Does anybody do marbeling on wraps?

[gstours]

I got into marbeling the hard way, self taught.   I would like to tank to others and see some of their work?

[Bill B]

I can barely do a straight wrap, but sure someone will chime in.....Bill

[day0ne]

Talk to Jon Vadney in his section of this board. He does some of the prettiest marbling I have seen.

[Jeri]

Hi,

We do a fair bit of marbling, as and when clients ask for it. Generally for decorations and not critical areas, we marble straight onto the blank after a prep coat of clear resin.

Over guide wraps/whippings, we tend to wrap the rings in black thread, then a light coat of resin to set and hold the ring in place. The following day we then apply the marbling - very carefully to avoid getting it all over the rings. Let it all dry, then the following day a coat of clear resin.

Marbling with all the fluid nature of the material is very much a case of developing your own style in how you handle and finish the material - it can be done very subtly, or in the opposite extreme - very load and busy, and just about every combination in between. Something to think about is to get a section of spare blank, and try different ways of handling the material and getting it onto the blank, then try different ways of finishing it, with needle dragging or soft spirals of needle dragging, as the whole lot turns in a machine. Another aspect is how much fluidity you achieve with the heat gun when you finish, this can achieve great results or an absolute disaster.





These were trying to emulate the new Winn grip colour scheme on the handle, and then take the theme over the rings.




This was a clients request, where we had a cross-over spiral of threadwork decoration inserted into the marbling effect at the decoration, and then a simple under ring marbling with a more plain thread wrapping to the rings.

The combinations and effects are almost limitless, and you just have to apply yourself. The biggest problem is getting colours that work together, and produce what you are looking for without going too over the top.

Hope that helps for a start.

Cheers from sunny Africa,


Jeri

[gstours]

Thanks for the comments.  I know there are a lot of applications where a thread wrap could use a facelift, and was thinking that generally another coat of finish would help the longitivity as well.
   I have mixed oil based paints with epoxys and seen colors enchance otherwise poor thread conditions.   Something for the indoor time this winter ......I have dabbled with marbeling as seen on some of my posts....... But hope to get more practice this winter.....
   Sharing tips n tricks, n piks,  is what makes this forum so Great.......

[Newell Nut]

You can marble over the threads easily. Pick up a couple bottles of the Testers paint that you like. After mixing epoxy pour a little in other mixing cups. Add a few drops of the testers color you like in a cup and another in a cup. Pick one color as a base coat and then add two to three others as the rod turns. Hit it with the torch and get some cool effects

One that I have done a lot is mix a base coat of black and put on the rod. Now mix a little gold testers in another cup and add a few drops. Torch it and it comes out really cool.
Dwight

[steelfish]

nice tips Dwight,

I still dont know if going with thread colors on my next rewrapping job or try out the marbling on the wraps, currently on the process of reading and learning about marbling


One question, the final effect on marbling is similar when using Voodoo marbling dust and using testers tints?

[Jeri]

Hi Steelfish,

Voodoo Marbling Dust is the old Bullards tints. It is exactly what we have been using for years. The little secret is to use the 'Sap' when mixing colours, as this stops colours blending and mixing into each other, preserves the boundary between colours.

The easiest way to start is get a selection of their tints, mix up some high build and then experiment. Have a long section of old rod, cleaned to try different ideas of application and then final 'working' of the coloured resins once they are on the slowly turning blank. We have found that a gentle application of heat from a heat gun on lowest settings firstly drops out all the bubbles, and then slightly awakens the rsin to allow a certain amount of flowing of the various layers you have put on - obviusly too much heat and it all turns to a mess. Then allow to set, ad you can do either fine needle drags through the finished work to get whatever effect you desire.

It is a case of experimenting and seeing the different effects develop, that way you develop your own style and unique effects. There is also a tuitional video available, which helps a lot. Try to pick contrasting colours, getting some too close to each other, tends to get blurred in what you might be trying to achieve.

Hope that helps

Cheers from sunny Africa.

Jeri

[The Great Maudu]

The Testers paint works well and is easy to find in small quantities. One thing I do is buy a bottle and let it stand for a few days to let the pigment settle to the bottom. Then carefully pour off the clear oil. This leaves you with a more concentrated color that doesn't wash out when mixed with the epoxy.

[gstours]

Thanks for the ideas, I will go to work soon on it.  I have used the gold some over black and it flows very easily as its so thin, ?  Is the lite type of epoxy coating better ? usually I get too fat on the guides.  Saltwater rods primarily.