My 332 is eatng line!

[Sulla]

I used to have this problem with my squiders but I can't remember this happening to one of my Newells!
I'm using 30# test mono. Any thing I could do to avoid this from happening in the future ( minus of coarse avoiding the backlashes ).

[Bryan Young]

Maybe your spool is not properly centered.

[vilters]

I have a 533 that was doing the same thing. someone had ground the inner rings for clearance, and left too big a gap between the rings and the spool in places. I ended up installing a Tiburon frame, which solved the problem - with the tiburon frame, the spool flange meets the frame, not the inner ring. so as Bryan said, check spool centering, also check the rings for damage, alignment with crossbars/base, etc...

[Sulla]

I have a 533 that was doing the same thing. someone had ground the inner rings for clearance, and left too big a gap between the rings and the spool in places. I ended up installing a Tiburon frame, which solved the problem - with the tiburon frame, the spool flange meets the frame, not the inner ring. so as Bryan said, check spool centering, also check the rings for damage, alignment with crossbars/base, etc...

Thanks for the info! I'll look for those issues. Who knows , maybe this is the perfect excuse to convert my reel to a tibed out 322!😀

[thinkwahoo]

Your frame may have gotten out of "square" that can open up a gap (usually at the bottom of the spool) that will allow a loop of line to get behind the spool.  If the cage frame is square there should be no more than 7 to 7 and a half thousands between the outer edge of the spool and the inside cage rings, and if the cage is square you could effectively fish 10# mono on the reel.

I use a fixture to fit inside the cage (in your reel it would be 2 1/8" wide) then slowly tighten down all the screws to "square" up the cage.  If you don't have something like a fixture you can pull both the side plates off, loosen all the assembly screws. This will allow the cage to relax. Then slowly begin tightening the assembly screws, first on one side then the other till they're snug. Sometimes this will square up the cage. Install the side plates and see if the ridge on the outside of the spool shows the same exposure all the way around the frame.

Next would be centering the spool using the nylon split rings on the right side bearing cup (provided you have an early reel). There are five of these split rings which allows the bearing cup to tighten into the side plate. Red is the thinnest then blue then orange the white, and finally black. Each of these rings is 10 thousands thicker/thinner than the previous color.

If the spool is too far to the left then install a thicker split ring to move the bearing cup to the right, and visa versa if the spool is too far to the right then use a thinner split ring.

Finally, the plastic spools in the later reels are smaller in diameter than the aluminum spools, and the early plastic spools. By installing a late production spool in an early frame will open up a larger gap between the edge of the spool, and the inside cage ring.  Even then the gap should not allow line to get between the inside cage rings and the spool.

[foakes]

It is possible wahoo has it right --

These frames and particularly the left sideplate were assembled originally on a factory jig.

So while it is not recommended to disassemble them completely -- if they have been taken down or loosened (sometimes necessary, no way around it) -- they need to be trued up.

Good luck and let us know how you do.

Best,

Fred

[Sulla]

Your frame may have gotten out of "square" that can open up a gap (usually at the bottom of the spool) that will allow a loop of line to get behind the spool.  If the cage frame is square there should be no more than 7 to 7 and a half thousands between the outer edge of the spool and the inside cage rings, and if the cage is square you could effectively fish 10# mono on the reel.

I use a fixture to fit inside the cage (in your reel it would be 2 1/8" wide) then slowly tighten down all the screws to "square" up the cage.  If you don't have something like a fixture you can pull both the side plates off, loosen all the assembly screws. This will allow the cage to relax. Then slowly begin tightening the assembly screws, first on one side then the other till they're snug. Sometimes this will square up the cage. Install the side plates and see if the ridge on the outside of the spool shows the same exposure all the way around the frame.

Next would be centering the spool using the nylon split rings on the right side bearing cup (provided you have an early reel). There are five of these split rings which allows the bearing cup to tighten into the side plate. Red is the thinnest then blue then orange the white, and finally black. Each of these rings is 10 thousands thicker/thinner than the previous color.

If the spool is too far to the left then install a thicker split ring to move the bearing cup to the right, and visa versa if the spool is too far to the right then use a thinner split ring.

Finally, the plastic spools in the later reels are smaller in diameter than the aluminum spools, and the early plastic spools. By installing a late production spool in an early frame will open up a larger gap between the edge of the spool, and the inside cage ring.  Even then the gap should not allow line to get between the inside cage rings and the spool.

This is some great information!! Thanks for taking the time to explain.  I'm going to tear down the reel this weekend and try and square up the reel and see if that rectifies the problem. I'll let you know how it goes.