Sage Spectrum reels color code?

[Jon_Kol]

Hi guys!

This is probably a strange question, but do you think that there is any way of finding out the color code of the Gold Lime color, in the Sage Spectrum reel range? I just got hold of such a reel, and it has a small dent where the paint has chipped a bit, and I was hoping to touch it up with the exact same color.

I've written Sage, but probably it's information of a kind that they don't give out.

Worst case, I'll have to try and find a water proof maker pen with a gold touch to it 😅

[jurelometer]

Looks like the reel is anodized. So there is not a specific color code as with paint.  The anodized parts are dipped in dye before sealing, and the level of porosity from anodizing and amount of dye locked into the pores affects the final color.  Anodized parts can have color variation between batches, which is something that folk with those shiny gold big game reels complain about when they have to replace a frame or spool.

The good news is that aluminum is self healing, so you already have an aluminum oxide layer there.  Painting can produce a greater corrosion risk, as it creates an oxygen deprived environment under the paint where corrosion can progress without a new aluminum oxide layer forming.

I just learned to appreciate the battle scars.

-J

[nelz]

The good news is that aluminum is self healing, so you already have an aluminum oxide layer there.

Sorry to go a bit off topic here but I must ask...

Mr. Jurelometer, your statement about aluminum has brought a concern to my mind. You see, I installed a aluminum sacrificial rod into my water heater to replace the magnesium one that had disolved away totally. So are you saying that once the aluminum oxide layer has formed that it halts further corrosion? Because if that is indeed the case with the sacrificial rod, then the rod stops serving its intended purpose after it becomes covered in a layer of oxide, and so the water heater in effect no longer has a sacrificial rod.

Should I be concerned or is there something different at work in water heaters? I know you are the right guy to ask. 

[OhReely]

I would take the reel to a paint store that sells automotive paints, see if they can match it to a car finish. Maybe you can get a touch up paint that's close. Or maybe they can scan it and mix something for you. I looked at a Sage Spectrum pictue in what I think is the color you have. Looks like a color I've seen on some late model Kia cars. Or maybe an acrylic nail polish or model paint. So what if you have to touch it up periodically. Eventually it won't matter.

[jurelometer]

The good news is that aluminum is self healing, so you already have an aluminum oxide layer there.

Sorry to go a bit off topic here but I must ask...

Mr. Jurelometer, your statement about aluminum has brought a concern to my mind. You see, I installed a aluminum sacrificial rod into my water heater to replace the magnesium one that had disolved away totally. So are you saying that once the aluminum oxide layer has formed that it halts further corrosion? Because if that is indeed the case with the sacrificial rod, then the rod stops serving its intended purpose after it becomes covered in a layer of oxide, and so the water heater in effect no longer has a sacrificial rod.

Should I be concerned or is there something different at work in water heaters? I know you are the right guy to ask. 

Not really the right guy this time.  I have no experience in sacrificial anodes.  But that won't stop me from taking a swing at it.

First of all, if the manufacturer recommends aluminum anode rods for their water heaters with your type of water hardness, I would not sweat it too much.  And it seems that aluminum is a common material for these. 

Now on to the speculation.

Aluminum oxide inhibits corrosion, it does not entirely prevent it.  And different types of corrosion have different mechanisms.

In a water heater you have metal tank and water with some  naturally occurring chlorides in it ( sodium chloride, calcium chloride), which is a mild electrolyte solution.  Some of the chlorides get left behind as a result of the heating process, which probably strengthens the electrolyte solution effect.  The water temp may affect this too.  Dunno.

Galvanic corrosion is a specific type of corrosion that requires two dissimilar metals and an electrolyte solution.  Metal ions migrate mostly from the less noble metal to the more noble metal, causing the less noble metal to corrode more quickly.  The farther the two metals are on the galvanic series table, the more quickly the less noble metal corrodes.

In the case of a water heater without a sacrificial anode, the dissimilar metals would be the tank and any pipes/fittings.  But add a sacrificial anode that is less noble than either and it will take over most of the corroding.

Magnesium is less noble than aluminum, so a magnesium  rod will theoretically protect your tank better while it lasts, but if so, it will need to be replaced more frequently than aluminum.  Manufacturers probably have some recommendations on if/when to use which one.  It probably is affected by the tank/pipe/fitting metals, how hard the local water is, and whether or not you use a water softener.  A local plumber might also know what the best choice is in your area.

If you find something out from the pros,let us know!

Here is a nice write-up with more than most of us care to know on galvanic corrosion:

https://www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/568/galvanic-corrosion

-J

[oldmanjoe]

The good news is that aluminum is self healing, so you already have an aluminum oxide layer there.

Sorry to go a bit off topic here but I must ask...

Mr. Jurelometer, your statement about aluminum has brought a concern to my mind. You see, I installed a aluminum sacrificial rod into my water heater to replace the magnesium one that had disolved away totally. So are you saying that once the aluminum oxide layer has formed that it halts further corrosion? Because if that is indeed the case with the sacrificial rod, then the rod stops serving its intended purpose after it becomes covered in a layer of oxide, and so the water heater in effect no longer has a sacrificial rod.

Should I be concerned or is there something different at work in water heaters? I know you are the right guy to ask. 

Hot water heater Anode  , there is several kinds ...
https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-types-of-water-heater-anode-rods-explained
 

[jurelometer]

Hot water heater Anode  , there is several kinds ...
https://www.doityourself.com/stry/5-types-of-water-heater-anode-rods-explained
 

I have no expertise in water heater anodes, which gives me something in common with both the author and reviewer listed for that article.  The list of anode types is useful, but I would look somewhere else for accurate advice.

Saw that there is a new  type that can be used for replacement:  electrical.  Might be worth looking into.

OP:  My apologies for contributing  to taking this off topic.  I just got too excited about the sciencing part.

-J

[nelz]

From an article in the Corro-Protec website:

"Magnesium rods are ideal for newer water heaters and those in areas with soft water. Aluminum rods are better suited for older water heaters or areas with hard water, where their durability can be more advantageous. Understanding the compatibility of water heater anode rod aluminum vs magnesium is crucial for optimal performance."

Pretty sure my H2O is on the hard side and the heater is way "passed it".