Nylon oscillation clip 8631 for Cardinal 6--Anything better?

[PhillyJoe]

Picked up a nice clean Cardinal 6 on ebay, lured in by discussion on this site. Didn't take much persuading, I admit...

Sadly and unsurprisingly, the nylon oscillation arm clip is broken. Maybe that is why the reel looks mostly unused?

There is a seller on ebay who has the part for $15 + $5 ship, which would be worth it to me to get this baby back up fishing but I am curious if there are any current suppliers of metal clips?

Somewhere on this site, I believe I read an old post discussing this issue and pointing to a guy in the UK, I believe.

There is another seller making 3-D printed replacements but I question the shear strength of printed parts based on past experiences. They also do not have the integral metal sleeve of the originals.  (edit--Seller is Mike's Reel Repair and material listed as "engineered resin" so maybe I'm underestimating the part. Also looks milled rather than printed to my unexpert eye.)

Any suggestions or should I just bite the bullet and go for the easy ebay replacement, OEM style part?

[foakes]

Hi Joe —-

I think that the nylon block would last likely 20-30 years in a "6", provided the reel gets just a basic service every few years.  So you would be probably OK with the plastic resin oscillation clip.

However, a lot of 6-7's are used in tougher conditions —- and a metal clip block would be superior.

With a 3 or 4, I wouldn't be so concerned —- but it is your call.

Here is a complete new factory arm and metal block.  $20 total, including shipping, to you ($15 + $5).  Everything is solidly attached already as a unit with no resin, or plastic pieces.

Best, Fred

[jurelometer]

There is another seller making 3-D printed replacements but I question the shear strength of printed parts based on past experiences. They also do not have the integral metal sleeve of the originals.  (edit--Seller is Mike's Reel Repair and material listed as "engineered resin" so maybe I'm underestimating the part. Also looks milled rather than printed to my unexpert eye.)

Looks 3D printed to me.

"Engineered resin" probably means resin based 3D printing, where the part is made by zapping UV curing resins with a pinpoint light source.  These can be quite accurate, but generally not very strong parts, as the UV resin requirement limits the material used to flavors of epoxies and acrylics. A good quality FDM based 3D printer (the type that melts plastic filament) is capable of making stronger parts out of many types of plastic, including nylon.

The shearing force would be on the same plane as the the layers in a properly printed part.  This looks like a part that could successfully be FDM 3D printed in nylon, but the quality depends on who is doing the printing.  I would be reluctant to use a resin printed part. 

When Penn 720/722 crosswind blocks were unavailable for awhile, I 3D printed some and passed a few around to members. I asked for feedback on how they held up, got a little positive feedback, and nothing negative.

But now that Tom at Cortez is machining a 720/722 block(using  Ultem?), if anybody asked, I would probably just point them at Tom if they wanted a safe bet on a  durable part.

Worth taking Fred up on that offer.


-J