Lectra Shield Corrosion Inhibitor

[PacRat]

I use this product to protect electrical connections in harsh industrial environments. I mostly use it on copper but also have used it on aluminum and iron with good results. This stuff is spec'ed for our product and I can always tell when a contractor has or has not applied it as the copper will remain bright for years where applied.

The Pros are: Very good corrosion inhibitor, it is very low viscosity when applied so it capillaries into small spaces, you can apply it thin and light with one coat or layer additional applications for a thicker coat, it dries to a wax-like consistency so it's soft enough to not interfere with tight tolerances and it's very easily removed with petroleum solvents such as: WD-40, lighter fluid, paint thinner, etc.

The cons are: It stinks when first applied (don't apply in the kitchen!) but the odor goes away as it cures and the over-spray is un-pleasant (but wipes right off with WD-40)

I decided to do a quick tutorial while assembling a set of Tom's Cortez Conversion plates.

I use this by the case at work but can't bring surplus home on the airlines so I purchased a can on eBay for $14 Graybar Electric Supply also carries this.


I started with clean plates and gave them a couple of light coats. You can see that it tends to concentrate in the corners and tight spots where salt would concentrate.


I wiped the edge of the plates with WD-40 between coats so that it would not ne too thick when mounting the frame.


After installing the clicker but before installing the bearing I gave the tail-plate one final coat to protect the copper clicker ring. I also wiped the exposed edges with WD-40 to make assembly more pleasant as the Lectra Shield remains tacky until fully cured.


Here's a partially assembled frame.


I don't know yet if this is any better than laying on the grease but I like that it wont migrate or gum things up and I can apply less grease precisely where needed, I also like to use oil on my dogs as I have seen them get a little lazy if the grease is too thick or gets old. A bonus is that you can save the paper towel with over-spray and cut it into squares then put these squares with tools and parts that you don't want to rust.

This will be a long-term experiment but I will re-post each time I do maintenance on this reel.

-Mike

[handi2]

It will work just as well as grease. I've used a similar product called Fluid Film used in the marine industry and it works great.

Keith

[Alto Mare]

That looks good Mike, it gets a good coating everywhere. Is it runny or does it stick in place?

[PacRat]

Sal, It goes on light like WD-40 and you can spray very light coats. I had these plates laying flat so it didn't run but it will if you apply it too heavy. It layers really nice and each coat gets darker and less apt to run. These plates had 3 coats. When it cures it is a lot like wax. You can scrape it with your fingernail (or scratch dates into it with a toothpick). I like to use a Q-tip with WD-40 or lighter fluid to clean it out of the threads before installing bearing cups which I like greased.
Mike

[smnaguwa]

Does it affect the electrical connection? I'm asking as the metal  connection or outdoor light bulbs in my daughter's house in Hawaii corrodes, making it hard to remove.

[cbar45]

Now theres a product that looks promising, thanks for sharing.

Chad

[PacRat]

It's made for electrical connections. I use it on battery posts too. It should work great for your daughter's outdoor lighting. I always put Vaseline on aquarium bulbs...keeps them from corroding and getting stuck in the sockets.

[smnaguwa]

Thanks.