International II 80S - Handle binding when in Freespool + High Gear

[boon]

I recently acquired my first International - I've always thought they were extremely cool and wanted one since I was a kid so that's quite exciting.

It's an 80S 2-speed. Cosmetically it's a little bit rough but the inside is mint and appears recently serviced, good coat of grease on everything.

The only oddity I have noticed is that when the reel is in High if you drop the drag to Free the handle binds horrendously.

Why I would ever need to turn the handle in Free is a very good question but it doesn't do it in Low. It appears to be an issue with the alignment of the drive gear to the pinion when the load comes off the pinion shaft. As soon as you apply some drag it works fine.

There is a little bit of axial play in the drive shaft.

So my questions are...

a. Should I even care?
b. Is there anything I can do about this?

Extra credit questions...
Is there anything else worth doing to this reel? The bellevilles are ()() but it already pulls more drag than I'll ever need so probably no point changing that.
The rod clamp and brace didn't come with it, whereabouts can I source these?

Thanks for any input!

[Tightlines667]

Make sure all of the parts for the 2 speed mech are clean, and only lightly greased (too much or too thick of grease can interfer with the shifting).  Consider packing all bearings with grease.  Check your drag, if its the old asbestos style consider an dura drag upgrade, and grease CF with Cal's grease, and put a little dob on each drag plate post.  If there is any noticable (more then 0.5mm side to side (in/out) play in the handle/drive shaft, shim it as appropriate (under main gear).  Otherwise keep drag chamber clean.  Consider replacing Bellevilles with new..esp if the preset takes more then 1.5 turns in to reach max drag at strike before loss of freespool.  

Follow the manufacturers instructions to synch the gears with the antireverse dogs...this is likely part of the cause of your drive shaft binding in freespool and high speed.  See attached photo for instructions or check inside the left side plate cover on your reel.  Grease all screws.  Debur spool shadt, and cam parts as needed.  Replace the clicker ratchet if holes are oblong or a grove is worn to help restore clicker.  

Get your parts at Scott's (see below)

Gear Stud Shims (buy 2 or 3)

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/154-80.aspx

Rod Clamp

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/33-130ST.aspx

Clamp Bolt (2)

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/34-80T.aspx

Clamp nut (2)

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/152A-80T.aspx

Bellevilles (4)

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/18-80W.aspx

Clicker ratchet, bearings... etc..

Note:  often worn bearings xsn not he diagnosed until they are cleaned.

Hope that helps?

Keep us posted!

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[boon]

That's more than I could have asked for, thanks heaps.

I can't get that little plate off - when I remove the 4 countersunk screws in the left side plate it won't drop out. I've even tried with the left side plate removed and giving it a knock through the middle of the bearing, is there a trick to removing these?

[Tightlines667]

Just get something thin and sharp (not the misses' fine silver!), and carefully work the plate lose by going around the edge.  A small hook, like a SS dental tool, can be used to exert lifting force from the screw holes.  A little penetratong oil and lightly tapping aroundvthe edge may help as well. 

[FatTuna]

Nice post Tightlines. Some really valuable information in there. Is that gear dog alignment only for the S model 80?

[Tightlines667]

Nice post Tightlines. Some really valuable information in there. Is that gear dog alignment only for the S model 80?

Yes.  It has a unique, but somewhat more complicated shifting design (then its predecessors, other size reels, &later cousins).  I believe the aim was to ensure the gears would always remain engaged when shifting under load.  The gears and parts are solid, but it requires a bit more 'attention' to remain functioning properly.  The adjustment is required in order to align the inner teeth of the high speed main with the outter teeth of the low speed main (when shifting from low to high.  If overgreased or excessively gummed up, the conicle spring and associating ideler gear can get hung up slightly when shifting into low as well.  Basically the adjustment turns the location of both dogs until the pinion teeth line up with the low speed main gear/drive shaft.  The adjustment allows for maintainance of synch with wear.  However, like all lever drag reels laterial wear can require shimming.  I believe this design was only found on the 80S and 80SW which was produced for 8 to 10 years, from 1985 until about 1993-95ish.  A solid reel, but I prefer the mech on the 80STW.