Penn 12/0 Drag Washers

NBStriper · August 29, 2011, 09:59:19 PM

I disassembled my old Penn 12/0 completely, cleaned and lubed everything. She spins smooth as a new reel now, but I am unsure of the proper order in which the drag washers go. So, what is the proper order??? I put it back together and it seems like it doesn't take much turning of the star to go from full to no drag. I've never used the reel and the previous owners had an electramate on it and used the reel for cod jigging, so I doubt the drag got used much and the washers look good to me. I plan on using this reel for sharks and tuna (if I'm lucky to find one) on a 130lb class rod, but it won't see too much action. Should I possibly upgrade the washers as well?

Any tips on proper rigging for bluefin tuna, porbeagle shark etc would be appreciated...

redsetta · August 29, 2011, 10:32:39 PM

G'day NB,
The drag set-up is pretty straight forward, as per the schematic here: https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/116l.pdf.
The seven drag washers should be HT-100s (#6-116), so these are fine as is (grease with Cal's, though).
Assemble as follows: HT-100 - keyed metal - HT-100 - eared metal - HT-100 - keyed metal - HT-100 - eared metal - HT-100 - keyed metal - HT-100 - eared metal - HT-100 - keyed metal - tension spring.
Check all the eared metal washers are slotted into the main gear properly.
Rigging is another discussion - there are lots of options here, depending on where and how you're targeting fish. Are you planning to troll mostly? Or live bait?
There's a lot of experience among the members here, so you're definitely in the right place.
Good luck and let us know how you go.
All the best, Justin
PS A full parts list is available here: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn116L.aspx.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Alto Mare · August 30, 2011, 12:57:50 AM

Hello NB,
Justin gave you some great information, as he usually does. I just wanted to add that the metal drag washers are kit # 7c-116, it comes with (3) eared washers and (4) keyed washers. Your reel should have (5) drags configuration, just in case you didn't want to replace them yet, all you need to do is to wipe them on a rag and add some Cal's grease on them . Install them as Justin mentioned, you will only have (2) eared metal washers, just fallow the same pattern. Good luck, Sal

NBStriper · August 30, 2011, 04:03:47 AM

I had read about Cal's grease in some other posts and it's not something you can buy in my area, so I used the grease that came with the reel and very very lightly coated the washers. I'm not sure if that's a big no no or not. Am I better off cleaning the grease off or leaving them as they are now?

I must have been blind before as I just noticed the ears on the washers in the schematic link. I'll take it apart again this week and re-check the order. I definitely don't want my first big fish to spool me or wear out the drag in one run because of error.

wallacewt · August 30, 2011, 05:19:08 AM

where are you?

redsetta · August 30, 2011, 05:23:58 AM

Drag grease must be teflon-based or it'll stick - best to clean it off.
Email Dawn at Smooth Drag for a little pot of Cal's - it's well worth it: http://smoothdrag.com/order.html
Pricing here: http://smoothdrag.com/price.html
Good luck, Justin

NBStriper · September 06, 2011, 09:56:27 PM

I'm in New Brunswick, Canada. I'm going to rip into the 12/0 this week and have another look at those washers and clean them off. As far as teflon based grease, I can get that, just not specifically cal's drag grease. The washers were never originally greased, so in my situation where I might not get around to getting cal's grease, should I just clean them and leave them or try my own teflon based grease/antiseize compound?

redsetta · September 06, 2011, 10:08:57 PM

G'day NB,
There's a number of telfon-based products out there that should do the trick.
If they're carbon fiber, they'll benefit from greasing.
It's not a deal-breaker, though.
If they're the older-style thick fiber (ie asbestos), it's less important (though I still give 'em a light coat).
If you're inclined, you could test both the dry and greased set-ups to get a feel for the difference - nothing like hands-on knowledge...
Good luck, Justin