500/501 jigmaster

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:39:45 PM

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Poison Frog, Benni3, joens, Chris2025, thorhammer, Bill B, Donnyboat and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

alantani

there shouldn't be that much play.  i'm wondering if a new bearing/bushing would help.  you could also put a small plug of some sort inside the existing bushing to shim it over.  the spring should be there but does not matter. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

MisterStinky

Ok thanks Alan. I will have a look around for a replacement bushing.

MisterStinky

#347
Quote from: alantani on November 05, 2022, 05:45:28 AMthere shouldn't be that much play.  i'm wondering if a new bearing/bushing would help.  you could also put a small plug of some sort inside the existing bushing to shim it over.  the spring should be there but does not matter. 

Thanks, plugging the bushing did the trick! I did look online for a new bushing but it would almost cost the same as a new jigmaster to post to Australiastan. Didnt have anything suitable to shim with. So cut a little bit of tin solder and dropped it into the bushing and melted it with a torch. A bit redneck and have lost the oiling port but no big deal I think. Anyway feels pretty smooth now.

Gfish

#348
Too late now, but some people use a delrin "dot". I use an adjustable leather punch on a delrin washer. Delrin has a nice slippery surface and is pretty tuff stuff. The spring will keep the bushing from un-screwing once you get it adjusted.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!

MisterStinky

Quote from: Gfish on November 13, 2022, 08:42:49 PMToo late now, but some people use a delrin "dot". I use an adjustable leather punch on a delrin washer. Delrin has a nice slippery surface and is pretty tuff stuff. The spring will keep the bushing from un-screwing once you get it adjusted.

Thanks that would have been a better solution. Somehow I missed your reply sorry. I managed to find a used parts reel and swapped bearings but the other one was still doing the job when it was replaced.

I also noticed the main gear in the parts reel is steel(magnet sticks to it). Can somebody please tell me which would be the stronger gear to use, brass or steel?

Rancanfish

Steel no question. But I never crank down my drag all the way so have never damaged any brass yet.
I woke today and suddenly nothing happened.

MisterStinky

Quote from: Rancanfish on August 28, 2023, 03:07:32 PMSteel no question. But I never crank down my drag all the way so have never damaged any brass yet.

Okay thanks for your help!!

Jighead

im sure this has been asked before but i'm not seeing it when i use the search function. whats the best place to buy shims for a tiburon spool and cortez converion side plates?

Cortez_Conversions

Quote from: Jighead on April 08, 2026, 07:17:18 PMim sure this has been asked before but i'm not seeing it when i use the search function. whats the best place to buy shims for a tiburon spool and cortez
Quote from: Jighead on April 08, 2026, 07:17:18 PMim sure this has been asked before but i'm not seeing it when i use the search function. whats the best place to buy shims for a tiburon spool and cortez converion side plates?

Shoot me a PM
Visit: cortezconversions.com
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.-Sal

Chris2025

#354
I recently picked up a reel from my uncle and in my search for finding a reel clamp (which it's missing) I've quickly found it difficult to identify the make/model/specs of the reel. From what I've gathered it appears to be an early Accurate conversion consisting of:

* Accurate AccuPlates side plates (red)
* Accurate AccuFrame one-piece frame (red)
* Accurate 500 power handle
* Penn 500 internals (I assume from what I've read)

The frame is engraved "ACCUFRAMES" and the left side plate is marked "AccuPlates by Accurate Fishing Products, L.A., CA."

I'm trying to identify the exact generation and service the reel.

Here's where I'm stuck:

* I removed the four perimeter screws on the handle side.
* All four screws are identical machine screws (~1" long).
* They thread into the aluminum frame ring (blind holes), not through to the opposite side.
* With all four screws removed, the right side plate does not move at all. Not even a tiny amount.
* Star drag is completely backed off.
* Reel is in free spool.
* The spool does not appear to be releasing the side plate.

Before I start removing bridge screws, I'd like to know whether this particular generation is serviced differently than a standard Penn 500.

Questions:

1. What generation of Accurate conversion is this?
2. Is the service side actually the left side?
3. Is there another hidden fastener or retainer?
4. What is the correct disassembly sequence for these early AccuPlates/AccuFrames reels?
5. Are all my assumptions thus far incorrect?  ;D

Any help or guidance is greatly appreciated!

Maxed Out

#355
 Thats a jigmaster 500. You said 4 screws removed from right side plate, but each sideplate has 6 perimeter screws. Leave the 4 bridge plate screws in place until you've removed the headplate.

 Btw, someone musta put a different knob on that handle blade, cause the writing on the blade is supposed to be on the underside, but not a big deal, if it doesn't bother you

 Some of those accurate frames have 1/4" clamp studs(cant see the stud holes in your pic), those might be tough to locate.
Success derives from not repeating failure

MACflyer

Nice reel. Can't help with age: no idea. Had one very similar but mine didn't have a clicker. Yours might be the 99 width if frame is about 2 1/8" wide. Believe the regular 500 width is about 2 7/16". Service is same as Jigmaster. Only difference I found is you need to center the spool by adjusting both of the bearing caps.
Rick

Two rules on the boat
1. Fish where the fish are
2. See rule #1

Swami805

If you have all the screws out the side plate should come off. The spool shaft could be stuck in the pinion gear so might require a bit of wiggling and muscle to free it
I
Might have an extra clamp for it, I can check later
Do what you can with that you have where you are

Maxed Out

#358
 If the spool was stuck on the headplate, that wouldn't stop the headplate from coming off the frame. The stuck spool woukd simply come out with the headplate, even if the spool was not coming free of the headplate
Success derives from not repeating failure

Gfish

#359
Yeah. Real nice looking reel. 6-screws for each side-plate. You have what I call a "3-piece" frame 'cause I include the side-plates which both come off. If you want the easier way, take the 6-screws out of the tail(left)plate. Should come apart. Unless the spool shaft is corroded to the ball-bearing in the tail-plate.
When I service mine(Accurate Jigmaster 500 Magnum), I start with the gear-side and remove the handle/star/spring washer(s), first, cause I know I'm gonna be digging into the eccentric system, the bridge-plate/gears and the drag washers.

Unknown generation, bought mine used.
Yours looks like it's in great cosmetic condition(mine's all scratched and dented)
Check that six screws get removed from each side-plate. The 2-screws below the handle on the gear-side plate need to be removed for a total of 6, those ones may be a little longer, than the others, that's how mine is.
Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!