Some additional maintenance questions specific to use

[Tyler1100]

Hello!

I did some research on the forum but have a few questions remaining.

I am using a penn fathom 40n 2 speed reel for kayak fishing (live bait primarily) and so far have developed the following questions:

1.  From Alans bearing post.  I see that all bearings should be cleaned and greased, then have their shields reinstalled.  The only exception was the spool bearings.  It was stated that the spool will not spin if the spool bearings are greased and therefore it was better to remove the shields, clean out the grease, lube with corrosion x and then install with the shields off, provided that the user pull and relube those
2 spool bearings after each trip.  If I dont require a good free spool, would it be a safer bet to pack those spool bearings with grease so I dont need to open up the reel each time I fish and relube? I'm guessing if Alan likes to install with no shields and apply corrosion block after each trip, it probably leads to a longer life span due to frequent checking of the bearings condition, rather than packing with grease and forgetting about it for an extended period of time? What are your thoughts on this?

2. After washing and drying a conventional reel off, and possibly wiping down with corrosion x (or similar) on an old rag, should I be applying corrosion x to all external Joining surfaces of the reel that water can creep into (anything that rotates, especially on the two speed handle assembly where various parts join together) ? or should I not, in order to keep the corrosion x from breaking down the grease in between those external parts of the reel? (I am aware corrosion x is classified as a penetrant so I want to clarify its proper use with you guys before I apply it in potentially the wrong areas).

3. My last question is, after rinsing off the reel, are you shaking the reel with the spool perpendicular to the ground or parallel to the ground to try and shake out any excess water?

I know my question about the corrosion x may sound overkill but, I want to do everything I possibly can to keep my reel operating, it takes a lot of spray and splashes when fishing off shore in the kayak and I want to keep it from corroding as bad as previous reels I have owned.

[wfjord]

CorrosionX will thin marine grease, but won't break it down. I prefer mixing it with grease (blue Yamaha marine) to get a softer, smoother blend and now use it on most everything with good results, including bearings on some conventionals. Grease or a grease blend will seal the internals better than just a light oil.

I use TSI321 in the bearings of most of my reels.  I tried mixing TSI with marine grease until I noticed the TSI321 was breaking down the grease.

[Keta]

#1.  For flylining live bait freespool is usually a good thing.  For trolling and bottom fishing reels, we fish deep at time and use up to 48oz to keep on the bottom,  I use light grease for all bearings  the rest of my reels get oil in the spool bearings. 

[Gfish]

#3) I yak fish and know what yer talkin bout. The spinners are easy; after rinsing, take off the spool, shake out the rotor and let dry. Every several trips, or so, take the drag apart, dry and regrease.

Conventionals; there should be water in both side-plate areas after fishing/rinsing.  If everything is coated with marine grease, the main problem area I've experienced is underneath the main gear(older Penns). What to do? If everything is grease coated, blow out the head-plate with air after rinsing, take apart every 5-10 trips or so, be sure n' look between the fiber washer and main gear for corrosion.
If I had to do it all over, all my kayak conventionals would be the quick-take-apart side-plate Penn's with bushings(e.g., Jigmaster's) as you can dry them the same as a spinner spool/rotor, and bushings are easy maintenance compared to b.bearings.

The modern reels like your 40n are better in several ways than the oldies, but you godda enjoy doin the maintenance to use one ona yak.

Oh, and WELCOME Tyler!

[Tyler1100]

I will be using a combination of corrosion x and grease for external part lube!

