Quick 550 spool qs

[scorman1]

I have gotten my second 550 and I have seen a problem with both, whereby the red knob tightens as the line is pulled out when cranked down.
On the first, I thought that a washer was missing above the spool, so a small "polished" SS  washer was inserted and the problem went away.
I had thought that the bottom of the knob was dragging the top of the spool or there was too much friction from the nub that extends down to the drag washer. When the second unit arrived with the same problem, I am now questioning whether some grease should be applied to that top drag washer. I only have the 440 manual and it does NOT show any lube at this point on that spool.

The second problem is a spool failure, whereby it sheared in half. Is this a known phenomena? It is possible the the 30# mono  had been there for 15+ years (was wrinkled) exerting a constant force up and down to cause a fracture fatigue. Was thinking of superglue? Plastic solvent?

Stew

I have attempted to attach a photo, but not sure how it works on this forum

[Rancanfish]

I don't know if you have tried, but maybe a PM to Fred Oakes (our resident Quick pro) would get you an answer.

[foakes]

Hi Stew --

Is this a 550 or a 550N?

A few of the early Quicks have metal spools -- 265, Finessas, 270 Supers, etc..

On the plastic spools, they will break if mono is allowed to stay on the spool too long, was spooled too tight, or improperly -- with too much pressure from either a power line winder or by hand.

Braid will break the spools even quicker -- and also gouge the edges with grooves.  

I have tried to glue these -- but have never found a glue or solvent capable of doing the job satisfactorily.

If you or someone else finds something that works -- let us all know.  This would be helpful for Quick, Mitchell, Ryobi, Cardinal, Shimano, and more.

On the drag knob turning -- something is out of order or wrong in the stack, knob, or under spool/spindle washers.  Pics would help.  Then we can get you back in order with the right set up.

New, fresh line -- is our cheapest and best insurance for a good fishing experience -- replace it every year.  Dispose of the old line properly, so birds and animals don't have a life threatening issue.  I save all of mine in a 33 gallon  barrel with a lid -- then just burn it every year in the brush piles as we clean our property.  That way, it doesn't end up in a land fill -- where seagulls and other birds end up tangled in it.  This may not be as responsible as other methods -- but I will not take the chance on a land fill dump doing the right thing.  Just because we put it into the "recycling can" doesn't mean it will not harm innocent birds and critters.

So we, as responsible outdoor folks -- should make sure the mono is harmless to wildlife -- and encourage others to do so also.

It starts with each of us doing our best.

Thanks,

Fred

[scorman1]

Hey Fred,

I have tried to glue these -- but have never found a glue or solvent capable of doing the job satisfactorily.

If you or someone else finds something that works -- let us all know.  This would be helpful for Quick, Mitchell, Ryobi, Cardinal, Shimano, and more.6

Good 'ol superglue .....worked like a champ!
Cleaned both surfaces with solvent, let dry, coated both matching surfaces,  placed on reel w/o drag discs, cranked down the red knob for compression, careful to line up casting seams. Let sit for a day ... no rush

Now that it can be reassembled, I didn't see any instructions for oil or grease on the drag surfaces .....presume they are not left dry....any sggestions?

Fred, thx again for sharing all your expertise here,
Stew

[Rancanfish]

I'm happy to see that Stew.  I had no idea they could separate and felt bad.

[foakes]

You might try a couple of winds of that HD black Gorilla tape on the spool arbor.

If it happens to crack again -- the tape will hold it in place.

Cracking of the plastic spools happens when the mono expands after being on the spool too long.

I generally put a cork arbor, tape, or 10 yards of dacron on the arbor -- before spooling the mono.

These reels were made before greased drags came into use.  The drags are hard fiber or asbestos, like a brake lining on a car.

I have many times used Penn HT-100 washers -- and just cut them down a bit -- grease with Cal's -- and the performance is much better and smoother.

Best,

Fred

[scorman1]

Disregard my last post ...the superglue failed today when I reloaded the spool.
Trying to pull it apart by hand is only a fraction of the force as line is wound over and over.
I need to research what solvents might "weld" this plastic.

