Tiburon SST 6/50 Smart Shift 2-Speed

Started by reelspeedsouth, November 25, 2011, 07:39:19 PM

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reelspeedsouth

Got a chance to put together my first tutorial and thought I would share it with everyone.

Some guys have asked for a tutorial on Tiburon Reels, so I am going to perform one on a Tiburon SST6/50 Smart-Shift 2-Speed Reel brought in by a customer.

So lets get to it...

First, a couple pictures of the reel...





Let's start by removing the 4 phillips scews that hold on the left side plate




Remove the spool





Lets set the spool to the side and go ahead and remove the right side plate, by unscrewing the four Philips head screws on top.





Remove the stainless steel lug blank.



Remove the two Philips screws and remove the gear cover.




Now lets move to the reel foot.  Remove the two Phillips screws and slide the foot out of the slot.  The slot have a dovetail pattern to hold the foot it.  These are very strong and do not require the same about of screws as normal clamps.





Now lets remove the clamp screws.  Use a 3/32 hex bit or you can use a wrench to remove the nuts.  Watch for corrosion as these tend to get locked up by salt.




Lets grease the slot for the foot as well as the holes for the clamp screws.  Make sure you put some grease around the holes where the washer sits to protect from saltwater creeping in.



Lets slide the foot back in and grease the screw holes.





Grease the clamp screws.



And that part is done:



Lets grease the area on the frame under the gear cover and screw it back on.




Now the frame is finished.
Lets move to the right side plate.  Remove the handle lock Philips screw.



Remove the handle screw..standard penn wrench will fit.



Remove the handle




Unscrew the star to remove the square sleeve.



Remove the rest of the washers in the star assembly.  Note the Belleville washers which should be arranged like this: ( )



You should be able to push the gear assembly out at this point.  Lets just set it to the side and we will get to that later.





Lets keep going on the right side plate.  Remove the three Philips screws holding on the drag lever cover.





Remove the drag lever



Lets disassemble the drag lever.  There was a bit of rust inside the bearing cup..we will make sure to properly grease this when we reassemble.




Remove the drag lever bushing.



Now lets remove the handle shaft bearings.  This can be pretty tricky as these will tend to rust and are very tightly fit.  I use a 3/8" nut driver, which fits perfectly inside the hole on the side plate, and lightly pound out the bearings.




Now lets clean off the inside of the right side plate and re-grease with your favorite marine grease.



Lets go back to the handle shaft bearings...lets pick off the shields, pack with marine grease and put the shields back on.





Put the bearings back into the sideplate.  Get the first bearing started into the hole, then put the spacer in and use the nut driver to push the bearing back into place.



Put the drag lever bushing back into place




Now lets move to the drag lever assembly

Grease the topside of the drag lever



Grease the bearing cup slots and install into drag lever along with the washer on top.




Grease the inside of the bearing cup



Now lets remove the bearing shields on the pinion bearing and pack with marine grease. I use a razor blade to pry the shield up.  Stick the edge on the inside and pry outwards.





Put the bearing back into the bearing cup



Replace the pinion sleeve



Grease the inside of the drag lever cover and reinstall.  Grease the screw holes and install the Philips screws.




Now lets move to the gear stack.  The design behind this is very smart.  You have a couple of drag washers that keep you in first gear and depending on where you set the star on top of the reel, the gear will slip at a point and shift into the lower gear...then when the pressure on the line decreases, then drag washer will grab again and start to use the high gear.  Pretty slick.

Here is a breakdown of the components, going from right to left...Anti-Reverse gear, Drag washer, High Gear, Drag Washer, Drag Plate, Spring assembly, Low gear.



Lets grease the low gear and the spring assembly




Grease the drag washer with Cals




Install drag plate



Grease the other Drag washer



Install on bottom of anti-reverse gear



And here is the completed stack




Now lets go ahead and install the gear into the sideplate.  Grease the shaft with marine grease. 



The tricky part here is the anti-reverse dogs...You need to press down on the gear stack while using a pick or small screwdriver to push the dogs back.  You should feel the stack click down once it seats properly, as well as seeing and hearing the dogs working.



Now lets move to the top side of the handle assembly.  Grease the area where the washers and springs go.



First washer down is the Teflon washer.



Then the Double-D shaped (_) metal washer.



Then the two Belleville Washers, arranged like this: ( )  Good idea to grease these as well.




Then the Teflon and metal washer



Grease the inside of the Star



Screw down onto shaft, grease and install the Teflon washer



Grease and install the square sleeve



Install the handle



Grease and install the handle screw and lock screw.



Now, if you want to lube the handle, you need a 1/8" hex bit to remove the screw...this is the easy part.  Once you have it off you can spray some lube inside the handle shaft and put some grease down the screw hole. 

The fun part is trying to install the handle back on.  There is a little set screw on top of the handle (sorry, I forgot to snap a picture), just insert a small screwdriver or punch into the hole and push the inner handle shaft out.  Line the square profile on end of the shaft with the square profile that is on the handle arm.  This should allow you to install the screw underneath.