Hey Gfish, thank you for the specifics, I will approach maintenance exactly as you described.
At this point like you mentioned "if you could do it over again" I am still wondering if I should use large spinners such as the slammer III 8500-9500 to cut down on the maintenance time after each trip on kayak. I guess the time saver would be potentially keeping water out of the gearbox and then just having to check the rotor, drag stack and line roller bearing if no water has flooded the gear box. Lmk what your take would be on this? :/ it's a salty world sittin right on the water haha

[Gfish]

Yeah, sounds like a plan. I like at least 2 conventionals for: (1) trollin, (2) power castin. And 2 spinners: (1) light reef castin rig, (2) heavier plug castin set-up for when it's dark out(too easy to get a backlash with a conventional when you can't see the lure about to land). And tomorrow I'mina exercise a PXN60-114H to troll large dead-bait with. The 114H will be the only hassle to do the maintenance on, as the other 2 conventionals have the quick-take-apart system.
You mentioned the line roller bearing, can't forget that on the spinners. I try'n cover all the associated crevices with marine grease after lubin with oil.

[Tyler1100]

I think that I would be better with a quick take down conventional for catching bait, I'm using a spinner but I think dropping 100-180 feet for large mackerel scad May or may not be better with something like a Penn jigmaster? What's your take on this? Pretty much looking for a very high gear ratio but quick to tear down?

One other thing was regarding the line roller beating on the spinner, do you think it's a better bet to pack with grease or leave open like Alan does on the spool bearings and live with CX after each trip?

Since there's so much salt working down in that rollerbearing area I'm debating what would offer the max protection.

[Gfish]

Yeah, maybe a HS 505 or 506 Jigmaster(5:1 gear ratio), and has the quick removable head-plate.

I oil my line rollers on a spinner, then try'n get marine grease to cover possible egress areas on the outside, such as the lube port on my Shimano Stratic. The Stratic's line roller bearing is rather complicated(lots a parts) and best not disassembled too often.

[Tyler1100]

Ok I am breaking down some of the ball bearings and skipped the roller bearing for now.  If I have pressed in metal shields,, is it ok for me to take them off (per alans tutorial) and discard them as they are now damaged, and just pack with grease and install open?  Or should I try to pack them with alans bearing packer (shields on) ? By doing this I cant clean out the bearing before greasing up.. ;(
Is it a common thing to remove shields, pack with grease and reinstall open?

[Tiddlerbasher]

For conventionals, where freespool is important, I lube the spool bearings with TSI321 (and shields removed). All other bearings get grease (no shields again). If there is an ARB it gets CX or TSI321 - I find that grease will make many (most) ARBs slip. If it's a trolling/bottom reel grease for everything.
For spinners grease for everything, except ARBs (CX or TSI321). TSI321 for the bail arm bearing. For Shimano spinners I try to use CX - BUT it may be just me but I have found that the ARB can still slip with any light oil
I now only use one grease for everything (including drags all of which will be cf). It is a British formulated synthetic grease with Teflon - Teflube2 - from these people:
https://www.smithandallan.com/products/industrial-grease/4640-smith-and-allan-teflube-plus-2-grease/
It's been working well as a universal grease. Any marine grease is better than none

[Tyler1100]

Happy New Year Tiddlerbasher!

1. I have added that grease to my supply spreadsheet and will try it out!

2. Since I am dropping rigs to the bottom and trolling live bait, I guess im gonna grease everything and possibly leave shields off.  Have you found less corrosion issues in conventionals by packing bearings with grease and leaving shields off? I assume the ability for the water to escape out weighs the corrosion problems that can occur if water is trapped within the bearing via a shield, even though it is packed with grease to start with?

3.  I am still debating whether I should buy conventionals to add to my kayak fishing kit, or stick with spinners.  Mainly this is a debate regarding the amount of time it takes to service each one.  Per the previous posts in this thread I have determined that for a conventional I have to:


a. remove side plate and grease spool bearings after each trip
b. after several trips, check drag washer and main gear for salt intrusion/corrosion and clean/lube appropriately.
c.  fully disassemble every couple of months (If going once a week), so maybe about 10 trips here.

I have had some interest in the high speed avets (single speeds) because they appear to be build quite rugged and not have too many parts, working on these looks quicker than many other reels I have researched.  any opinions on a lever drag that is durable and wont experience excessive wear issues (fasteners etc) with regular disassembly and maintenance?