Ambassadeur centrifugal brake help needed.

Started by Matt.T, September 02, 2020, 07:53:02 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

nelz

#15
Hmm... interesting mystery!  ???

Do you have any of those brake blocks from the older Abu's? They are made of what looks like reinforced resin, maybe fiberglass. In the photo, yours looks like plain soft plastic. Perhaps your casting is too extreme for it? I'm betting those old resin blocks can take the heat much better.

Here's a sample pic (I got off the web) of the old style blocs:

Brewcrafter

Matt - I'm going to be theoretical here.  Clearly some components are no longer playing "nice" together, even after you replaced them with new replacements.  So, in no particular order:
1.  Have you tried using both of the brake blocks instead of just a single?  I am thinking that single brake block pad is just trying to do too much work (dissipate too much energy) than what it was designed for, and by distributing the load over 2 pads that they may survive better/do a better job.
2.  Your bearing swap.  Did the addition of the Ceramic hybrids substantially reduce friction?  I am sure you spun the spool and hopefully even timed it to see what kind of improvement you netted.  Here is the path I'm going down - admittedly theoretical: If you were to have a manual transmission car (remember those?) and kick it into neutral every time you approached a stop sign - you would burn out the brakes pretty quickly even under normal driving conditions - because the rest of the system (engine compression, driveline friction) is not working to slow the car down.  I wonder if your bearing install (and presumably hi-tech lubricants as well?) so reduced the parasitic friction losses on the spool rotation that the ability of the brake blocks to manage the energy of the spool has been exceeded?  Admittedly, this is purely theoretical but since you replaced the affected components with new replacements and seem to be having the same issue... - john

Matt_Tuers

Yeah, that's all I can come up with at this point too: higher RPMs than even the heat-resistant nylon blocks were meant to handle.

tincanary

#18
Get a pair of Abu part# 22565 and the accommodating clutch washer part# 22567.  The clutch washer for the nylon blocks is a little different than the washer used for the Bakelite blocks.  You can use 22567 with nylon blocks but they won't snap into place.  Conversely, you can't use the original clutch washer with the Bakelite blocks since the legs of the washer are too wide to fit them.  The Bakelite blocks are free floating.  Buy a couple of pairs because they tend to slide off into the oblivion when you remove the crank side assembly.  It's the same clutch washer and brake blocks as found on the 4500/5500/6500CS Rocket reels.

Tiddlerbasher

I have an Akios 551 Shuttle - bought in 2012. I regularly used it for UK beach casting (but not for a while :()
Ceramic hybrid bearings from new everything oiled with TSI.
I just cracked it open - no wear on anything. It has spent most of it's working life chucking 5oz of lead 150yds plus (on a good day :))
I don't think 'normal wear and tear' is the cause of your problem. I think something else is going on.

mhc

#20
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on September 10, 2020, 10:18:34 AM
I don't think 'normal wear and tear' is the cause of your problem. I think something else is going on.
I agree with Chris, something is out of whack. I would be very surprised if there was enough centrifugal force on those blocks to cause the damage you are seeing. Looking at the one photo showing a damaged block, it appears to be worn at an angle as though it is being wedged against the brake drum while the reel is retrieving line (when there would be enough force to cause damage). Maybe the brake block can slide out too far, enough to tilt but not enough to fall off the 'washer leg' and then not retract after the cast? Are the new blocks, clutch washer and brake plate all matching parts? I'm guessing here, but brake blocks should last for ages under normal use. Like nelz said - Interesting mystery.

Mike
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

oc1

Quote from: Matt.T on September 09, 2020, 12:52:07 PM
Steve: I took the clip off for that photo, but it's the one I fashioned myself and holds the washer in nice and snug. What are you thinking when you say the fit of that ring could be the problem?
If the circle clip is not right then the whole thing will wobble.  I have never been able to make or repair a circle clip with much success.  Once it is removed, it may never fit correctly again because the diameter has changed.  If you try to massage the diameter back it will not be perfectly round.  Best to just replace it with a new one every time it is removed.  I think the problem began with and remains a distorted circle clip.
-s

tincanary

Quote from: oc1 on September 10, 2020, 07:38:28 PM
Quote from: Matt.T on September 09, 2020, 12:52:07 PM
Steve: I took the clip off for that photo, but it's the one I fashioned myself and holds the washer in nice and snug. What are you thinking when you say the fit of that ring could be the problem?
If the circle clip is not right then the whole thing will wobble.  I have never been able to make or repair a circle clip with much success.  Once it is removed, it may never fit correctly again because the diameter has changed.  If you try to massage the diameter back it will not be perfectly round.  Best to just replace it with a new one every time it is removed.  I think the problem began with and remains a distorted circle clip.
-s

I've never had trouble removing and reinstalling the clip.  I use a small screwdriver and pull one end up at a time, holding my finger over it so it don't fly off.  It holds shape well unless you get rough or intentionally bend it out of shape.

redsetta

Forgive the silly question, but I can't see the right-side spool bearing - assume you removed it prior to taking the photo?

Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

Matt.T

redsetta: Yes, the bearing was out in the photo.

I put the factory bearings back in and went back to the same tuning before all this crap started and the block wear persists when casting. Next test: fresh factory circle clip instead of the homemade affair, although the only play in the clutch washer is slight rotation perpendicular to the axis of the spool. After that, ordering some of the old Abu blocks (would bakelite be more wear-resistant than the woven/resin variety?) and matching clutch washer.

I hope this maddening thread helps someone in the future...

oc1

Quote from: Matt.T on September 11, 2020, 01:13:39 AM
(would bakelite be more wear-resistant than the woven/resin variety?)
I thought they were the same thing??
-steve