If anyone can identify the class of plastic typically used in these fishing spools, it would be a help.
I see some references to Valox which is a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) and/or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) polymer.
They are for the most part solvent resistant.

OT- Fred:
You made some comments about the Quick newer "N" models but didn't elaborate. If I am looking for a 330 vs 330N, is the newer model (which doesn't allow switching left to right) constructed better or worse than the non "N" models or is it irrelevant? Someone else on the board stated he like the handling of the N better, but that doesn't relate to how they are constructed inside.

thx,
Stew

[foakes]

Stew --

In my opinion, the 330 is by far the better reel opposed to the 330N.

While the 330N is a very good reel (series includes 110N, 220N, 330N, 331N, 440N, 441N, 550N) -- there are a few things I consider better about the 330 Finessa (series includes 110, 220, 221, 330, 331, 440, 550).

A/R system on the 330 is much superior to the 330N.

A/R system stops the back of the main gear -- between the steel handle axle and main gear -- this tends to eliminate rotor tweak and alignment issues.  No aluminum A/R parts like on the 330N.  A/R is best served in near the handle and main -- never at the end of the drive train where momentum can distort parts.  Stop the drive train as close as possible to the energy source (your hand and crank arm) -- and in line with the blueprint center axis.

While the spool on a 330 is plastic -- it can be switched out for a metal spool from the earlier Finessa series.

Springs and keepers are stronger and more reliable on the 330.

Handle crank is reversible.

Stronger drag system.

Better drag knob.

Construction is very good on both reels -- just my preference for the engineering aspect.  The "N" was made to be a little more user friendly and a little sleeker appearance.

Both good reels -- but when a big fish is on -- I'd rather have a 330.

Few years ago, the son of an older gentleman from Yugoslavia contacted me regarding obtaining (2) restored to new 331 DAM Quick High Speeds for his 80 year young Dad who had his stolen after using them for 30+ years.  He asked for the older metal spools, since he fished for large Carp in the canals.  They could go 25 to 100 pounds.

Because of shipping issues and problems -- sent the reels to his son in Ontario, Canada -- who sent them to his sister in Germany -- who drove 800 miles to deliver them to her Father.

There has to be a glue that would repair those spools -- I have quite a few broken ones, also (mono expansion).  Picked up a new glue called TacGlue at the Fred Hall Show last March.  It is pretty spooky how it bonds to nearly anything (used on firearms, etc.).  Might clamp up a couple and let you know -- couldn't hurt -- they are useless now.

Best,

Fred

[scorman1]

Experiment #2:
Took out the 15min 2 part epoxy, cleaned with solvent, coated both sides of joint, careful to not let spread to inside where last brake disc sits.
Also buttered the outer surface of the joint and fitted a wrap to give more glueing surface area. Let it cure for two days, put in totaster oven for an hour at 135F, just to make sure cure was complete. Rewound 25# mono and so far still intact ...will give an update if it fails again.
If I were doing it again, I'd take a strip of plasterers fiberglass joint tape the width of the spool and wrap it three times and goo up with epoxy, ORr butter the core of the spool and wind some dacron braided squidding line or the equivalent, then saturate from the outer surface.

BTW Fred,

There has to be a glue that would repair those spools -- I have quite a few broken ones, also (mono expansion).  Picked up a new glue called TacGlue at the Fred Hall Show last March.  It is pretty spooky how it bonds to nearly anything (used on firearms, etc.).  Might clamp up a couple and let you know -- couldn't hurt -- they are useless now.

TacGlue is fancy superglue ...from their site :

ETHYL CYANOACRYLATE
IS IT BETTER THAN REGULAR SUPER GLUE?
YES. IT IS A MUCH PURER FORMULA, WHICH LEADS TO A REMARKABLE DIFFERENCE IN TENSILE STRENGTH.

OT: after cleaning the drag disks and reassembling in the correct order, both the 550 spool are working just fine.
Took out my Mitchell 382 fly reels which have had sticky drag and saw that the drag discs were deteriorating.
Punched some teflon discs to size, reassembled, and seems to drag smoothly and now we'll see how long it lasts on some 30# Chinooks next week.

Stew