Graphite Spool Recondition

[jtwill98]

A friend was asking me how to recondition a graphite spool.  I don't have any experience and thought someone here might have or at least have an idea on the subject matter. 

On cursory discovery, I didn't find any articles online

The item pictured was one I found online which shows a graphite spool that looks to be as one that could be cleaned up.

My initial thought, is perhaps a light sanding or wipe down with 0000 steel wool, then maybe an application of epoxy clearcoat. 

[foakes]

Don't sand it down, or use steel wool on it, John —-

You guys are not going to believe me...

And most of you will laugh at this, but maybe only until you try it yourself.

This is the most effective, simplest,quickest, cheapest, and longest-lasting I have found.  And I have used many, many products.  Discovered this by accident.

Wash it with WARM water and an old soft toothbrush.

Dry it with a hair dryer set on warm.

Using a cheap flux brush from HF —- liberally "paint and cover" the spool with WRL191S Synthetic Oil.

Let it set in a peanut butter lid overnight.

Wipe it off in the morning with a clean microfiber cloth.

This does a good job of bringing the spool back to near new, stays on, penetrates, and protects.

Dead-simple, solid results.

WRL191S is used for HD cables where there is significant salt-water, cold temps, and rough conditions.

It penetrates into cable, rubber, synthetics, plastics —-

It is used by mining and dredging outfits, train firms, HD equipment lubrication, the Military, Crane operations, oil-drilling rigs, and many others.

Best, Fred

[jtwill98]

@Fred, Is this the same oil? https://www.jaymors.com/products/jaymor-s-1-gallon-container

It doesn't look like they have anything smaller for sale.  Also, strange that they compare it to WD40.

Is there something else comparable like Corrosion-X?

I'll pass along your advice.

[foakes]

I think it also comes in an aerosol spray can for around $15.

But I just have always used the gallon cans for the last 25 years.

I always have a small vat handy on the bench to drop bearings into, brush parts, plus a needle oiler always at hand.

Until one actually tries it out —- it seems pretty equal to any of 1,000 other oils on the market.

Most guys don't need this much oil —- and are not willing to spend the $$$ (I don't blame them).  But a little goes a long way.  And it works better than anything I have used.

Best, Fred

[jgp12000]

I was servicing a Dolphin levelwind with dull blue side plates 2 years ago.I inadvertantly got synthetic Lucas reel oil on a part of a sideplate,it made it look new.So I polished the oil into both plates entirely with a micro fiber cloth,2 years later the blue still looks new.I will try
the oil Fred recommended as well sounds like good stuff.

[OhReely]

You might try an automotive product named Back to Black.

[foakes]

Back-to-Black has worked pretty well for me —- but generally needs to be reapplied after a couple of months.

It is great on rubber, vinyl, and plastics that are not hard or rigid.

I think the issue with graphite is that it is a much harder material that will accept surface products pretty well —- but it is a material that doesn't easily allow a product to penetrate below the surface too much.

I've used at least 10 products over the years —-

B2B, Black Magic, other restorer products from auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, Ace, even Penetrol.

That is why I was blown away when some of the WRL191S Synthetic Oil got onto a graphite spool —- for just a few minutes.  So I wiped it off with a microfiber cloth —- and was surprised that it did not need a reapplication after 6 months —- and looked great.

Like I sez —- you won't believe it until you try it.

I didn't ever expect it!

Best, Fred

[jtwill98]

Like I sez —- you won't believe it until you try it.

Their sales model and website makes it too difficult and expensive to buy. 

First the site makes it so difficult to buy with erroneous error messages -- "Empty solution not allowed".

Then the cost for shipping ($23.95) an aerosol can and oil pen costs more than the 2 cart items ($21.50). 

The product is no longer available on Amazon nor Ace hardware and their only sales tool is the website or phone call.  It just seems like they don't want the business.  &

[JasonGotaProblem]

Fred you oughta start re-selling the stuff by the 2oz bottle. It's a business model that requires only a funnel and a dream.

[foakes]

Got the funnel, got the dream, don't have the time.

Plus, I would probably just end up giving the stuff away, anyway —- to whomever wanted some — since I enjoy helping our member folks, and will continue to do so.

And I have found out that many people don't value free stuff as much as the stuff they pay at least a little bit for.  This is not true with our members — but with the general public, it seems to be.

Just human nature, I suppose.

Go figure.

Best, Fred

[jurelometer]

A quick note on "graphite" and UV damage: Parts identified as "graphite" on fishing reels and reel seats are actually nylon (probably nylon 6/6) with chopped carbon (AKA graphite) fibers mixed in to increase the stiffness.  Nylon has poor UV resistance, so carbon black (fine carbon powder) is added. Carbon black is a cheap and effective UV damage inhibitor.  This is why these so-called graphite parts are always black or more often dark grey (grey hides UV degradation better).

This UV protection is not complete.  UV damage to nylon will be noticeable by yellowing and a chalky surface.  The yellowing is not too visible on grey/black parts- but the chalking can still be seen.

This damage is irreversible and permanent, changing the molecular structure of the damaged nylon.  But the effect may be mostly cosmetic if there is only surface degradation.

Products like Jaymor's/WRL may address the cosmetic issue - can't think of a better resource than Fred on which products to try.

Nylon can be painted and dyed with the right products. Paint probably won't be hard enough for something like a spinning reel spool lip.  Not sure if the dye will take evenly and be black enough on degraded nylon.  As with any restoration, there is always a risk that refinishing worn parts will lead to a less satisfying appearance.

In terms of actually protecting the part from further UV damage, I would look into  products designed for this purpose- maybe something like Aerospace 333.  Not sure if it works well on nylon, but these create a protective matte coating that reflects some  UV light.  I'll shoot the manufacturer a product info request and post if I get a reply.

For folks that collect reels, it might be worth considering to keep display reels with graphite parts protected from daylight exposure.  A glass window cuts down on UV penetration, but does not provide complete protection. Might get some chalking over enough years, especially in a sunny room.


The usual disclaimer: Not an expert on this subject by any means, just did a bit of research when training on injection molding at a local maker space. Learned enough to decide that I did not want to make injection molded nylon parts

-J