calcutta 400a

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:55:24 PM

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alantani

if i did a survey of favorite reels among northern california saltwater fisherman, i think the old "A" series shimano calcutta 400 would top the list.   alot of guys have this reel, and everyone that has one loves it.  here's a link to the schematics. 

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20ct400.pdf
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20CT400S.pdf


and here's the topless 400 S.



first off comes the handle nut plate screw (key #795), the handle nut plate (key # 1692), and the handle nut (key #1693).



next comes the handle assembly (key #1694) and the friction washer (key #799).  note the corrosion around the handle.  this is a common finding. 



remove the star drag (key#2002), the star drag spacer (key #1289), the two thinner drag spring washer (L)'s (key #1613), and the two thicker drag spring washer (B)'s (key #1455).



back out the two right side plate bolts (key #1698) and remove the right side plate assembly.



spread everything out.



lube the left side plate bearing (key #194) with corrosion x.



here's a slick little modification.  the plastic bushing that you see here can actually be replaced by a bearing.  the dimensions on the bearing/bushing are 5mm id x 11mm od x 3mm ht and the bocabearings.com part # is SMR 685.  there's no specific need to replace the bushing.  i think it's just slick to have that option.





remove the two right side plate screws (key #1616).



lift off the right side plate (key #2043).



here's the entire gear cluster, cleaned up and spread out.  the replacement penn h-100 drag washers are in the foreground.  the first penn drag washer (going left to right) is a penn #6-965 that has been cut from 24mm down to 19mm, the second one is a #6B-965, the the next two are full sized #6-965's. 





slap a coat of shimano or cal's drag grease on the drag washers and rebuild the stack. 



there is one small trick with this reel.  the ht-100 drag washers are thicker than the stock dartaniums.  to get this to work, you have to alter the eared washer (key #1620).  bend the ears down at a 45 degree angle so that it will catch the main gear. 



here's the completed drag stack.



paint a little grease on the inside of the right side plate cover.



lube the right side plate bearing (key #194) with corrosion x.



the right side plate should snap cleanly over the bridge assembly.  install the two right side plate screws (key #1616).



grease the frame screw holes.



note the position of the clutch plate (key #1631).  this is the "up" position and the side plate is now "in gear."



push the clutch plate "down" so that it is now "out of gear."



note the position of the clutch bar (key #1723) now in the down position.



push it up.



ok, NOW you can put the side plate back on the reel!  tighten down the right side plate bolts, using good mechanical judgement.  too little and they will back out on you.  too much and you can snap them right off. 



install the belleville's (key #1455 and 1613) and washer (key #1289) in a "()()|" orientation. 



install the star drag (key #2002) and friction washer (key #799).  add a little grease.



install the handle assembly (key #1694) and the handle nut (key #1693).  add a little more grease.



install the handle nut plate (key #1692) and handle nut plate screw (key #795), wipe off the excess grease and you're done!



now a few comments. 

regarding the drag washers, i realize that there are some that wish to use the stock dartanium drag washers.  that's fine.  if they get sticky, simply pull them out, clean them off, grease them and reinstall them.  just make sure you work on a hard surface.  the dartanium drag washers are as brittle as tortilla chips and will snap if you try to clean them on a soft towel.  if you like carbon fiber but prefer your carbon fiber dry, that's fine, too.  hopefully there will be a carbontex upgrade available someday.  so anything you want to do is fine.  it's still my preference to use grease and carbon fiber. 

you may have noted that i did not go to any special effort to clean or open up the bearings of this reel.  i simply lubed them.  i tend to do that with smaller bearings.  it's the larger bearings in the lever drag reels that cause the most trouble.  i have found that the smaller bearings in the star drag reels tend to be less problematic. 

lastly, a word about the anti-reverse roller clutch bearing (key #1207).  i keep ten of them in inventory, and they're $10 each.  i have noted that they are installed dry from the factory.  i've had a fair number of them come in rusted.  you'll know that you have a problem when the handle spins backwards.  but this is a tough one.  the rollers inside this roller bearing are plain steel, not stainless steel.  if you install them dry, they will rust.  if you load them up with grease, they slip under a heavy load.  what to do?  well, i've decided to apply a light coat of teflon drag grease to the roller clutch inner tube (key #1206) and a little extra to the inside of the bearing itself.  i also sometimes apply grease to the top of the roller bearing assembly before installing the drag star.   