Now lets move to the spool assembly

Remove the flat spring clip with a small screwdriver



Remove the plastic clicker plate on the left side of the spool




Use a screwdriver to remove the E-Clip on the left side of the spool shaft.



Now you can remove the spool shaft assembly.  Order from left to right – E-Clip, Belleville Washers ( ) ( ), left spool bearing, Right Spool Bearing, Drag plate spring, Drag Plate Bearing, Drag Plate, Pinion Gear






We will take the spool bearings and pry off the shields and completely clean with degreaser and carb cleaner and re-lube with your favorite speed lube.



Now remove the drag plate bearing and pry off the shield that faces up and pack with cals grease.



Now to the spool...There is a small cutout to use a very small flathead screwdriver to pry up the drag washer.  Lets clean the top of the spool off and put a nice coat of cals grease on the top of the spool.




Now install the drag washer and grease with Cal's grease, then wipe it clean so there is only grease down in the pores.




Re-assemble the spool shaft and insert into the spool and install final e-clip at the end.  Then lightly grease the clicker attachment and install on left side of spool.



Grease the screwholes, but be careful how much you use so it does not squeeze down into the bearing and ruin the work you put in there.



Flip the spool to the right side and install the watershield and the flat spring clip




Now the spool is finished...Lastly, we will finish up the left side plate.  Unscrew the drag knob from the left side plate and grease.



Remove the clicker assembly



Grease the inside of the left sideplate and install the clicker assembly and drag knob.




Now we will finish up putting the frame together.  Grease the area for the harness blank.



Install the right sideplate, grease the screwholes and install the four long Philips screws.



Insert spool and install the left side plate.  Grease the screwholes and install the four Philips screws.




And we are finished!






A couple of notes about this reel...This is a very interesting design.  Pretty simple to use, just turn the star on top to set the amount of force it takes to engage the lower gear.  Back it off for the low gear to engage with a small about of tension or button it down to only engage when you are really getting worked.  You set the amount of actual drag with the knob on the left side plate, which is a little different than most    reels, which have the adjustment on the right side plate.  Good job on the carbon fiber drag washer.  I already noticed some salt intrusion on the reel, as the prior greasing job was marginal.  That should be fixed now.  These have a very nice size Tiburon handle, which is very comfortable.  Overall, this looks like a very nice reel...and a very ingenious way of switching to a second speed while fighting a fish.

- Lou

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

wallacewt

you learn something new with every tutorial,thanks

Alto Mare

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Alto Mare

Quote from: wallacewt on November 25, 2011, 11:49:38 PM
you learn something new with every tutorial,thanks
Isn't that great? Just try to stay away from the day that you won't learn anymore ;).
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

kamuwela

thanks from all of us, we always welcome new tutoriol's. that is great work there.
                                                 aloha
                                                 kamu

reelspeedsouth

#6
Hey thanks guys!  Just wanted to give my son Aaron credit here for the great shots using the canon camera. Some of you might know him from other previous posts on reel service.  We both do reels. I mostly do coastal Texas reels, bass and bass pro reels, star drags etc.  But I lived in California for 52 years and was an avid salt water fisherman and used to trick out Newell's and Penn reels, even did a 4/0's with a side plate drilled out so the drags could be serviced while out on a trip, as well as tricked out 49', 3/0 with newel 5:1 gears, old Magforce Penn reels tricked for bait fishing on the boat, most all the salt water reels back in the day. So thanks to Aaron's oversight, this reel had not been posted and we thought a good tutorial on this puppy would be an excellent candidate.  I hope to post on some of the other higher end spinning reels and coastal star drag reels in the near future.  Cheers!!  

Nessie Hunter

"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intentions of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body. But rather to slide in sideways, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! WHAT A RIDE!

Paleoreelist

The best day to go fishing is any day that ends in a Y.

redsetta

Great work Lou - an excellent tutorial and a cracker little reel.
Love the design. Another one for my wishlist...
The two-speed mechanism is reminiscent of Abu's 6500 C3, but far more robust.
Cheers, Justin
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

Brendan


turboal

really like this post. I have 2 auto shift reel  still in their boxs. their bigger ones
but come apart the same. I will go over them if i ever decide to use them.
this post will really be a big help. I was scared to work om them fearing i would
screw something up.but Alan makes it look easy.

saltydog

Remember...."The soldier above all other people prays for peace, for he
must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war!" Douglas
MacArthur

Mac53

I was very close to purchasing two of these reels but they are not going to be manufactured anymore.  Really good engineering but not enough market share to be sustained.  To bad!

Bryan Young

Quote from: Mac53 on September 22, 2013, 04:31:10 PM
I was very close to purchasing two of these reels but they are not going to be manufactured anymore.  Really good engineering but not enough market share to be sustained.  To bad!
I would love to be able to pick these reels up on the cheap if they will be available for cheap.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D