Geez, if I even thought about how much I've spent in the last year...    
~A~
I don't suffer from insanity... I enjoy every minute of it!  :D

Shark Hunter

Life is Good!

Big Tim

I'm so sick now I'm doing this!!!!!!



Shark Hunter

That a good looking rod there Tim. I know how frugal you are and that was the best 4 bucks you ever spent! ;)
Life is Good!

Big Tim

Quote from: Shark Hunter on September 10, 2014, 02:37:42 AM
That a good looking rod there Tim. I know how frugal you are and that was the best 4 bucks you ever spent! ;)

I squeak when I walk D

mike1010

With a new right side plate, there are no drag start-up issues.  Having said that, I am skeptical that the crack was the cause; because the crack did not go all the way through to the outside of the plate, the head end of the screw was well supported.  The other end is in the bridge plate, of course, so I don't see an opportunity for the screw to move from pressure on the AR dog.  If I get the chance, I will play around with the old plate a little to try to figure out what was going on.

Thanks, all, for the suggestions to go the full monty route, but that has never been my intention for this reel.

Mike

Shark Hunter

Mike,
Plates can warp, and you can't really tell until you swap them with a new one.
Life is Good!

mike1010

That being the case, the same stresses that cracked the plate could also have warped it.

One other thing:  That little leaf spring for the AR dog looks untrustworthy to me.  Any direct replacement upgrades?

Thanks.

Shark Hunter

#24
I bought all the stainless ones Bryan had. They went to double dog goodness.
I have some Titanium sheet I am messing around with. Stock spring will work fine, just make sure its not bent in the wrong places.
You are in Jersey. Mystic Reel Parts should be able to hook you up with a new one.


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Life is Good!

mike1010

#25
Quote from: mike1010 on September 11, 2014, 07:06:38 PM
Thanks, all, for the suggestions to go the full monty route, but that has never been my intention for this reel.

Well, that was then.  After the initial upgrades, I realized the 200 was wider than I currently like, so I got a kit from MysticParts to make the 200 a 100, which became my go-to reel for bluefish chunking and togging.



Then I started thinking that the reel could use a little more drag capacity, at least for headroom, but if I was going to do that, I wanted to lose the posts.  And then there was this thread about replacing the slotted screws with socket head cap screws.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12495.0

So I ended up doing a few upgrades.

Carried over are the bridge, shimmed AT SS gear sleeve and Lee's SS dog, dog spring, under-gear Delrin washer, pinion, yoke springs, yoke, and jack.


New are the Tib frame; Black Pearl's custom spacer sleeve; socket head cap screws for the tail plate, bridge, and handle lock; a 24-56 handle; a 10-66 star from Mr. Tani, and Bryan's five-stack topped with an acetal spring washer.  Also, I cleaned up the original, steel main gear and brought it back.


The head on the handle lock screw had to be reduced to fit.  Here is the stock screw, the replacement as it comes from McMaster, and the fitted replacement.  My Dremel skills have improved since producing the slightly conical head on the replacement.


I could not find partially threaded 6-40 SS cap screws long enough for the yoke bridge screws, so ended up turning down fully threaded ones.  The result has less meat than the original screws, but the yoke moves smoothly, and the screws should be strong enough.  Time will tell. Better Dremel skills evident here, I hope
.

This is roughly state of the art for Surfmaster drive trains, as far as I know.


Socket head cap bridge, tail plate, and handle lock screws:



When Randy gets back from the show, I hope he will be able to help me with a red 24-56, which I think the reel wants.





I didn't break lots of new ground here, but am happy to have learned enough from folks on alantani.com to put this reel together.  Thanks.



"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

foakes

Fantastic job, Mike --

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

Bryan Young

That's one mean screw working machine you got there.  I can see all of your hard work and it paid off.  Superb. 

I wouldn't worry about the yoke screws.  That bridge is held in place by 4 screws...it will take a lot of force to sheer those screws.

Thank you for sharing Mike.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Keta

Nice.

I like the 100 Surfmaster too.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

Shark Hunter

Very Nice Mike! That Reel looks Awesome! ;)
Life is Good!