the new "B" series calcuttas addressed this problem with the roller bearing by adding an ambassaduer style anti-reverse dog lever.  for these old "A" series reels, what should be most helpful is to avoid heavy loads!  a surge from sticky drag can suddenly increase (maybe double) your functional drag setting.  greased carbon fiber drags will help in this regard.  and if you hang up in the rocks, don't button down on the drags until something gives.  if you're spooled up with 30 pound spectra, it might not be the knot that gives first!  keep a 6 inch section of broomstick with a double layer of electrical tape on deck somewhere to wrap the spectra around, then pull with the stick, not the reel.  this should keep the anti-reverse roller bearing from failing prematurely.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

QuoteAlan, I took apart my 400B and am having trouble removing the drag plate off of the main gear. I'm assuming there is a burr on the main gear but the space might be too tight to do anything? Any suggestions you can throw me will help. Thanks Alan!!

yes, there is a burr on the drive shaft.  you can try three things.  first, try to pick out all of the metal and carbon drag washers, then try to file down the burrs on the drive shaft.  these burrs are from the two keyed metal washers.  second, hold the main gear in your left hand and tap the top of the drive shaft (carefully) with a plastic or wooden dowel to bang it out.  third, remove the c-clip holding the drive shaft onto the base plate, then you can flip the assembly over, push down firmly on the main gear and get it popped out easily.  can you let me know how it goes?  thanks!  alan



send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

coores14

hey Alan, I'm currently servicing a 400 for a friend of mine. Right off the bat, I can't get the spool shaft out of the right side plate bearing. I can tap the shaft down until it sits flush with the bearing, but I can't pull it past that.  The shaft should basically just slide out of the bearing, correct? 
I've tried a small punch centered on the end of the shaft, but it isn't getting me anywhere.  Am I missing something or is there just a bunch of rust or something holding the spool shaft in?


p.s.-- did you get those c-clips that I sent back to you?

Fishnmike

For what its worth, I just completed a drag upgrade on a Calcutta 700a and the procedures were the same with the exception of on extra side plate bolt and one extra drag washer.  This site is great!

Mike

JGB

The spool shaft end may be flared a bit. Slide the bearing back and gently file around the end of the shaft. Try to remove the bearing.
Repeat if necessary. It does not take much to flare the edge of the end of the shaft. Tapping it down will cause this if not done very carefully.
Jim N.

alantani

#5
Quote from: coores14 on March 28, 2012, 11:26:26 PM
hey Alan, I'm currently servicing a 400 for a friend of mine. Right off the bat, I can't get the spool shaft out of the right side plate bearing. I can tap the shaft down until it sits flush with the bearing, but I can't pull it past that.  The shaft should basically just slide out of the bearing, correct?  
I've tried a small punch centered on the end of the shaft, but it isn't getting me anywhere.  Am I missing something or is there just a bunch of rust or something holding the spool shaft in?


p.s.-- did you get those c-clips that I sent back to you?

yes, got 'em!  the spool shaft is either flared at the end or just rusted, or both.  tap it out and you should be fine.  don't forget your avatar! 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

Quote from: Fishnmike on March 30, 2012, 03:27:33 PM
For what its worth, I just completed a drag upgrade on a Calcutta 700a and the procedures were the same with the exception of on extra side plate bolt and one extra drag washer.  This site is great!

Mike

glad everything worked.  i sometimes worry that these tutorials will just get guys farther into their reels before they get stuck. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Fishnmike

Its really not that difficult if your a little bit mechanically inclined. The tutorials are helpful because they show you what you need to replace/repair versus what's not all that critical.

boogie

Hello. i have a old calcutta 400 that need the right side plate, shimano doesent make then anny more, isther another model sideplate that fit that its still abailable?, thanks
saludos.

alantani

from everything i've ever seen, i think that side plate is unique.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

boogie

thanks, thers one  for around 19.00 , i think im gona go for that

markbc

Hi Alan,

That is a great tutorial, I just finished doing mine and It's smoother than ever. I also have a Corsair CS400A, would this be pretty much the same?

Thanks,

Mark

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Ken_D

Hi, Alan.....(or any familiar).. Which are the thicker bellevilles..the 1455's or the 1613's.  and what happens if one puts them in different but still ()().    Thanks, Ken

Propster

The 1613 are the light and 1455 are the heavy. Technically it does not matter the order, but I prefer to put the lighter on top, closer to the handle.